Racer X Posted May 9, 2021 Share #13 Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Zed Head said: I knew I should have taken those courses. I didn't like the instructor and had other options. I modified my post. I would think of the temperature switch as the signal. To be frank though, I'm not even really sure what parts Mushi is working with. Does he have the full controller or just a temperature switch running (signalling) a relay? Unclear. Just to fill things out. It seems to fit the subject. Not too late, for me. - https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/systems/electronic-system.html The OP is using a kit that has a controller in addition to the thermoswitch and relay. Edited May 9, 2021 by Racer X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravemushi260z Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share #14 Posted May 10, 2021 2 hours ago, SteveJ said: If you have a stock setup on your ignition, you are wiring it contrary to the instructions you posted. So, here is how you should have the control box wired to the car according to the instructions: Black - Grounded Green - Nothing (assuming you don't have AC) Yellow - To the black/white wire at the ballast resistor Red - Battery Note, if you have the red and yellow reversed, the car will probably die/not start because you are trying to draw too much current from the ignition circuit. I don’t believe I have them reversed, I am positive the red and yellow are going to the right spot (it’s a lot more clear with newer wires haha). Regarding the black/white wire at the ballast resistor, i should hook it up after the resistor but before the coil right? I attached a picture of the wiring diagram and circled where I intend to wire it into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravemushi260z Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share #15 Posted May 10, 2021 2 hours ago, Zed Head said: Here are the super-simplified instructions. There's a youtube link, if the embedded image doesn't show. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr_8-AnEMRo Got it, just watched this video, thank you so much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted May 10, 2021 Share #16 Posted May 10, 2021 12 minutes ago, bravemushi260z said: I don’t believe I have them reversed, I am positive the red and yellow are going to the right spot (it’s a lot more clear with newer wires haha). Regarding the black/white wire at the ballast resistor, i should hook it up after the resistor but before the coil right? I attached a picture of the wiring diagram and circled where I intend to wire it into. No, it goes to the black/white wire on the resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravemushi260z Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share #17 Posted May 10, 2021 7 minutes ago, SteveJ said: No, it goes to the black/white wire on the resistor. Got it, I will take a look when I get into it tomorrow morning, hopefully it works. Unfortunately won’t be able to take it out until I get the mustang that’s blocking off the jack stands 😆. More motivation to get its transmission back in I guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted May 10, 2021 Share #18 Posted May 10, 2021 28 minutes ago, bravemushi260z said: Got it, just watched this video, thank you so much I did not watch the whole video so can't speak to its correctness. I posted it for the label on the part, and maybe the video is right. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravemushi260z Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share #19 Posted May 10, 2021 Thanks to all of you guys for your help @Zed Head @SteveJ @Racer X, I got it working as soon as I was hooked up to the resistor instead of the coil. Unfortunately it’s not enough cooling and the car is still getting a bit hotter than I would like, so I’ll be getting another 12 inch and installing it next to the first one, as well as setting the temp it comes on lower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted May 10, 2021 Share #20 Posted May 10, 2021 How are you measuring temperature? Via the gauge? With an infrared thermometer? At what point in the system were you measuring the temperature? I will tend to agree that a 12 inch fan may be too small. Things to consider: Water pump - Are the impeller blades corroded to nothing? Gunk in the system - Have you flushed the cooling system? Lean combustion - Lean is hotter. You might want to take the radiator cap off when the car is cool and watch for coolant flow when the car is running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravemushi260z Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share #21 Posted May 10, 2021 I’m measuring temp based on the gauge, I know it’s running hot because I’m still getting run on when I turn off the car, there may be air getting in somewhere so I will check with some carb cleaner and see if I hear any change in RPM. For the cooling system I’ve flushed it twice before running the car and have all new fluid in there, also know it’s flowing well from some small leaks I had and fixed. I may be running Lean so I’ll mess with the carbs s bit and see if it fixed anything. Heading over where the car is before class and will take a look at the impeller blades 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted May 10, 2021 Share #22 Posted May 10, 2021 The fan only has an effect at very slow speeds. If you're seeing high temperatures while cruising at, like, 20 mph or higher, it's not a fan problem. Unless the fan and shroud are actually blocking air flow. Run-on (dieseling) is usually caused by running rich, carbon deposits in the combustion chamber getting hot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted May 10, 2021 Share #23 Posted May 10, 2021 3 hours ago, bravemushi260z said: I’m measuring temp based on the gauge, I know it’s running hot because I’m still getting run on when I turn off the car, . . . Dieseling, or running on after shutting the key off is caused by excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. The carbon gets super heated, and when the key is switched off, killing the ignition spark, the glowing bits of carbon continue to ignite the air/fuel mixture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravemushi260z Posted May 11, 2021 Author Share #24 Posted May 11, 2021 18 hours ago, Zed Head said: The fan only has an effect at very slow speeds. If you're seeing high temperatures while cruising at, like, 20 mph or higher, it's not a fan problem. Unless the fan and shroud are actually blocking air flow. Run-on (dieseling) is usually caused by running rich, carbon deposits in the combustion chamber getting hot. So I have the overheating problem with the car just idling for about 15-20 minutes, could be carbon deposits since I dont know how this car was running before I got it. 18 hours ago, Racer X said: Dieseling, or running on after shutting the key off is caused by excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. The carbon gets super heated, and when the key is switched off, killing the ignition spark, the glowing bits of carbon continue to ignite the air/fuel mixture. I am looking into how to get this out, do you recommend fuel additives? I had originally run sea foam with my gas to clean everything up, but is there something people recommend for these cars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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