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240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena


240ZBUILTBYME

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On 9/15/2022 at 3:51 PM, dutchzcarguy said:

How is your 280zx? daily driver?

Mart the 280zx is brilliant! I did the manual swap, installed a fidanza aluminum flywheel while I was in there, completely changes the car having the manual and the flywheel makes it rev much more freely. I’ve been driving it at least once a week and I love it.

344D4D2A-EAE7-49DB-874C-1421D90FDB59.jpeg12885852-7311-47A0-AA61-A003C76697DB.jpegalso installed the recaro LX. Makes a huge difference to spirited driving as I’m not struggling to stay in my seat anymore!

9CC82083-1B22-40E1-B5EF-E4C0C467142B.jpeg62786536-F426-4CC5-96F3-F5AA85E2C87A.jpeg

If the 240z defeats me I’d love to do a turbo build on the zx. It’s just such a great car, just needs more power to overcome the extra weight!

 

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17 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

do a turbo build on the zx. It’s just such a great car, just needs more power

You did a NICE job on the 280zx!!  👍 

Yeah, the 280zx is a great car to drive but the 240z is much more nimble, I like them both very much... i was thinking of placing a fidanza flywheel but the price is overhere ... eh.. i find it a bit high for a piece of aluminium and some steel screwed to it..

Yes.. i still haven't put back my 280 engine, last time i worked on my 280zx was october last year or so... pfff.. (I still hear them say those doctors, oh yes you can live easely without a thyroid.. they took half but i'm a wreck since 2010.. had pills in 2 sorts but to no relief.  I'm again on levotheroxine but the only thing i experience is a bad temper.. and agressive  (Towards printers that don't print haha... i kicked it's arse!!)  The higher the medication the more agressiv i get.. so STAY OUT OF MY WAY!!! 🤬  (just kidding..)

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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On 9/17/2022 at 4:20 PM, dutchzcarguy said:

bit high for a piece of aluminium and some steel screwed to it..

I think it’s one of the best bang for your buck mods, it made a huge difference to the rev speed. It’s nearly 10kg lighter than the stock flywheel, that’s a huge reduction in rotating mass! 

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Racer let me know if you can see this post ok?

Another long day of drilling out spot welds on the roof skin. I can see why metal works are the most expensive part of restoring a car, it’s so time consuming. 

can anyone tell me about the joint between the rear quarter and roof skin? Mine seemed to be oxy welded or brazed together, is this factory? There was lead wiping which I burnt off, I ended up cutting the joint with a grinder but wondering if there’s a better way.

64BC6D8C-8CB5-4AD2-9F3A-D2EB7594B87F.png
 

I also found the front corners were welded in, there was no other way so I just cut joint and part of the skin with my 5 inch, I really must get so Roloc attachments and small cutting discs for my die grinder. I managed not to damage any structures underneath. 
D9D6B05B-80BA-4BAB-8B55-D600106C922D.jpeg

D1430427-8571-4858-9CF9-F493CEA8ECDE.jpeg
i found the front and rear of the roof skin easy to unpick, the LHS was just cut as there was barely anything left, I found the RHS rain rail joint extremely difficult to unpick, I came close to just cutting it with a grinder on more than one occasion, but I persevered and I’m glad I did. There is just no room to work, I tried modifying my scraper blade so I could hammer it along as I went, but that wasn’t effective. In the end I used a sharpened flathead screwdriver to break the joints after drilling.

9361718F-8CAA-464C-8D16-217A5174DDA7.jpegBB4E0878-8075-4F93-9C9D-5C222C762326.jpeg
 

there was a small amount of mangling which was unavoidable but overall very happy with how cleanly I was able to unpick the roof. I’m hoping to sell the skin to someone who needs to fill in their sunroof hole as the center of the skin is excellent.

549B1F9C-6347-4BBF-BEDD-7047E068EEE4.jpegD8A0CD30-7B9C-4850-B4CE-D778C1F032AF.jpegF462ED84-CB03-4FD8-B6FD-CF887B3A59C5.jpeg

FA26768C-CBC7-41B5-9A6C-59B1F14043D4.jpegE693A29E-D2F8-403D-8E16-40B5FAD69BCD.jpeg1C2850CC-9A5C-45AF-A001-2D62F8AF509A.jpeg

Was surprised to find the RHS to be very clean, some pitting at the rear quarter joint but overall a good result.

