280z Head Disassembly?

[moozieman]

18 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I can't figure out all those splatter spots.  Is it oil?  Seems hard to get that where it is unless you've used an air hose or similar to maybe clean?

Actually! Gas splatter from attempting to depressurize my fuel rail. Don't laugh at me. Haha.

[moozieman]

18 hours ago, Dave WM said:

besides leaking oil, you may have an vacuum leak (the pcv assumes an air tight valve cover). a vacuum leak there will cause problems with the EFI system as unmetered air gets sucked into the manifold.

Would one bolt effect it that much? I wanna fix it at some point, but was just putting it off. Any idea what kind of bolt that is on the valve cover? Thread pitch and whatnot?

[grannyknot]

19 minutes ago, moozieman said:

Would one bolt effect it that much? I wanna fix it at some point, but was just putting it off. Any idea what kind of bolt that is on the valve cover? Thread pitch and whatnot?

All of the valve cover bolts are M6x1 and yes it could act as a vacuum leak, best to fix it asap.  The torque spec on those bolts is 6-7 ftlbs so not very much, you could get away with just a Helicoil insert.  A Time-cert would be better but more expensive and might be overkill.

[Dave WM]

with the EFI on the z car its about the details. Get ALL ground/connections clean and solid. this includes the connections at sensors and fuel injectors. Next you need to confirm no air leaks, I do this with smoke from a cigar after blocking off the TB. blow smoke into the brake booster port on the intake manifold. Confirm things like temp sensor resistance at the 36 pin connector, the FSM covers all this.

All the above being said, since your car runs and all I can see is some white smoke from a freshly started car (not warmed up). I would suggest you make sure you have check the fuel lines (again NO LEAKS), get some oil in the trans, fix that bolt, and go drive it. running some gas thru the injectors will help clean up any varnish in there, and gas also is a good solvent for cleaning the entire top end of the engine as long as the air fuel mix is close. CARRY A FIRE EXTINGUSHER

 

[moozieman]

5 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

with the EFI on the z car its about the details. Get ALL ground/connections clean and solid. this includes the connections at sensors and fuel injectors. Next you need to confirm no air leaks, I do this with smoke from a cigar after blocking off the TB. blow smoke into the brake booster port on the intake manifold. Confirm things like temp sensor resistance at the 36 pin connector, the FSM covers all this.

All the above being said, since your car runs and all I can see is some white smoke from a freshly started car (not warmed up). I would suggest you make sure you have check the fuel lines (again NO LEAKS), get some oil in the trans, fix that bolt, and go drive it. running some gas thru the injectors will help clean up any varnish in there, and gas also is a good solvent for cleaning the entire top end of the engine as long as the air fuel mix is close. CARRY A FIRE EXTINGUSHER

 

I really appreciate your help Dave! I've referenced your youtube channel quite a few times and it's saved me once or twice. Haha. I just ordered a new valve cover gasket and see if i cant get an M6x1 tap from harbor freight. Have some things to work on this weekend. Thanks!

[siteunseen]

I've always had to get those valve cover gaskets overnighted at the local chain stores, Felpro and they're only $10 to $15.  I use ratailmenot.com for a 20% coupon code at Advance Auto.  You can buy it online and have it shipped to your local store for free.  A couple have been bent up during shipping so I refused them and got a good the next day.  It's a small difference but it got by me one time, the driver's side is a little straighter up front so be sure and set the gasket the right way or you'll have a small vacuum leak.

If you haven't done it yet it would probably be a good time to check the valve lash cold at first.  If they're bad off you will have to buy the tools and set them to spec.  I bought that stuff at Autozone, they're the only ones around here that had the right feeler gauge and the 17mm crows foot socket.  Here's a picture of what I use and it seems to work pretty good.  The more you do it the easier it'll be.  I like to write them out and "X" off the ones I've done.  You should be able to get 2 at a time, one may be on one end of the cam and one on the opposite end so that helps me keep up.  It's crazy hearing the first time but this is actually kinda fun after you understand what to do.  Post a picture of the valve train when you get the cover off, I'm nosey.  

