Great job troubleshooting and yes this will help someone in the future. Any insight to issues fellow Z owners have on this particular topic will definitely help. Thanks for the breakdown.

They/we/me call them banjo bolt filters. If I remember right the ztherapy SU video says not to use them because of what you are going through. They didn't come with the rebuild kit I bought.

Thanks siteunseen. I'll go back and watch the video. Since I was ordering the banjo filters, I also bought this sight glass tool from ZcarDepot because I was never 100% confident that the fuel level was correct using the 9/16 drill bit method and it was only $7.99. If I'm following correctly, with the bowl as full as the floats will let them get, I measure 20 mm down from the top edge of the bowl (below the gasket surface). That seems to add up as the distance between the top of the inside of the bowl lid to the bottom edge of the gasket is approx. 3 mm, so 23 mm minus those 3mm gets me the 20 mm and I do a fine adjustment from there? I have a Gunson Colortune unless there is a more reliable but simple method. It seems like every answer leads to another question but it forces me to dig and search and I am thankful to everyone here to verify or even correct me when I'm about to take a wrong turn!

I turned my '72 3 screw carbs into earlier 4 screw by using two short eared lids, rears I believe. It's confusing trying to explain so don't read too much into it. These two post helped me the most.

I've skimmed the long threads on setting the floats but a simple answer (if there is such a thing?) would help. After I do the 9/16 breath test, I went to double check it with a clear sight tube and it was pretty far off. I tried for hours to bend the tang to where the level in the sight tube was making very, very minor adjustments to the float tang but it would overshoot or undershoot every time. Is this normal? One thing I noticed was that where the pivot pin went through the (picture attached) there is a lot of play. Could that be the source of my problems?

--Thomas

From what I remember the pins are made so close to the inside of the float bowls that there wasn't any side play. Is that what you're talking about?

Yes, they’re trapped by the float lid. What I’m asking about is the pair of circular holes where the metal part of the float attaches to the lid. I can wiggle the floats a lot around the pin which I’m wondering if that accounts for my difficulties with the level.

22 hours ago, Tomcat said:

I noticed was that where the pivot pin went through the (picture attached) there is a lot of play. Could that be the source of my problems?

The fit of the pivot pin through the float hinge is typically a little sloppy. Doesn't really cause a problem since it's always loaded in the same direction.

The level setting of the floats can however, be finicky. I've found that I've had to add weight to the floats to get them to work properly. (Nicknamed "bloats" here on the forum if you want to search for that.)

I don't know if the new aftermarket floats have the same problem, but I've found the old original floats seem to be too "floaty"