Dave WM

valve guide seals

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    purring like a kitten.

    for those that don't follow movies from the 70's see "dirty harry", that opening scene is a classic.

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    Fantastic! That's the kind of non-problem we like to hear about!

    And I knew you would get the reference my friend. I can always count on you. (And Cliff! LOL)

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    I guess the real takeaway is always always always check the obvious and listen when others tell you to check the obvious. I was so fixated on the idea that it could not have been an exhaust (since I KNEW I was not going to touch them) that somehow I had a mental block. Spouse suggested I should just roll video from start to finsh, then I could review my work and see if anything done out of order (like messing with an exhaust and then forgetting I did it). Guess this is why QC was developed.

    Edited by Dave WM
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    oh and I will triple check all the jam nuts AND will use some locktite on the spray bar nuts. Really would like to take car out, but with lockdown, only thing I can do is wait for food supply to run out before having to make a food run.

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    I had a similar occurrence once. Adjusted the valves and took it around the block. Started tapping unusually loud about halfway around the block. Got back and discovered that one of the lock-nuts had come loose and one of the valves was way too wide. So now I give them an extra little somethin when I tighten them down.

    My son has started working on his car (because I told him if he wants to have a car, he's going to do the work on it) and he will ask me questions like "Is this a small umph kind of tighten, or a full grunt?"

    I also had one jamb nut that had an issue with a burr kicked up on one of the corners of the rocker stud hex. I'm guessing my PO was using an open end wrench in there and slipped off. When that happened, he smeared a couple of the corners and the kicked up burrs was contacting the jam nut before the full flat surface. I could tell that something was wrong because the torque is supposed to shoot up rapidly as things bottom out. The one adjuster nut did not do that, but instead got tight gradually instead of all at once.

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    I dug through my pics and found some of the burrs I was talking about. I'm guessing they were caused by wrench slips:

    P1150469.JPG

    Burr from PO had been pinched under the lock nut:
    P1150471.JPG

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    good point about burrs, I liken it to the jam nut should be super easy all the way down and then get real tight real fast as it hits bottom. Any resistance along the way is bad. Sort of the same with head bolts.

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    Right. The jam nuts should be pretty much finger tight until the last small amount of turn. The one I had with that burr would get slowly and gradually tighter to the point where I was sure it was tight enough, but it didn't reach that torque in the same way as the others. The torque didn't rise rapidly like the others.

    That was on my busted cam motor. After that whole debacle, I was going over that head in pretty heavy detail just looking for other issues.

    So that wasn't what made my adjuster come loose that one time, but I was just thinking if you were going in again for anything, it's something to keep in mind.

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    I shot a short video of the difference in the used seals vs the new ones. the opening is noticeable larger on the use seals, I don't know how significant that is, given there is spring pressure to start with. I will post it up later for those interested.

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