 

This is what I learned by.  Valve adjust starts about picture 20.  Kammy's Valve Adjusting  https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105

 

[moozieman]

19 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I've always had to get those valve cover gaskets overnighted at the local chain stores, Felpro and they're only $10 to $15.  I use ratailmenot.com for a 20% coupon code at Advance Auto.  You can buy it online and have it shipped to your local store for free.  A couple have been bent up during shipping so I refused them and got a good the next day.  It's a small difference but it got by me one time, the driver's side is a little straighter up front so be sure and set the gasket the right way or you'll have a small vacuum leak.

If you haven't done it yet it would probably be a good time to check the valve lash cold at first.  If they're bad off you will have to buy the tools and set them to spec.  I bought that stuff at Autozone, they're the only ones around here that had the right feeler gauge and the 17mm crows foot socket.  Here's a picture of what I use and it seems to work pretty good.  The more you do it the easier it'll be.  I like to write them out and "X" off the ones I've done.  You should be able to get 2 at a time, one may be on one end of the cam and one on the opposite end so that helps me keep up.  It's crazy hearing the first time but this is actually kinda fun after you understand what to do.  Post a picture of the valve train when you get the cover off, I'm nosey.  

 

This is what I learned by.  Valve adjust starts about picture 20.  Kammy's Valve Adjusting  https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105

 

Ive had the cover off a few times before. Are you suggesting that the removal ruins the gasket's vacuum maintaining ability?

[Dave WM]

the gasket is fine to reuse as long as you did not stick it down on both sides with some gasket adhesive and then have it get ripped up. I used some hi tack sealant on the cover side just to make it easy to install. When I remove the cover it stays on it, so when I replace the cover I just give it a visual and if no rips or other issue I goes back on. You will know if you have problems if you have a persistent leak on the rear side by the spark plug side, that is where the oil pools up. Just go easy on how tight you bolt back on. Best practice would be to replace it every time, I finally replaced mine after many cycles when it finally develop a very minor seepage on that back side.

[moozieman]

29 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

the gasket is fine to reuse as long as you did not stick it down on both sides with some gasket adhesive and then have it get ripped up. I used some hi tack sealant on the cover side just to make it easy to install. When I remove the cover it stays on it, so when I replace the cover I just give it a visual and if no rips or other issue I goes back on. You will know if you have problems if you have a persistent leak on the rear side by the spark plug side, that is where the oil pools up. Just go easy on how tight you bolt back on. Best practice would be to replace it every time, I finally replaced mine after many cycles when it finally develop a very minor seepage on that back side.

Yep. Mine has a pretty consistent leakage all over. And im sure that the bad bolt on top isnt helping. Went ahead and bought a new gasket.

[siteunseen]

2 hours ago, moozieman said:

Ive had the cover off a few times before. Are you suggesting that the removal ruins the gasket's vacuum maintaining ability?

No, no I've had the same ones for years.  I was saying there's an ever so slight difference between the driver's side and passenger's side.  The driver's side is a little different above the thermostat housing.  Make sure and get it right or you'll have a small hole that will leak air.  Once you get one on just loosen the bolts and the gasket will stay with the valve cover.  Pull it straight up then sit it aside upside down.

[moozieman]

1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

No, no I've had the same ones for years.  I was saying there's an ever so slight difference between the driver's side and passenger's side.  The driver's side is a little different above the thermostat housing.  Make sure and get it right or you'll have a small hole that will leak air.  Once you get one on just loosen the bolts and the gasket will stay with the valve cover.  Pull it straight up then sit it aside upside down.

ohhh i understand. How can i tell which way is the correct side up?

[siteunseen]

Turn the valve cover upside down and lay the gasket down on it.  You'll see right away.