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  2. Hi Brad, Here's one located in the L.A. area: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/d/gardena-datsun-240z-front-radiator-core/6887611293.html
  3. I bought my dash 2 weeks ago and Hung shipped it that day for me via USPS. USPS lost it for 4 days last week, but it delivered today. Attached are pics of their Gen 2 dash. I'm anxious to get it swapped out and in, but on vacation next week so may be a bit. This dash I got from him was a blem and if you look close on passenger side above the glovebox you can see it. Other than that it looks good. If you want to see something close up, let me know.
  4. I've had good luck looking through the fill and drain plugs at the synchro and coupler sleeve teeth. I think it's third gear. They should be sharp and symmetrical. Rounded teeth is a sign of abuse.
  5. I'm getting ready to go through the suspension on my 71 240Z. I find that OEM strut mount insulators are ~$80.00 https://zcardepot.com/products/strut-mount-upper-insulator-front-rear-oem-240z-260z-280z and after market @ ZCarDepot are $48.00. https://zcardepot.com/products/strut-mount-upper-insulator-front-rear-oem-240z-260z-280z-1 Anybody have experience with the after market ones. The saving on all 4 is like $120.00 for the aftermarket.
  6. Today
  7. It's your money and time. Cheaper than the wrecking yard. Good luck.
  8. Ok. Thanks for the help! I think I might just get the cheapest I can find in hopes that they'll all be the same thing. And worst case scenario, it's only $30.
  9. Just one thing I have noticed when I went down this road is try to make sure the inlet and outlet sizes are correct on the pump or you will need to either change them or get some fittings to go from one hose size to another. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I have a feeling once you get below 100 dollars they are all pretty much the same. They are all made to push roughly the same amount of fuel. Of course this is just a nonscientific feeling. Some people say some are louder than others and some people say they lasted a few months and some last years and are quiet but it’s all just a crapshoot from what I have read. A lot has to do with the angle of the pump and how low it’s mounted and how clean your tank is and how solid the power connections are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. It seems strange that someone would mark May 20 as National Be a Millionaire Day because, frankly, every day would seem like a holiday with that much money. Still, we can dream about how we would spend that kind of … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  12. If you're looking at tires, I noticed that Tirerack.com is offering a $70 cash card for the BFG brand. No affiliation with the site, but, worth mentioning... 😉
  13. Literally the same thing?
  14. $23.50 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. To answer some of your questions directly... The initial mechanical setting of the float level is just to get into the ballpark. The sight glass is the real test. The desired level does depend on the carb design though. What year are you working on? 73 or 74? Can you post a pic or two of the power valves? That's another easy way to know for sure. However, without even seeing the carbs, I suspect the fuel level should be right at the dot in the middle of the window and your level is way too high. Tips for cracking the power valve open? Not really. The gaskets hold tight and can make it difficult to separate the wafer stack. Other than brute force, I don't have any suggestions. And testing the carb off the car? I don't have any way to do that. If it was running great one day, and then the next day it wouldn't start at all, I'm not convinced that it was a carb problem in the beginning. But now that you've opened them up and let the magic out, there might be one now. Did you try starting it by holding your foot down a little on the pedal while you cranked it?
  16. Hi! Welcome to the club! Feel free to start posting and tell your friends!
  17. 7tooZ

    Used 5 speed

    @Dave WM @zedhead thanks for the input. Heading out to look at it.
  18. Can you tell me the difference between these two pumps? https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-pump/products/electric-fuel-pump-fuel-injection-280z-280zx-75-83 https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-pump/products/electric-fuel-pump-fuel-injection-280z-280zx
  19. I guess my question is, how bad is a knock off? I mean can you really screw up a pump that badly? lol I'd hope to get a good life out of a pump by taking care of it. Ya know having the necessary fuel filters before gas reaches the pump.
  20. popping out front is usually due to timing or lean mixture.
  21. Dave WM

    Used 5 speed

    Without opening it up, there is not much you could tell other than is shifts into all gears. Perhaps you could feel a problem by spinning it but I don't know that, just a guess. If you open it up you can examine the gears and check over the bearings. I think the area that would be the most important would be the actual teeth (don't know the correct term) that are on the hubs that actually lock the gears to the shaft. Its this that would most likely be damaged by abuse. Remember the gears are in constant mesh, its the hubs that lock them to the output shaft. If you look a new or undamaged hub and locking ring you could see the wear. the brass parts (anti balk rings IIRC) are easy to get, lots of rebuild kits for those parts. I had a heck of a time finding some of the needle bearing inner races (5th on mine) prob did not need it but was one of those while you are in there things. The tail shaft brass bush was badly worn, and can be sourced, you just need to the long one, most suppliers are a short version, think one company makes the long one and its very nice. the oil for the bush comes from a oil trough feed by a oil catcher that is easy to break off during disassembly, you must come straight up when separating from the adapter plate (the big think steel part in the middle). Rebuilding is not hard, easy really after you have done it once, but it helps a LOT if you have a hyd press. The FSM has lots of talk about fixtures, most of which you can improvise with various steel pipes from a hardware store. Most fiddly bits is the sync assy, the hub/springs/dogs/lock rings and come apart and need to go back the right way. This is compounded by some bad illustrations in some of the FSM's. Keeping all the gears and part in order helps if you decide to go that route, check my videos out at Dave WM. there is also a guy that goes by village land on you tube that shows a complete disassembly with NO press used. As ZH mentioned the biggest tell will be what is stuck to the magnet, if its just some fine metal, no big deal, of you have big chunks then its prob been abused. One of mine had that oil catcher completely intact stuck to the magnet. The output bush was trashed, presume from lack of oil. One last thing, sourcing the large output shaft nut can be a problem, again IIRC early 5 speeds had a conventional nut on the output shaft (CW tight CCW loose), later 5 speeds used a nut that is CCW tight CW to loose. You want to know what you have before trying to remove that, and you want the correct replacement as you should not reuse it.
  22. After fixing the retainer, I did a compression test the result was 1. 150 2. 150 3. 165 4 165 5 145 6. 145 Installed the plugs started the car and ran worse. Missing and popping out the intake. Check the carburetors with the "snail "1-5 pulling the same amount of air, #6 was a little off at 4 . I thought the poor was due to the fact the valves were now set correctly and the compression has risen, I should retuned the carburetors . Now the backfireing louder, at times flames would pop out the front two crabs and backfires out the exhaust, a few times it sounds like gun shot. After all I still have the original problem #6 plug is still wet.
  23. Some pics would be very helpful, how are the rockers, are they in good shape or rusted out? If the rockers are good bracing isn't needed. If the front seat support is good shape you can always just drill out the spot welds holding it to the floor pan but leave it attached to the trans tunnel and the inside rocker, that's lots of support.
  24. Make sure you get your old (unusable) ones back.
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