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Where can I find L20a connecting rods?


z shredder

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7 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Why are you opposed to boring your block?

I am not trying to build a super high performace engine and you prabaly know mods like these are a slippery slope 😆 because if i bore the block I might aswell port the cylinder head and if I do that I should prabably to the exhaust manafold and triple carbs.

I pretty much want something that drops in, that would be perfect like I said if I could just drop in a crankshaft and some rods or pistons I would be a happy camper.

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I wouldn't build an engine that I didn't have the block machined. Not a lot of cost difference in honing or boring. You'll probably be buying pistons anyway so no additional cost there...

I understand wanting to keep the matching block in car but I wouldn't pause one bit about punching it out to a safe size.

All that being said, power is made in doing head work over minimal displacement increases

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11 hours ago, z shredder said:

I am not trying to build a super high performace engine and you prabaly know mods like these are a slippery slope 😆 because if i bore the block I might aswell port the cylinder head and if I do that I should prabably to the exhaust manafold and triple carbs.

I pretty much want something that drops in, that would be perfect like I said if I could just drop in a crankshaft and some rods or pistons I would be a happy camper.

You could get a reasonable improvement by simply changing your camshaft, but - in my opinion - the simplest one-hit modification with the best butt-dyno results on one of these cars is a differential ratio change...

What market model is your car, and what differential ratio does it have?

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You could get a reasonable improvement by simply changing your camshaft, but - in my opinion - the simplest one-hit modification with the best butt-dyno results on one of these cars is a differential ratio change...
What market model is your car, and what differential ratio does it have?


Just to confirm this point I swapped out my 3.54 for the 3.9 this summer and while it’s only a 10% difference, it is noticeably quicker.

I hate it when you ask a question and the suggestions are trying to take you in a different direction, but let me do exactly that: you could spend the money on the head (where the power is made) and drop in a crank from an L26/L28 to get to 2.6L without any boring (if that’s what you want to do). The advice above I feel is sound, while you have the engine apart, you may as well have fresh bores with your new piston rings to wear together. You could go a little (safe amount) over and get more displacement too. Food for thought maybe.
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21 hours ago, z shredder said:

That is exactly what I mean I want to keep my original engine but i would also love to get some extra capacity by dropping in a crankshaft and some rods or pistons I really do not want to bore it out.

Might as well tie things together.  A plan will form eventually.  Keep original engine (block) and get more power seems to the heart of it.  I saw "save money" somewhere also.  Moderate budget power increase seems like the goal.

I would avoid using words like drop or slap or toss when thinking about modifying your engine.  People write like that often but only the pros can really do any dropping swapping or tossing of parts in engine work.  Even just removing the crankshaft and honing the cylinders, then using new rings on the pistons and bearings on the crankshaft, is a complex operation for the average weekend mechanic.  You're not going to drop in a new crankshaft, swap some pistons, and toss the engine back in without spending lots of money and time.  

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131952-ld28-crank-stroker-market-rate/?tab=comments#comment-1224639

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