Jump to content

IGNORED

Just saying hello


mailnome

Recommended Posts

Pulled the fenders to take a look and dug at the corner of the foot wells yesterday evening. Moisture is from spraying down with penetrant.

Behind that right fender

2eac79d23ddb0dbc93752a3b302f3e33.jpg

Then the footwell under

f456c021c47c6def8a9a2b503ac16a62.jpg

Drivers side

9a8f67cef4f37fbfef07d202b1761617.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Yeah.. seems to be repairable!!  I've seen cars that had fiberglass repairs and came out to be unrepairable..

Think you can restore the damage because its not to much!  👍

I'm curious how the corner just in front of the left rear wheel comes out when you take the glassfiber out there..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I don't know if there is someone that made these beam's ( see pic.) can you make them yourself by hand?  Still a lot of work.. i would look for a better chassis.  

Also.. take a look at the inner side of the corners of the chassis where you normally lift the car.. there should be a inner steel plate between the inside and outside part. Lots of 280zx's have bad corners and can't be lifted there (lifting points.)  

ebbe89bf5cbaa0298c024d085c7c518c.jpg

Edited by dutchzcarguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, one of the few pieces you can get for the ZX is frame rails and floor pans but I will most likely recreate them.

Will have to dig in to the area under the doglegs. The floor there is in post #45, third and fourth pics


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Same old, just cleaning things up and getting ready.

Here’s some loveliness for you Dutch.

3f61a2c3869f4909f45f0d35368c28a3.jpg

8c4e32e2d0f2647d7497647a09c5f3c0.jpg

Gruesome, mess with me and I’ll cut ya

ee582150b7ac5e8a4d1ac6936d4e3d7d.jpg

5c9b98d9aa6ae865495d19945f6dc80f.jpg

Cleaning up the flip side

d9d2beb7d184f589d6cae9e2bbe1ce24.jpg

84ffd913bb0999c76c2ca526ede7ebe5.jpg

dbe1d60a20bb8ec9e37a4db53890ba6a.jpg

b321723b2c784e1966cc17ff7b6d1665.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That wiring seems to be in pretty good shape. My PO put Dynamat over every bit of wiring on the rear deck, including the harness and cover access for the fuel pump.  When removing the Dynamat to repair rust, I had to tear up all that wiring and re wire it.  I wish I could meet that guy.  I bought the car from his ex wife. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW !!!!!!   That rail looks terrible/horrible !!   I literally screamed when i saw that!!  How can this come that bad without the floor getting bend? wow!  Btw, you did a nice job on getting those dents out of the floor! Can't wait for the pics of you putting in a new set of rails!

ee582150b7ac5e8a4d1ac6936d4e3d7d.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dutch, do you happen to have any good pics of the underside of your car while it was being redone?

I saw a few in your thread, but wasn’t sure if you had others that you didn’t post.

I know the 2+2 will be slightly different but I know your car was in good shape. I did grab a lot of pics from BAT and other sites but nice primered parts show good contrast. Most posted online don’t have pics of the underside, they are covered in undercoating, or are beat up too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, mailnome said:

good pics of the underside

SOrry, but i don't.. why?  It was one of the things why i restored this car. the underside of it is covered in a sort of black tar i really don't know exactly what it is but i think it's what we overhere call: "silolak "  a translation could be: silo-laquer.. (stuff farmers use to protect concrete/steel/wood.) 

It's on there since the 90's so why did'nt i take it off?  I believe i tell this somewhere in the topic about my 280zx and it's because when i took some off the stuff (maybe it's a (secret?) mix of special stuff i don't know but i took some off from the brakelines and they came out as NEW! from under it!  As i'm partly disabled, i have had a neck injury long ago where i almost broke my neck running up stairs and hitting a big beam.. auw.. So now i can't look up a long time, also not to long to one point and that kept me from doing the floor..  As i took out all the stuff out of the car i could see that the car had a good floor. Maybe some day i will clean it off by a firm or so.. don't know but as long it's a good floor i will keep it "oiled up" so it doesn't rust..

