Suggestions Please:

As is, my Series I (Jan. '71 build) will start. The problem is it is taking more and more turns of the ignition key to get it to fire-up. The only constant is that every time I turn the key for ignition, I hear a very audible 'click' coming from a relay(?) mounted on the interior wall in the area of the passenger's right knee. In addition to this clicking sound, I can feel the actual internal movement by touching the metal housing with my right hand while turning on the ignition with my left hand.

To help with a diagnosis, the battery is strong, and the wiring contacts to the starter motor are clean. Also, this problem occurs the same with both sets of the original ignition keys.

So, is the problem coming from the keys, the key barrel, the relay (as noted above), or farther down the line to the starter? Where do I begin?

Thanks

49 minutes ago, Dr. 240Z said:

Suggestions Please:

As is, my Series I (Jan. '71 build) will start. The problem is it is taking more and more turns of the ignition key to get it to fire-up. The only constant is that every time I turn the key for ignition, I hear a very audible 'click' coming from a relay(?) mounted on the interior wall in the area of the passenger's right knee. In addition to this clicking sound, I can feel the actual internal movement by touching the metal housing with my right hand while turning on the ignition with my left hand.

To help with a diagnosis, the battery is strong, and the wiring contacts to the starter motor are clean. Also, this problem occurs the same with both sets of the original ignition keys.

So, is the problem coming from the keys, the key barrel, the relay (as noted above), or farther down the line to the starter? Where do I begin?

Thanks

The click you hear is normal. That is the accessory relay. Move on from that.

You need to verify voltage to ground (or negative) at the starter solenoid when the key is in START. That is the black/yellow wire. Suggested actions:

1. Pull the black/yellow wire off the starter solenoid.

2. Put the positive voltmeter lead on the black/yellow wire and the negative lead on the battery negative.

3. Have your assistant turn the key to the START position.

4. Measure the voltage (and report it here).

If you have around battery voltage at the black/yellow wire, then here is the next test.

1. Keep the black/yellow wire removed.

2. Ensure the car is in neutral.

3. Get a screwdriver.

4. Touch the screwdriver to the positive cable on the starter and the spade terminal where the black/yellow wire was. You don't have to hold it there for long.

5. If it doesn't engage the solenoid immediately, try a couple of more times.

Red arrow - Spade for black/yellow wire

Orange arrow - Positive cable from the battery.

If the solenoid immediately engages, then your starter solenoid is probably in good shape. Report your results.

Thanks, Steve....Appreciated

If the solenoid works fine, the likely problems are the module on the back of the ignition switch (2 screw modules may still be available from Nissan) or corrosion in the wiring.

8 hours ago, Dr. 240Z said:

more and more turns of the ignition key to get it to fire-up.

It might help to add some detail about what this means. Are you saying that the starter does not spin the engine? It's just click, click, click, then spinning happens?

Also, watch your gauges and the ammeter. If they all go dead, then come back to life that's a sign of a bad battery cable connection. The heat from the starter motor draw causes the bad connection to expand and open. Then it cools and closes.

The small spade connection at the starter solenoid can be loose also. Same effect. I almost replaced a starter once, but instead just repinched that connector. It was loose.

Steve, The source of the problem has to do with the ignition switch and/or the ignition key receptor. The solenoid is working as it should.

Zed Head, I have narrowed down the problem to the ignition switch and/or the barrel that accepts the key. As is, both keys are originals and I'm thinking they might need replacing.

Just now, I have discovered that if I apply either up or down pressure on the key as I'm turning (rotating) it to the START position, I can get the contact(s) needed to activate the solenoid and subsequently get the engine started.

So, the question now is if this an is problem that can be readily fixed or do I start fresh with a new unit ( keys, barrel and switch). I sourced a complete replacement at Z-Car Depot for $60.00 (on sale). My preference is to fix.

Thanks

I had a 1978 igntion switch with that problem. I was able to fix it by restaking the copper contact with a chisel. You'll need to remove the switch and disassemble it.

Or, it could be that the mechanical portion is worn and not turning the electrical contact far enough. I fixed that on my 76 by putting some extra twist in the rod between the mechanical and electrical parts.

Once you get the switch out and examine it you can test either possibility with a meter.

Stole this from ZCarDepot to show the staked contacts. https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-starter-switch-240z-260z-280z-510

And here's the back side where the rod inserts.

Thanks for you responses.

For the cost of a replacement, I've elected to order a complete replacement. At my age I want to get her back on the road and not be distracted about the possibility of it failing again. Someday soon my Z will be my son's Z and he's not very mechanically inclined.

Thanks,

George

IMO, The ignition key should not be your problem. It merely turns a blade that connects to the ignition switch module. I would just order the switch itself which mounts to the back side that’s held in with two small screws. You are going to end up with mismatched keys. Original set to unlock the doors and the new set to start the car. Just a suggestion

Also to replace the back of the module, you do NOT need to remove the ignition switch. You can unplug the harnesses for the combo switch and ignition, remove the 4 bolts from the steering column bracket and lower the steering column enough to get to the screws.

Yarb, I suspect you are correct. That said, having lost a lot of last year with Koni front strut issues, I'm buying my way out of this distraction, asap. Get the whole for $60 or part for $32, I chose the former, and the order is already in the system.

You can still just use the electrical component itself. Once you receive it you will understand what I mean.