On 9/14/2025 at 4:00 PM, Zed Head said:

There is no cold start sensor.

You're at a good point to read the Engine Fuel chapter.

You need to read this. It will explain how the things work that you're playing with.

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Actually the tachometer and the ECU use the same circuit for the coil discharge signal, from the coil negative terminal. It's branched. One end goes to the ignition module for spark creation, one to the tachometer for the RPM measurement, and one to the ECU pin #1 for injector timing. Every third spark the ECU squirts half the fuel "calculated" to be necessary.

Okay, cool. thanks for the correction.

ITS ALIVE. i decided to take off every electrical connection off and deep clean each pin. they didnt have bad corrosion but the copper had turned green where it wasnt connected for the last 20 years. I double checked each pin ohms coming through the ECU and finally got each reading within spec. Started it up and boom perfect idle.

I appreciate all you're guys help. the resources and information helped a ton.

now to bleed the clutch, find out why the break pedel is stuck and see if this thing can move!

Edited 18 hours ago18 hr by Toiletduck34

Your clutch master and slave cylinders are probably corroded and have bad seals. If it's been sitting for ten years.

Your brake master cylnder also, along with the rear wheel cylinders and maybe the caliper bores. It's just what happens. I would remove the brake master cylinder before trying to use it, before you squirt brake fluid in to the vacuum booster. If you're lucky the brake booster is dry and still usable.

Nickels and dimes...

I agree with @Zed Head. You can count on those being destroyed. You may get lucky with the booster. Look at the bottom of the MC and see if it has been leaking and the paint on the booster in that area will be gone with rust residue. I wouldn’t put any fluid in either. Take them off first.

This is for you, not your car.🙂

Something I figured out after getting older and working on these cars. You can help your back when doing all that tedious engine bay stuff by simply running it up on a set of ramps or raising it up and using jack-stands to get the motor up so you're not bending over all day. Another thing I had learn the hard way was resting my elbows on the fenders would cause dents I ended popping out with a suction cup from HarborFreight. Cover the fenders with anything like towels or paint drop cloths using magnetic bowls that hold all the fasteners.

I'm about to adjust the valves on mine. I use a set of Rhino ramps to get my lowered 240 up to, looks like about 38".

Just a courtesy bit of advice you probably figured out way before I did and it really helps. Have fun!