To the secret stuff used as undercoating can i say, maybe the last owner who i plan to visit when i'm ready with the engineroom, knows more about it.  My 280zx was inside and outside sealed with oily stuff, not normall! But that's what saved this vehicle!  I took it all off incl. the paint.  

Have you seen the wheel houses on my pics?.. just thought of that! I had them cleaned out (costs another 500€)  and must have some pics of those all cleaned out..

Mart (It comes from Martin!)  ...  Yes i also react to Dutch.. haha ) 🙂

Edited by dutchzcarguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mart. Sorry, my last post I thought I should find your name.

Yes, the wheel housing pics look great. That is what made me hope you had the underside too. Great that it did not need done!

And I am Matt (Matthew)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Had some fun creating my panel for the floor as my first metal working project. This is actually my second (same) piece I made.

The first one I shaped was from 22 gauge and seemed flimsy though I hadn’t dimple died it. It was all I could find easily and was anxious start.

Then I was hooked up with a sheet of 18. After cutting and fitting I believe the original floor is 18 gauge also or very close to it.

I forgot to take a picture of my new favorite and handy tool to make my patterns but I bought a HF 10 In. Contour Gauge. Cheap and helpful.

07f4431bcfd96c234f709b182a541233.jpg

16676fb6d33db8b223cce4d053747efb.jpg

403cff815c6b1b0866fb9f0f2deb30f2.jpg

Bearing race and press piece for my dimple die. I cut the hole first and centered everything up in the press the best I could. Maybe a hair to deep but I’m happy.

375916dcfdff450e2400d8269935ab32.jpg

e132838c4151ea65042ffa7657aa82a4.jpg

49aaa83470bbb7ae426cf87703546c18.jpg

8c5f12c57c27894570e7e6053b489ca6.jpg

43f2e4db8fe32d5379a924bec5e42eec.jpg

I need to work on the welder set up. I thought I was getting decent penetration but after I welded some more this evening I didn’t get as good welds. Then I also tried from the bottom and the welder didn’t like it. I was out of time anyway, which was good. No need to push on and get frustrated, step back and assess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, mailnome said:

Had some fun creating my panel for the floor as my first metal working project. This is actually my second (same) piece I made.

The first one I shaped was from 22 gauge and seemed flimsy though I hadn’t dimple died it. It was all I could find easily and was anxious start.

Then I was hooked up with a sheet of 18. After cutting and fitting I believe the original floor is 18 gauge also or very close to it.

I forgot to take a picture of my new favorite and handy tool to make my patterns but I bought a HF 10 In. Contour Gauge. Cheap and helpful.

07f4431bcfd96c234f709b182a541233.jpg

16676fb6d33db8b223cce4d053747efb.jpg

403cff815c6b1b0866fb9f0f2deb30f2.jpg

Bearing race and press piece for my dimple die. I cut the hole first and centered everything up in the press the best I could. Maybe a hair to deep but I’m happy.

375916dcfdff450e2400d8269935ab32.jpg

e132838c4151ea65042ffa7657aa82a4.jpg

49aaa83470bbb7ae426cf87703546c18.jpg

8c5f12c57c27894570e7e6053b489ca6.jpg

43f2e4db8fe32d5379a924bec5e42eec.jpg

I need to work on the welder set up. I thought I was getting decent penetration but after I welded some more this evening I didn’t get as good welds. Then I also tried from the bottom and the welder didn’t like it. I was out of time anyway, which was good. No need to push on and get frustrated, step back and assess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like a good start. The dimpling die trick is sweet.


Welding is always easiest and best done from the top side of the join. To do welds on a surface that is normally facing down, flip the part over so the weld is “on top”. A rotisserie works well for positioning a car to do this.

Are you annealing the sheet metal before hammering and forming it?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, mailnome said:

I was getting decent penetration but after I welded some more this evening I didn’t get as good welds.

You did a nice job on the steel sheet!  But i see (i think) not clean enough welding area.. (hence the black soot around your welds..?)  To have a good weld clean the place from all paint and stuff, you will see that the welding go's much better and... it's better for your lungs! ( use some fan or other air displacing stuff..  welding can be very poisonous

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like a good start. The dimpling die trick is sweet.

