L28 full rebuild assembly

[w3wilkes]

I have no issues with the MSA 6 to 1 on my car.

[Av8ferg]

I have no issues with the MSA 6 to 1 on my car.

The car behind your Z has a header that IS hanging pretty low. Z looks good.


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[w3wilkes]

7 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

The car behind your Z has a header that IS hanging pretty low. Z looks good.
 

It's the wife's truck...

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, w3wilkes said:

It's the wife's truck...

She's a keeper!!

[siteunseen]

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

She's a keeper!!

The wife too!

[w3wilkes]

15 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

The wife too!

I will say that I saw that coming. Wasn't sure from who because there's so many possibilities!  ?

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

The wife too!

I thought I should have clarified that after posting. I knew someone would pick that up for me ?

[Captain Obvious]

Send picture of boat and motor.

[Av8ferg]

What intake/exhaust studs do you all recommend? I’m very hesitant to use the stainless ones that I came with the engine bolt kit I bought. Stainless is fine for low torque applications and while resisting rust well they don’t have the tensile strength of a good carbon steel. Also not sure about stainless and aluminum expansion differences loosening the bolts over time. I also see copper nuts available at the Z store for the exhaust portion. Anyone know why they’re copper and is that the way to go? Seems like a soft metal for this application. Anyway need hardware for the new headers that will be coming.


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[Captain Obvious]

I'm sure there are full solid copper nuts available, but most of the ones you'll find are actually copper plated steel nuts. They use the copper plating as an anti-corrosion, anti-sieze coating to prevent the nuts from rusting to the studs. I would recommend using them. They're good stuff. You can also get them in prevailing torque (distorted thread) so you can skip the lock washers and they won't come loose from the vibration and/or changes in temperature.

As for the stud portion, I used stainless because that's what my PO had installed there.

Just never ever never use stainless on stainless. It's a very hall gall risk unless you know exactly what you're doing.

[Av8ferg]

I'm sure there are full solid copper nuts available, but most of the ones you'll find are actually copper plated steel nuts. They use the copper plating as an anti-corrosion, anti-sieze coating to prevent the nuts from rusting to the studs. I would recommend using them. They're good stuff. You can also get them in prevailing torque (distorted thread) so you can skip the lock washers and they won't come loose from the vibration and/or changes in temperature.
As for the stud portion, I used stainless because that's what my PO had installed there.
Just never ever never use stainless on stainless. It's a very hall gall risk unless you know exactly what you're doing.

Thanks CO, added them to my cart.


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[Captain Obvious]

Here's what I bought:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-Flange-Exhaust-LockNut-Copper-Plated-12mm-Hex/400360273199?hash=item5d3754f52f:g:HJQAAOSwLwBafPRS

Copper plated, distorted thread, and they have a force spreading flange on them so you don't need a washer (just like stock). I bought a bag of 25 because I needed them for the broken cam motor and I should have enough left over for my F54/P79 project.