Vapor Tank Question

[Yarb]

If Memory suits me no alterations were necessary. It would be so much easier to go watch his video.

[Zed Head]

 

[chaseincats]

I'm sure installing it isn't all that difficult - I just had a hell of a time finding a new one...

[Yarb]

You won’t find new. These cars you have to be flexible?

[chaseincats]

5 minutes ago, Yarb said:

You won’t find new. These cars you have to be flexible?

That was the issue - I'm assuming a carbon canister vacuum cap from 95 won't hold vacuum either

Edited April 1 by chaseincats

[Yarb]

Have you looked at the video?

[Dave WM]

IIRC it was an early 90's pathfinder. direct replacement only difference is the bottom is sealed but for a large port that is just left open. I presume you could run a large dia hose there if you wanted to relocate but that would be totally not needed since the orig was wide open. If you go to a JY to get one just bring along a mighty vac (hand held vacuum pump for bleeding brakes) and make sure the control line will hold a vacuum. As to whether or not this will solve the gas smell I have no idea. It may solve a non funtioning canister if the canister on you car is not working. May is the operative word, as to how it works

 

 

 

 

[chaseincats]

7 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

IIRC it was an early 90's pathfinder. direct replacement only difference is the bottom is sealed but for a large port that is just left open. I presume you could run a large dia hose there if you wanted to relocate but that would be totally not needed since the orig was wide open. If you go to a JY to get one just bring along a mighty vac (hand held vacuum pump for bleeding brakes) and make sure the control line will hold a vacuum. As to whether or not this will solve the gas smell I have no idea. It may solve a non funtioning canister if the canister on you car is not working. May is the operative word, as to how it works

 

 

 

 

Got it - just wish there was a part number or at least an exact year for it.

Regarding the gas smell, I took apart everything (and I mean everything) vapor related in the back of that car and pressure tested every single hose including the one to the fuel tank by putting my fingers in the outlets, putting my face up to the inlet, and blowing mightily.  Not a great experience.

Everything seemed to hold air, so I put everything back together, pushed all the hoses on VERY hard, cranked the hose clamps VERY hard, and blew in the carbon canister hardline VERY hard too.  So far, unlike before, now gas smell escaped in the back (besides the gas cap of course) which is a new experience.  My guess is these hoses are old (which they are) and needed some extra persuasion from the clamps.  We'll see if this continues to be the case.

Regarding the vapor tank.  I was thinking about bypassing it like this which I believe should work.  Getting a T-fitting and plugging one end into the metal tank line, one end into the top of the carbon canister's outlet (the one shown when you pull the vacuum cap off) and plugging the third into the ported vacuum part of the throttlebody.  That is in theory what is happening with the design despite the bespoke line going into the intake manifold.

I'll give the above a shot if the gas smell returns to the back of the car.

[Dave WM]

are you sure the metal line back to the tank is not plugged up? mine was rusted solid. You would need to disconnect and blow air thru to confrim. make sure you are only checking the metal line, after the check valve (17). You will see the metal line wrap up along the back of the car to a rubber hose, that is where you want to disconnect it to confrim its clear. The steel lines can rust inside and look fine on the outside, but be completely blocked. On mine I just cut out the metal line that runs along the frame rail, saving the ends (they have a lot of bends that would be hard to duplicate, and the rust was confined to just the low part of the line that runs along side the brake lines), too which I plumbed in some hard plastic line to reconnect the metal ends. works fine. Smells can also come from exhaust esp if the rubber seals around the tail lights and hatch are hard and not sealing. 

On more thing IIRC there is a restriction device inside the rubber hose on the line that goes to the canister from the metal tank line. I did not see it listed on the diagram, but it most certainly was there on mine. Just a metal plug with a small bore hole drilled in it pushed down the rubber line a ways at the canister line from the metal tank vent line. 

Edited April 5 by Dave WM

[chaseincats]

2 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

are you sure the metal line back to the tank is not plugged up? mine was rusted solid. You would need to disconnect and blow air thru to confrim. make sure you are only checking the metal line, after the check valve (17). You will see the metal line wrap up along the back of the car to a rubber hose, that is where you want to disconnect it to confrim its clear. The steel lines can rust inside and look fine on the outside, but be completely blocked. On mine I just cut out the metal line that runs along the frame rail, saving the ends (they have a lot of bends that would be hard to duplicate, and the rust was confined to just the low part of the line that runs along side the brake lines), too which I plumbed in some hard plastic line to reconnect the metal ends. works fine. Smells can also come from exhaust esp if the rubber seals around the tail lights and hatch are hard and not sealing. 

On more thing IIRC there is a restriction device inside the rubber hose on the line that goes to the canister from the metal tank line. 

The line should be fine since I could blow through it when it tested everything.  Also in the past I was able to blow through it and have gas fumes be ejected into the cabin so that portion should be good (unless it is only somewhat blocked).

The exhaust problem was finally fixed with a shop vac and a friend holding a halloween fog machine near the back.  Wherever smoke came in, was handled.  A huge culprit was the new taillight gaskets.  Those should be glued/siliconed to the car, as-is bolting them on does next to nothing.  I called and sassed thezstore a tidbit for that not being on their site haha

[HusseinHolland]

RWD Volvos from 85-98 (240, 740, 760, 940, 960, S90, V90) all use a similar charcoal canister (GM origin) with the same EVAP valve setup.

Z version (brought forward from ZedHead's post)

 

Edited April 6 by HusseinHolland
add image

[HusseinHolland]

Looking a little further online for GM 80's versions - there is this brand new old stock one which certainly could be adapted. It has 2 diaphragms instead of one

eBay listing

Edited April 6 by HusseinHolland