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I do think it's well said that it would be smart to put unused ECUs into a ziplock bag with a dessicant enclosed. (Here in COlorado at 10% humidity in midwinter I'm not sure I'd worry about the dessicant. ) 



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That is foil-backed Mylar.  There's also a clear Mylar that has no EMF protectant properties.  Used to make transparences.  Mylar is a trade name for the base material.  It's polyester.

https://usa.dupontteijinfilms.com/resources/trademark/

 

Edited by Zed Head

I live in the south and 800 yards from the Atlantic Ocean. We are in the high 90’s for humidity in the summer. The salt spray doesn’t help either.


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1 hour ago, Pilgrim said:

I do think it's well said that it would be smart to put unused ECUs into a ziplock bag with a dessicant enclosed. (Here in COlorado at 10% humidity in midwinter I'm not sure I'd worry about the dessicant. ) 

Down here with all our humidity I keep a couple of stereos in my gun safe that has a dehumidifier built in. It's fire and water proof so the dehumidifier is kinda redundant I always thought.

I bought a gun safe dehumidifier from walmart that I use in my 240. Doesn't work very well though. It's filled with silica that turns green when it's moist. Plug it in and overnight it heats up changing back to orange.

On 2/8/2022 at 3:33 PM, Av8ferg said:

Jim, so I had been communicating with Ivan at Vintage Dashes for some time. What put me off was the need for a full payment and then 3-6 month wait . I just felt it was ripe for a bad outcome. I don’t like paying up front for long wait back order items, or services to be rendered in the future. I’ve been burned before. I sent Ivan a message again two weeks ago and he said he has 2 “blem” 280z dashes. Sent me videos and pic and the minor blem was under the metal finisher. Honestly I can’t ever tell it’s there. I paid $1100 and paid for shipping using my company discount.
I think the dash looks a great BTW.


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How do you get in touch with Vintage Dashes?  I can’t get a response to my e-mail .

Thanks!  Won’t need it for quite a while, but probably good to get it going.  I have a rust free 78 Z that’s missing a lot of parts and another that’s a total rust bucket, but complete.  Making two into one will keep me occupied for a long time. 

Good plan, I predict prices are going to continue to rise on everything across the board.  So if you know you’ll need something it’s best to buy now vs cry later.  

Seats complete.   
-had the lower section with springs powder coated. 
-painted the uppers myself
-foam came from a member in the forum
- covers are from MSA and are the vinyl version.
- got advice and tricks and tips from S30driver (thanks Jim)
Using zip ties around the hog rings is the way to do it, to tighten things up.  
I’m happy with the outcome.  
 
cut myself with the razor blade twice whic is so easy to do on a job like this.  
 
3F02D728-8D33-423E-A6A9-F3DC0E22B610.thumb.jpeg.9fde84c7b1d7a67e37cb12d4f710489b.jpeg
354990C1-4B44-4289-8749-E5FE317B9CA3.thumb.jpeg.771ea15e5a8ee5d37142226b33b12c56.jpeg
A249FF45-64CF-42FD-A214-BEAEB7A9D173.thumb.jpeg.8ad2d34f767e1a9cd046eb79e25a00b4.jpeg
6EC2C55C-5B6E-4F2E-B3A5-34E1102054BB.thumb.jpeg.fa8d45f1fab244c86ead010683831792.jpeg

So, I’m going to start a new thread. This one has met the intent of the name.
New thread will be “77 280z restoration”. I’ll pick it up there with my latest challenges.


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