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77 280z Restoration


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Thanks Dan. I tried to find that posting. The search function on the forum isn’t great.

You asked about the differential removal. So if I had to remove my differential again since your might be doing this soon here is how I’d do it now .
1. Remove the sway bar. It blocks easy access to the propeller shaft bolts.
Not required but will make it easier.
2. Unbolt Half Shafts and propeller shaft from Differential. If the car is on jacks make sure wheels are off ground so you can rotate them to get different angle access to the bolts.
3. Tie the nose of the differential to the strap above diff. I used a slip knot so I could easily lower when ready.
4. Drain the differential-easier while mounted on car than sitting on the floor.
5. Remove skid plate under cross member. (2 bolts)
6. Unbolt differential from the crossmember mount (single bolt on cross member)
7. Remove differential crossmember (4x14 mm bolts)
This is where you need to be careful.
Lower the car and put a jack under the back of the differential with a little support.
8. Unbolt differential from mustache bar. 2x20mm
9. With the weight of the differential supported by the jack and the wheels of the jack orientated forward and aft. Slowly push the differential studs out of the mustache bar . Once they’re clear. Slowly lower the jack to to floor. Lift the back of diff off the jack and then untie the slip knot and lower the differential nose.
You’re done. Now I’d your have a transmission jack this would be much easier. That would be the preferred method.


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Posted (edited)

The ZX 39:10 differential I have is finally refreshed. I cleaned the inside with brake cleaner and wiped clean all the gears. The outside is painted with POR-15 and I kept the cover with the exposed aluminum. I put the old plug from my 3.54 differential into this one, because it uses a type for an box wrench vs the 1/2” drive type. I would not be able to service it with the ZX fill plug because there isn’t enough space between the back of the diff and the rear mount to inset a 1/2” drove socket.
I put new synthetic 75W-90 gear oil in. Took more than what I expected. Read 1.3 quarts but it took about 1.7 before it began to run out the plug whole. Refreshing the 1/2 shafts now. Not fun cleaning all this gunk, and time consuming. Still waiting on my powder coated parts to be done.


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Edited by Av8ferg
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On 4/5/2022 at 7:03 AM, Av8ferg said:

Today I’m installing the technoversion differential stop.  I have the bracket in but was wondering how much material to remove from the snubber.  The instructions says most applications should remove the bottom two steps but then it says but measure first. It’s a bit hard to measure holding an 80lb differential up there.  What’s is the general consensus.  Do you want the snubber touching the differential or do you want a small gap?  I know a few folks installed these recently on a 280Z.  Thanks 

John, when I installed the TC mount in my 240Z, I bolted the differential in place without the snubber installed.  Then got a few sockets of various lengths and started holding them up where the snubber should be until I found one that that allowed about 1/8" of up and down movement between the snubber mounting surface and top of differential.  Then cut the snubber to the length of that socket.  Just an idea.

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John, when I installed the TC mount in my 240Z, I bolted the differential in place without the snubber installed.  Then got a few sockets of various lengths and started holding them up where the snubber should be until I found one that that allowed about 1/8" of up and down movement between the snubber mounting surface and top of differential.  Then cut the snubber to the length of that socket.  Just an idea.

Ken, thanks. Great idea. Wasn’t sure I was going to get in there once the differential was in. Glad to know it’s possible. Thank you!


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When I did this I removed only the smallest two rings of the snubber cone. Mine does fit tight against the differential which is what I wanted for the time being (trying to remove all play from the driveline). There is some noise/vibration but t it's not terrible, and I honestly can't say for sure that it's due to the RT snubber. If you don't want any normal contact with the differential then you should probably shave off the next half a ring. Just a data point - the previous suggestion of trying various sizes of socket seems like a great idea.

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When buying the TechnoVersions mount, is there a reason not to use the GM style mount? Seems like it simplifies the design and easier install. Perhaps increased NVH since its always in contact with the bushing?

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Work stoppage for parts.  Waiting on my mustache bar bushings.  Scheduled for a Monday delivery.  Wanted all this in before end of next Monday.   I leave for work on Tuesday and the won’t be able to touch the car for about 3 weeks.  I really wanted it back on its wheels.   
Everything is ready to put in.   

