I would try an induction heater on the manifold and flare nut wrenches. I would probably heat it, soak it, heat it, soak it, then heat it and try to unthread them. I have gotten things apart with my induction heater I thought would never come apart!!

That seems like the best approach, but they are a little pricey. I saw that you used one on the intake manifold tube fitting and was intrigued. I've used a torch and ice cubes in the past, but it was not very effective on the manifold because of its size I think.

9 hours ago, Patcon said:

I would try an induction heater on the manifold and flare nut wrenches. I would probably heat it, soak it, heat it, soak it, then heat it and try to unthread them. I have gotten things apart with my induction heater I thought would never come apart!!

I did something similar on mine a few months ago but with a blow torch:

Heat till red hot around the manifold, cool the threads a little with pb blaster, little pressure on the threads with wrench. Repeat for about two hours until all were loose. It caught fire several times, but I did this outside surrounded by snow.

@motorman7 I think I paid about $150 for mine on Amazon

Looks like about 80k

I tried my MAPP Torch and it was not even close to getting the exhaust manifold red, so I think I will pop for the Induction Heater.

19 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

I tried my MAPP Torch and it was not even close to getting the exhaust manifold red, so I think I will pop for the Induction Heater.

MAPP gas isn't MAPP gas anymore. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas#:~:text=MAPP%20gas%20was%20widely%20regarded,America%20that%20still%20manufactured%20it.)

My induction heater works nicely, especially in a tight spot.

Where to start

1- Fasteners for air pump bracket to engine should be engine blue ditto alt mount fasteners

2 - Only right side motor mount bracket should be black - left should be blue

3 - Timing pointer should be clear not yellow ditto for the plate at front of cylinder head

4 - Freestanding female spade connectors should not have the lock tab

NO CHARGE for the above but if you want a Gold Medallion in the stock 240 class I charge $500.00/day plus expenses

2 hours ago, zspert said:

Where to start

1- Fasteners for air pump bracket to engine should be engine blue ditto alt mount fasteners

2 - Only right side motor mount bracket should be black - left should be blue

3 - Timing pointer should be clear not yellow ditto for the plate at front of cylinder head

4 - Freestanding female spade connectors should not have the lock tab

NO CHARGE for the above but if you want a Gold Medallion in the stock 240 class I charge $500.00/day plus expenses

I'll pass. You are mistaken on items 1 and 2 so you already have discredited yourself. If you care to belabor the point, you can refer to the earlier pictures here which show you are incorrect. If you doubt the authernticity of this motor, I can show you my personal vehicle which has been in the family for 55 years and is well documented showing the same thing.

Edited March 26Mar 26 by motorman7

Finally, another update.

We last left off with my attempt to remove the Air Galley from the Exhaust Manifold. This is still very much a challenge and I am continuing to work on this. I did get one fitting out, but the others are very stubborn. I continue to soak them in PB Blaster almost everyday, but have not used the Electromagnetic heater for the last couple weeks. The fumes are pretty bad from the heating process so I have backed off on that, even while doing that outdoors. Will probably go back to the heating process in a week or so and see if I can make some progress. There really is no rush on this, so I will hit it at a more convenient time.

The body work is moving along, slowly as always. Pictures below show the latest updates from the body shop.

I am almost finished with the engine electrical harness and have finished the rear harness. The engine electrical harness had a couple of interesting items. First is a Fusible link that goes to the Alternator. I have not seen that before, but apparently it is a thing on the very early cars. Also, on the alternator charge/regulator cable, it look like there was some outside work done. There was a red wire connected to the main black ground wire. That's a little scary. I checked my Z charge cable wiring and noticed my wire was black, so I am guessing that whoever did the work didn't have the correct gauge black wire, so they used red instead. Anyway, I replaced the red wire with the correct color black wire just to get everything back to normal. Pics are below.

On the rear harness there is a wire at the end of the harness near where the speaker and antenna control wires are. Haven't seen that before. Not sure what it would operate. See pic below.

I got the shocks and springs installed on the struts. Also cleaned and lubed the front strut bearings prior to re-assembly. I re-furbed the rear brake cylinders and assembled those onto their respective backing plates. Also noticed the both emergency brake arms had an 'R' on them, odd. Cleaned up the drums also.

I cleaned and installed the front discs and noticed slots/holes in the rim of the disc. First time I have seen that. Again, probably unique to the early cars.

49 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

First is a Fusible link that goes to the Alternator. I have not seen that before, but apparently it is a thing on the very early cars

Yes, the early cars had a fusible between the alternator and the harness. (It's on the wiring diagram I've posted up on the site 😄) :

Your spade connector looks a little black and crispy. It's a high amperage connection, so it's super important that it is a good connection. Clean and tight!

I also found corrosion underneath the washer on the ground "E" connection that resulted in about a half volt drop when I turned the headlights on. Doing the calculation, it came out to about 50 milliOhms of resistance, but 50 mOhms drops a half a volt at ten amps!! So... Clean and tight!! I can walk you through how I found that questionable connection if you want, but I doubt I would need to do that.

Here's my washer with hidden corrosion underneath:

I didn't want to put a steel washer back in there, so I made a new washer out of brass:
\

Edited 17 hours ago17 hr by Captain Obvious

1 hour ago, motorman7 said:

On the rear harness there is a wire at the end of the harness near where the speaker and antenna control wires are. Haven't seen that before. Not sure what it would operate. See pic below.

I cleaned and installed the front discs and noticed slots/holes in the rim of the disc. First time I have seen that. Again, probably unique to the early cars.

And about that wire in the rear... The antenna has a ground connection on the wiring diagrams. I haven't been into that corner of an early car yet, but I thought (without actually seeing it), that antenna's ground connection came from being bolted to the body. Now that I see your harness, I suspect that ground connection to the antenna is NOT simply from connection to the body, but is in fact, a dedicated ground wire leading to the antenna.

Do you have an antenna for the car? Is there a ground lead bullet connection attached to it?

I've found several other similar issues with the factory wiring diagrams. In many locations, they didn't do a good job of conveying how grounds were connected.

And lastly... Yes, the early rotors had holes in them. Aftermarket replacements did away with that, but they are an early car thing.