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jtay

Need help with balance tube and cooling bypass

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I received my carbs from Ztherapy and I ended up with the Euro style balance tube.  Miscommunication but it looks good.  Because of this I no longer have the coolant going through the balance tube.  I did not prepare for this so I am trying to figure out how to "plug" the coolant lines that would have gone through the balance tube.  Does anyone have pictures that show how to address this or can you suggest? Thanks in advance and see my pics below.

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Coolant runs through the intake manifold and not the balance tube. Did you send them your manifold or did they supply you with a reconditioned one? If you have your old one you should be good to go. If you sent them yours it’s odd they did not send the same one back. 

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I sent mine in for a core and they sent me another one back.  Here are the pics where it is plugged up.  I really do not need it going through the intake manifold since I live in warm TX.  Here are pics.  What have others done in this situation? 

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Any advice as I need to get started putting it all back together?

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The plugs installed in the carbs by Z-Therapy mean that coolant will be present (*maybe) in each carb's coolant cavity and in the hose leading into the cavity... but it won't be flowing.  For that reason, the coolant will just assume the same temperature as its surroundings (i.e. the carb block casting).  So: if the carbs are at engine-cold condition, the coolant in the carb cavities will be the same as the carb blocks ('cold').  And if the carbs are at at engine-hot condition, the coolant in the cavities will again be the same as the carb blocks ('hot').  Put another way, the coolant will not be performing any kind of heating (or cooling) function for the carb blocks.  It will just be sitting there, 'along for the ride' as it were.

(* I say 'maybe' because it seems quite possible that coolant will never actually find its way into the carb blocks' coolant cavities when you fill the coolant system.  That's because there's no bleed hole in the carb block coolant cavity to let the air escape and the coolant enter.  I suppose that gravity might let some coolant find its way from the thermostat casting down into the front carb cavity, but I doubt whether coolant will be able to flow uphill into the rear carb cavity).

Bottom line is that you just hook up the coolant hoses to the front and rear carbs.  Job done.

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When I rebuilt my motor I decided to delete "potential" problems. I'm a Murphy's Law believer and over my lifetime that has proved beneficial for me at least. You know what us poor people say "more money, more problems". More things that can fail. Break, leak etc. so if I don't need it it gets gone. It's hot down here plus my 240 lives in a warm garage so after reading a lot of threads I decided to do away with the extra heat. The thermostats go bad and the coolant flows through the carbs all the time, at least on the set-ups I have owned.

I talked to Bruce at Ztherapy beforehand and he said just use NPT brass plugs in the soft aluminum. They would make their own threads, no need to tap the holes.

I did the thermostat housing and the rear carb's intake. I left the pipe in between the intakes though. That rascal wouldn't budge when I tried to turn it out and I didn't force it so it still looks good and isn't all bent up.

I plugged the red circles and removed the hardline behind the cylinder head. My car runs great and my carbs get cold to the touch in the winter, they are cool to the touch even in the middle of summer. I'm now race car mechanic but I'm very familiar with nitrous and know the cooler the fuel the better a motor will preform. Like I said it hot down here. LOL

Removing the carburetor water cooling lines - Help Me !! - The ...

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What Siteunseen has done achieves exactly the same net effect:  no coolant flow to the carbs.  You can do what he's done if you want.  However, the plugs put into the front and rear carb body coolant ports by Z-Therapy mean that -- for you, with your new carbs -- there's no need to do what Siteunseen has done in his set-up.  Nor do you need to worry about the pipe connecting the front and rear carbs.  It's long gone and irrelevant.

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Posted (edited)

I believe he capped it off at the red circles so I believe that is best method.  I have already done the thermostat cap but what do you do to cap it at the Y in the lower red circle.  Do I have it go from the metal Y to the little bit of hose and then find a cap that fits that hose?  Ideas on that.  Also the carbs were shipped without any oil.  Seems I need 20W oil and the only 20W oil I can find is fork oil.  Is that what I use?  Thanks again and wish me luck. I have had this apart for 5 months waiting on the carbs and I just received them and should have taken more pictures of what goes where...

Edited by jtay

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Easy peasy.  Put a pipe plug in thermostat hole.  The pressed in plugs (four) in two carb manifolds are good, or replace with pipe plugs.  Remove the "Y"  adapter, and replace with a straight piece of tubing.  Remove everything from the "Y" fitting to the thermostat.  Plug the hole in the end of the balance tube unless you need more vacuum fittings.

Check my gallery for photos, I have done what you want, except I don't run a heater core.

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1 hour ago, jtay said:

d should have taken more pictures of what goes where...

Give me a shout if you need photos. 

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I'll be the dissenting voice: I don't think you should block off everything. I think there should be a small amount of flow through the thermostat housing at all times (even when the thermostat is cold and closed). If everything is blocked off, you can run into the situation where the thermostat is sitting in a stagnant pool of liquid. Problem with that is a stagnant pool won't correctly reflect the temperature of the coolant inside the head and the thermostat could be delayed in opening.

On my 280, I'm routing coolant through my throttle body, and that coolant bypasses the thermostat. Once I installed that line the temperature gauge reads completely different than it used to. My needle starts to move much earlier than before indicating that with the previous system there was no coolant flowing around the temperature sender until much later.

So you don't have to pass the coolant through the carbs, but IMHO, there should be some flow. If you insist on blocking everything off, drill a hole in the thermostat. My experience with my 280 leads me to believe that the little jiggler hole built into the thermostat isn't enough.

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1 hour ago, panchovisa said:

Do not overfill the dash pots, doesnt take much oil!!!!!!

Actually, that's not really a big deal. If you overfill it, it will just run into the carb throat and the first time you start the car, it will just get sucked in and burned.

One little blue puff on that first start and problem solved.

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Sorry... One more thing while I'm in here.

The rubber fuel line in this pic doesn't look right to me. Looks kinked. Is that just a trick of the camera angle?

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Yep it is a little kinked on both sides.  Looks like in packaging they tried to protect it but it pushed against that cardboard.  I have been pinching it to get it to unkink.  If anyone has a picture of the Y plug or removal of the Y please post.  I do good with pictures.  Made good progress today.  Pic below. 

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Thinking I can use something like this and make a straight connect.  Just need to figure out size.

 

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That kinked float bowl to fuel nozzle hose is going to be a problem. That hose needs to be super flexible (Ztherapy hoses are silicone). Normally the problem isn't in the fuel delivery to the nozzle. Stiff hoses will bind up the nozzles, preventing them from returning to the non-choke position (up) when the choke knob is forward (off). Looking at the pic again, You might be able to relieve some of the kink by reversing the hose.

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I bought two "J" hoses from my local Nissan dealership a couple of years ago. They weren't much money but I don't remember the amount. Call your local place and tell the parts person to punch in these numbers, 16356-25610. They should be able to get them overnight, no shipping charges for you to pay either. Maybe they can still get them? I like these better than ztherapy's, Nissan's are pre-formed and will never kink. Good luck.

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