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240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena


240ZBUILTBYME

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  • 5 months later...

So it’s been a long time since I have worked on the car. 2021 proved to be a the worst year I’ve experienced so far in my short life. 

My dear mum suffered complications during surgery in January 2021, she fought the good fight but ultimately we had to let her go last year in September. I have never suffered such pain. 6 months on though I’m in a much better place.

During her stay in hospital I was still working on the car and it was a welcome distraction for me and a stress release, or maybe more of a stress replacement? :P I’m not sure.

So I will be dedicating this project to my dear mum and will change it to Project Georgia In loving memory of her.

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then in February we bought a new house and have been flat out preparing the old place for sale and moving into the new place. Bonus is the new place has an awesome man cave two car garage!

have made small progress on stripping the dash in preparation for reskinning. 

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It’s a very rough dash so I’m letting the pros deal with it.

hopefully get back to working on the car once all this house business is sorted. 

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HI Ryan!  You say: I never suffered such pain..  I know what you mean.. My mother left us .. just half an hour after i heared that I had successfully completed my education, which i worked hard for.. (i really went from high up to the lowest deepest pit..)

So.. my condolences to you.

Nice to hear that you are working on your car again!   Do you still have the 280zx and what are you going to do with it?  But first that 240 ofcourse!!  We want to see your progress! (But finish first your house and stuff..)

Mart

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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Wow! Nice dash!  If you get everything else as good as that t's gonna be a gem that 240z of yours! 😉  

Yes, it's nice to have a 280zx while your working on a 240z.. i had the opposit these last years, worked on the 280zx and drove the 240z to and from the painter and when i needed parts and all other shopping..

8 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Can’t wait to be able to shift my own gears though, the auto box is horrendous. 

 

Maybe you can look around for a Fs5w71b gearbox for your 280zx? I don't know but maybe the diff is usable from the auto? Then you need only some parts for in the car around the gearbox..

8 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

I’m in love with the zx,

Yeah, once you have driven a 280zx then you know how nice they run!  A 240 is nimble, something a 280zx is not but it drives very nice.. a 280zx is more of a GT than a sportscar.. i like that a lot.

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Hi Ryan,

So very sorry to hear about your Mum and I can sympathise completely with your situation. Unfortunately last year I had a very similar situation: On May 1st 2021 my Mum (who was my Dad's carer) fell over and hit her head very hard against a wall causing a big brain bleed. This lead to an extremely rapid onset of vascular dementia (they said the head injury "uncovered" the underlying dementia) and she died on November 14th. It was a truly dreadful time and experience. When my Dad called me to tell me of my Mum's initial fall I was in the garage preparing to put a new chassis rail on - the car has just sat in exactly the same state as I left it then until now but I think I'm about ready to get back in there.

Hope this year picks up for you and looking forward to seeing your progress - it might inspire me!

Jon.

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On 4/27/2022 at 6:24 PM, tyroguru said:

So very sorry to hear about your Mum and I can sympathise completely with your situation. Unfortunately last year I had a very similar situation:.

Thanks Jon 

my condolences for the loss your mum Jon, I don’t think we can prepare for such a heavy loss. I had 8-9 months where I was preparing for the fact that we may lose her, not thinking negatively but being prepared for all outcomes. Still hit me like a freight train when the day came. hope too that your year brings some respite from the grief and some progress on the car. 

Ryan

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On 4/27/2022 at 5:51 PM, dutchzcarguy said:

Wow! Nice dash!  If you get everything else as good as that t's gonna be a gem that 240z of yours! 😉  

Yes, it's nice to have a 280zx while your working on a 240z.. i had the opposit these last years, worked on the 280zx and drove the 240z to and from the painter and when i needed parts and all other shopping..

Maybe you can look around for a Fs5w71b gearbox for your 280zx? I don't know but maybe the diff is usable from the auto? Then you need only some parts for in the car around the gearbox..

Yeah, once you have driven a 280zx then you know how nice they run!  A 240 is nimble, something a 280zx is not but it drives very nice.. a 280zx is more of a GT than a sportscar.. i like that a lot.

Haha can’t take any credit for the dash, but yes hopefully everything else comes out as nice. Though lately I’ve been trimming my expectations and reminding myself to not let perfection become the enemy of good. It will be a street car not a show car.

I actually had a Fs5w71b come with my 240z, as I have a Silvia 71C to go into the 240z I am using the 71B in the zx. Very convenient! Ive cleaned up the 71B and had my Z guy open it up to check it over and replace all seals, he says it’s a very good candidate and happy to put in without rebuilding. I have all other parts required for the conversion already.

the diff from the auto will be fine for now but gears will be a little tall. Want to upgrade the final drive for better acceleration.

no the zx is not the most nimble particularly around town but once you’re up in the canyon roads it’s so good! With the few suspension and bracing mods I’ve done I’m really impressed with how much fun it is. 

 

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On 5/1/2022 at 11:40 PM, Namerow said:

Given that your location in Darwin is a bit off the beaten path, I'm curious to know who you used for the dash restoration work.