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Dan, thanks. I hit those shafts with my power washer to knock of all the caked on grime. It was thick and struck in every crevice! I then metal etched the shafts and then painted them. Those l boots are not new, just cleaned them up . No cracks or dry rot there so I imagine they’re not so old. I put all my nuts and bolts in a shaker to clean them up also.


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Okay, I need an assist.   Got the bushings installed on my mustache bar.  Now I’m confused after 4 weeks which way it goes back on.   I went to the FSM and there is a discrepancy in that publication showing 2 different install directions.   Looking from the back to from the loops (with the bushings) face forward or aft .  I thought forward and then found two diagrams in the FSM that conflict which each other?  This determines if the bar goes in front or behind the rectangular brackets hanging.   See the attached diagrams from FSM.  
First shows mustache bar behind brackets and loops facing the back of car.  Last two pics show the exact opposite.  Am I missing something here?   I can’t be the fist guy confused here?  It came off as in last two pics but recall mine wasn’t seated properly either so I think a PO was messing down here before.  
 

 

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I have seen both kinds of bars. Forward and rearward bars. I would think it would depend on what bar you actually have.

Did 280's come with factory supplied rear sway bars?

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37 minutes ago, S30Driver said:

The bar is installed with the loops facing toward the front of the car.

You must have had too many umbrella drinks on your vacation....  lol

I agree with you, but clearly the first drawing shows it the opposite direction.  Maybe R180s use less space so it could go the other way???

  I did have a lot of umbrella drinks on vacation so if this is the only bad outcome, I can live with that!!!

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Well, it looks like the loops are forward in the video you posted of trying to figure out where the noise was coming from your rear end.

Wait…that doesn’t sound good!

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24 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I have seen both kinds of bars. Forward and rearward bars. I would think it would depend on what bar you actually have.

Did 280's come with factory supplied rear sway bars?

Yes, he has the factory rear sway bar.

The R180 is smaller and after the early cars moved, the diif was moved to correct the angularity of the half shafts.  Maybe that has something to do with it.

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So, the link sent by ZedHead shows a setup like first FSM drawing.   That 1977 Zapp car has a 4 speed and what appears to be a R180.   Could this be the difference?  Right now I’m installed like drawing 2 & 3 and how it came off the car. This pic below is from the Bat car.   You can clearly see the loops on the bar is facing rearward.  

 

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I was on sway bar also.  

The mustache bar (aka transverse link) is installed oppositely for the R180 and R200.  The FSM only shows the R200 for the 280Z.  For some odd reason they ignore the R180 in the RA drawings for the 280Z, even though they include it in the Prop and Diff chapter. 

This is R200 from the 1978 280Z FSM.

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This is R180 from the 1973 FSM.

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Can anyone provide conformation that the half shafts are different lengths on a R200 stock set up.   I recall reading that the drivers side needed to be slightly shorter.  When fully extended one of mine is .5” shorter so I’m guessing that’s the drivers side.  
 

 

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This used to be a hot topic and John Coffey actually measured a bunch of half shafts, compressed, and found that they were all the same length.  He had the work on his Beta Motorsport site for a while and then on a separate Facebook page but I think it's all gone now.  I think the original subject was about why half shafts bind in 240Z when you install an R200.  The question never really got a good answer.  But at least a bunch of half shafts got measured.

One of the Z books, maybe the Humble Restoration book, has a TSB in it about Nissan removing one of the ball spacers in the half shaft so that it would extend further, so a longer shaft suggests a newer half shaft.  But, compressed they're all the same. 

In short, there's not really a left or right shaft.

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Thanks ZedHead, I appreciate the information! Maybe I’ll get them in today but will be headed to work soon…so more she’ll be sitting again. I think I predicted this would take 6 weeks to complete…I’m on target. I still have to install the new rear springs and shocks back there..(let’s add 2 week for that). life happens


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I have a question about half shaft lubrication.    I bought a standard hand pump grease gun to lubricate the half shaft joints.  The grease gun fitting it too big to fit into the space where the zerk fittings are.  I looked at three parts stores nearby and all the gun fittings are the same size (Clerk said its the industry standard) as the one I bought.  Not sure if anyone else has run into this.  I wanted to grease this joints up before I install the half shafts.   Anyone ideas.  

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