E54E4B4B-CD8F-44DB-9CA7-7ECA345FC623.jpegBAF6EFA5-70EF-4938-8EB6-36B1DABEA2C2.jpeg

the LHS is a $^!# show, as expected, it’s going to take a lot of work to rebuild the whole structure, rear quarter join is completely gone. 

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That would be a great use of that old roof skin

The joint at the A pillar and B pillar are leaded. Be careful working with that. You can easily get lead exposure!

I don't know if the joint was welded or brazed but we were told by Matsuo? that those areas were designed to flex some. So making them too rigid could be detrimental. So it wouldn't be surprising if those areas were brazed

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Wow, exiting to see your perseverance!  Wow!! 

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

That would be a great use of that old roof skin

I would sell the roofskin to someone that had a sunroof in it!  I think there are enough enthousiasts that need/want one..

For repairs i use 0,7 0,8 and 1mm special car chassis steel with zinclayer..  The best handling stuff is the 0,8 mm as it's pliable and weld-able. I sprayed the welds with special zincspray and before welding you should take off the zinc on the spots you weld because of the damps, not so good for your health.. (Watch out.. you have only one body..  we all think we are invincible when we are young but please buy good stuff to protect yourself! Sometimes i think i feel so damn bad of the fumes i got when welding a old Z.. or took the old paint off.. i don't know but there is bad stuff in these old cars.)

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On 9/19/2022 at 6:01 AM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Racer let me know if you can see this post ok?

Another long day of drilling out spot welds on the roof skin. I can see why metal works are the most expensive part of restoring a car, it’s so time consuming. 

can anyone tell me about the joint between the rear quarter and roof skin? Mine seemed to be oxy welded or brazed together, is this factory? There was lead wiping which I burnt off, I ended up cutting the joint with a grinder but wondering if there’s a better way.

64BC6D8C-8CB5-4AD2-9F3A-D2EB7594B87F.png
 

I also found the front corners were welded in, there was no other way so I just cut joint and part of the skin with my 5 inch, I really must get so Roloc attachments and small cutting discs for my die grinder. I managed not to damage any structures underneath. 
D9D6B05B-80BA-4BAB-8B55-D600106C922D.jpeg

D1430427-8571-4858-9CF9-F493CEA8ECDE.jpeg
i found the front and rear of the roof skin easy to unpick, the LHS was just cut as there was barely anything left, I found the RHS rain rail joint extremely difficult to unpick, I came close to just cutting it with a grinder on more than one occasion, but I persevered and I’m glad I did. There is just no room to work, I tried modifying my scraper blade so I could hammer it along as I went, but that wasn’t effective. In the end I used a sharpened flathead screwdriver to break the joints after drilling.

9361718F-8CAA-464C-8D16-217A5174DDA7.jpegBB4E0878-8075-4F93-9C9D-5C222C762326.jpeg
 

there was a small amount of mangling which was unavoidable but overall very happy with how cleanly I was able to unpick the roof. I’m hoping to sell the skin to someone who needs to fill in their sunroof hole as the center of the skin is excellent.

549B1F9C-6347-4BBF-BEDD-7047E068EEE4.jpegD8A0CD30-7B9C-4850-B4CE-D778C1F032AF.jpegF462ED84-CB03-4FD8-B6FD-CF887B3A59C5.jpeg

FA26768C-CBC7-41B5-9A6C-59B1F14043D4.jpegE693A29E-D2F8-403D-8E16-40B5FAD69BCD.jpeg1C2850CC-9A5C-45AF-A001-2D62F8AF509A.jpeg

Was surprised to find the RHS to be very clean, some pitting at the rear quarter joint but overall a good result.

E54E4B4B-CD8F-44DB-9CA7-7ECA345FC623.jpegBAF6EFA5-70EF-4938-8EB6-36B1DABEA2C2.jpeg

the LHS is a $^!# show, as expected, it’s going to take a lot of work to rebuild the whole structure, rear quarter join is completely gone. 

Yes Ryan, it is very readable now, thanks!

The progress looks good too. As mentioned, the roof to windshield pillars and roof to quarter pillars are spot welded or brazed, then filled and smoothed with lead. Using a propane torch to melt the lead out usually works well, and after installing the replacement roof using the same torch to place new lead (or the tin substitute used today) also works well.

And now, rust mitigation!

Have fun.

 

 

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