Welding is always easiest and best done from the top side of the join. To do welds on a surface that is normally facing down, flip the part over so the weld is “on top”. A rotisserie works well for positioning a car to do this.
Are you annealing the sheet metal before hammering and forming it?
 
 

A rotisserie would be nice and would make the frame rail work much easier but I’ll probably try to do without.

After a little research on welding upside down it seems it is doable but not ideal. I’ll have to try some things and see how it goes.

I have not seen or read much about annealing. I think remember coming across it and they were working with aluminum. They were talking about heating the metal between working it, I believe because it becomes hardened from the forming. I had not seen any mention annealing with steel but would love to learn more if needed.


You did a nice job on the steel sheet!  But i see (i think) not clean enough welding area.. (hence the black soot around your welds..?)  To have a good weld clean the place from all paint and stuff, you will see that the welding go's much better and... it's better for your lungs! ( use some fan or other air displacing stuff..  welding can be very poisonous


Yes, I should have cleaned up more before starting. I had planned to but then forgot once I had a chance to weld and just jumped into it. I did notice the soot in the pics and wondered if I ran out of gas. I had not


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have never heard of annealing steel when working with it. Dirty materials is definitely harder to weld properly. I have done some mig work inverted. When using shield gas you may need to turn it up some and also avoid working in windy conditions, It can cause your shielding gas to disperse

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, mailnome said:

A rotisserie would be nice and would make the frame rail work much easier but I’ll probably try to do without.

After a little research on welding upside down it seems it is doable but not ideal. I’ll have to try some things and see how it goes.

A good way to do the rails is (when your car is empty inside , you took all the interior out..) is to weld them from the inside!  first you drill holes from 1/4 inch in the old spotwelds than take off the old rails..  then you can weld the new rails from top.. from the inside and they will look also much better as you have no weld mess on the underside. (you will see that it almost looks like original.) You may want to drill some extra holes for new welds also..  (I had to drill every inch a hole from 6mm (i did even 7,5 mm) to get my old 240z through the APK (Dutch MOT!) when i made it a new floor and rails in 2000!   If I had not done that, the car would not have passed the strict inspection!) 

(Btw.. about the fan when welding.. don't put it to close to your welding ofcourse.. otherwise you need a lot of gas and you make bad welds.. just let a fan above you blow the smoke away..  What i sometimes do is take compressed air and blow away the smoke and also when you are making a lot of dust, blow it away, you need a lot of air.. Also when you have a small fire from welding it's always handy to have the compressed air within reach.)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a good looking panel. Are you just hammer forming or something else?

Sorry Pat, just saw this. Thanks!

Pretty much hammer forming. I did use the vice as brake in the beginning to make the wide U shape then flattened the one end back down in the vice and started beating. Ended up rounding the lower angles using a 3 way trailer ball hitch as dolly in the vice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, mailnome said:

drilling out the spot weld

You can also do it from the underside, just drill right through the floor, then drill some extra holes, clean up everything with a steelwire brush (on a drill) and put the new rails in place from the underside, just put some little welds from the underside and then if it is positioned right, weld the whole thing together. (Just clean it well because the stuff on that floor catches fire easely... ask me how i know... 😉 )

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Busy month and very little non family extracurricular time. Down to 2-3 hours a week if I’m lucky.

Basically a few tweaks and a shave or two here and there with a file and it’s good to go. I have to decide if I need to deal with the rabbit hole on the right first before welding. I may want to cut there while I have good access.

7ef9740d95c446e3a94f2ce9eed7f046.jpg

Also as I slowly go along, I am trying to decide on my approach for the right body rail. It’s either drill out the welds and reproduce almost the whole thing. Or cut it horizontally staying down at least a 1/2” and saving the original spot welded flange. Either is going to be a lot of work.

2ae50ff35872ad3e2af91607218adf8d.jpg

579637eae87e32723794cff2ec25e293.jpg

Right now I’m leaning towards cutting horizontal, I think I will make it slightly less complex to build.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.