I’m actually in Perth. I used a local classic car parts store who also do dash restoration 

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Perth!  Well then, that explains everything:facepalm:

Your dash surface was pretty badly damaged.  It looks like the shop did an excellent job.  A bit of a head-scratcher, though, because this type of work typically requires a large vacuum chamber with heat treatment (steam, IIRC) in order to pull the new vinyl overlay down onto the restored form.  Did you get a chance to look at the equipment they use?   

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  • 2 months later...

Back in business.

my shitty cigweld 135 would not weld properly anymore, after several sessions of trying to get it to work I bit the bullet and upgraded to a unimig 185. I think for my budget it seemed the most sound choice, online reviews were all very positive.

Every single component of the unimig is far higher quality than the cigweld and it welds amazingly in comparison. Runs much hotter welds than the 135.

got a few hours in today and finished up the base of the rear rotisserie stand. still getting used to the welder, some welds were good some were bad… I’m keen to use up the last of this gasless wire….

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Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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I have a blaster coming to look at the car this week that was recommended by a restoration shop. He’s going to assess the undercoating and if he can remove it with blasting, otherwise I will have to strip it. 
he has said he can blast the car while it’s on the chassis frame which is awesome. He can lift the whole thing with chain blocks to access underneath. Downside is he’s booked till march next year…..

 This whole time I have just been trying to work towards just getting this damn thing blasted and in epoxy! and with the severity of the rust and lack of structural integrity  I wasn’t confident putting it on a rotisserie until some of the more structural rust was repaired. 

I have decided to pull all the panels off to expose all the interior sections that I know will be rusty as hell. I’ll remove the entire rear valance, rear quarter panels, roof skin. I have a few other panels I’m considering too like the front panel of the tool compartment and top wiper cowl panel. There’s a lot of rust in both those sections. 

I started experimenting with a few mechanical ways of removing undercoating 

used a oscillating multi tool with a scraper attachment on my undercoating it was not overly effective.  First photo was just the tool and second was tool followed by a knotted wire wheel.

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most effective way proved to be a strip it disc, makes quick work of it.

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the oscillating multi tool and scraper worked well on some of the sound proofing sections.

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but not so well on other parts

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yay more rust….

while I had the strip disc out I wanted to see what was under the paint on the rear quarters……there were lots of layers and much bog (bondo for you guys), I dared not do more….

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started stripping the rear slam panel as I will need to unpick it, some quality repairs from previous owners. Just a couple of tacks and she’ll be right….

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Also managed to knock off the rest of the second rotisserie frame. Now just need to finish the rear mounting assembly and the rotisserie will be done and ready to use when the time comes…

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Meeting with the blaster went well, he can take care of the undercoating for me. I just have to remove the sound proofing from the trans tunnel and rear cargo space. 

he only blasts cars and is a huge car enthusiast himself so this pleases me. He’s booked out till march which is a bummer…. But has mentioned if I get the car ready to go if someone else isn’t ready he can slot me in early. So now I have to get the car ready to go. She’s waited long enough….if I wait any longer there won’t be a car left to restore….

I want to remove the rear quarter panels, remaining rear valance and roof skin and a portion of the outer rockers so the internals can be blasted. So first I’m going to add some bracing so that A) movement is restricted as I remove body panels and B) when the car is lifted up for the underbody to be blasted there’s a bit more structural rigidity to prevent any bending of the chassis. This thing is rusty AF and I just don’t trust it. I’m probably being over cautious. 

First I decided to ditch the gasless wire and start learning with gas. I wanted to practice on 1mm first and then practice welding my 25x25x3mm shs bracing onto 1mm sheet. Was very happy with the results for my first time. Turns out watching all those YouTube videos may have helped…

first tacks

My unimig for some reason has no setting guide for 0.6mm solid wire so I had to guess the settings. I ended up finding 14 volts and 4.5 m/min worked well. Does this seem about right? And can anyone tell me what the brown discoloration is?

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all stitched up

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rear of the join, seem to be getting penetration, does this look right? 

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and after some dressing. I got warpage as I wasn’t trying to manage heat, but not too bad for a first go me thinks…

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Next welding 25x25x 3mm thick shs to 1mm sheet. no blow throughs, great success…

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I felt ready to weld in some bracing. Decided to go from the rear strut towers to the dash. 

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the welds weren’t pretty, they were awkward spots though, didn’t want to do full welds as I wasn’t confident I could remove the bracing later without damaging something so I went with decent sized tacks. Seems to be enough strength in the tacks as the bracing feels solid. 

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any feed back and thoughts on what I’ve done are welcomed. I really have no clue what I’m doing lol 

I’m planning to tie in the roof to the bracing and I think that should be enough?

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19 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

I’m planning to tie in the roof to the bracing and I think that should be enough?

Not necessary, only when you see/think that it comes back from the blaster with half a roof or so??  It's more important to check if the doors and windows fit before going to work on any paintwork and... thats not happening this year i guess..

Your bracing is good, but don't exaggerate it.. 

Nice to see you working on it again! 👍

Mart

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