dmuzial

1977 280z Light Restoration Project

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    The plug, if it has the inverted square drive is a solid piece. So you can't snap it like a bolt. Now if the square drive doesn't fit close enough then you might could strip it but I doubt it. The cover I was working on was loose and I couldn't hold it still enough for a breaker bar. I resorted to the impact and it came right out. No problem

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    When you heat it, try to heat the aluminium and don't point the flame at the plug. You want the aluminium to warm up and expand and reduce the contact stress.

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    Thanks guys! Ended up settling on the propane rather than Mapp because the wife can also use it for some kind of cooking activity she wants to try (Yay sweets + brownie points) and I am terrified of warping the aluminum lol. 

    Going to be a little quiet on this thread for the next week as I am visiting the in-laws for the holidays. But I will post pictures of the transmission and differential clean up when I am back. Have 3 days slotted out to get dirty before the new year. 

    In the meantime, I leave you guys with my next challenge. Need to start paint touch up and light rust removal. I have two spots under the door trim (pictured below) and a little rust inside the fuel door. I have never done any body work before, are there any good tutorials on this site that walk through best practices of body rust removal and paint matching? The paint was updated 10 years ago and while it's similar to the original silver paint, its slightly warmer (less blue). Trying to reach out to the original owner (Jason from Delaware, OH if he is on the forum) to see if he knows what paint they used. Touch up does not need to be perfect, but would love it not to be immediately noticeable. The car will eventually get a full repaint, but probably not next year so I want to get ahead of any rust spreading in the meantime. 

    Happy Holidays Everyone! 

    IMG_3260-1.thumb.jpg.412278b8e3555136e5a5d8463df35035.jpg

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    1 hour ago, dmuzial said:

    Thanks guys! Ended up settling on the propane rather than Mapp because the wife can also use it for some kind of cooking activity she wants to try (Yay sweets + brownie points) and I am terrified of warping the aluminum lol. 

    So it's not out yet?  One way to make sure you use minimum heat is to put force on it while you do the heating.  It will let go when you just hit the right amount of heat.

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    The rust below the window trim actually starts up under the window trim. It then travels down lifting the paint as it goes. You really need to remove the window trim and sand down the rusty area as far as you can. Neutralize the rust then use a little primer, then touch up paint

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    16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

    So it's not out yet?  One way to make sure you use minimum heat is to put force on it while you do the heating.  It will let go when you just hit the right amount of heat.

    @Zed Head Not out yet. Wife is a nervous traveler so I was getting ready for the flight and closing up the house. Thanks for the suggestion. Will give it a spin when I get home

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    50 minutes ago, Patcon said:

    The rust below the window trim actually starts up under the window trim. It then travels down lifting the paint as it goes. You really need to remove the window trim and sand down the rusty area as far as you can. Neutralize the rust then use a little primer, then touch up paint

    Yikes. Was worried that was the case. How hard is the trim to take out? 

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    42 minutes ago, dmuzial said:

    Yikes. Was worried that was the case. How hard is the trim to take out? 

    In theory, not very hard. They snap off the metal seam at the top edge of the door. some plastic pry bars can help. Just be careful not to warp it when you pull it off.

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    On 12/20/2019 at 8:09 PM, Patcon said:

    In theory, not very hard. They snap off the metal seam at the top edge of the door. some plastic pry bars can help. Just be careful not to warp it when you pull it off.

    Does the trim itself provide the pressure? Or is there a secondary like small (breakable) clips or adhesive? 

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    Okay, I am back! And it has been a productive last couple of days. Propane torch and the jack worked great to break it loose and I was able to drain the differential of oil. I have now dropped the differential, mustache bar, cross members, drive shafts and a few other miscellaneous parts and pieces for clean up and powder coat prep.

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    Few questions:

    1. Is the propeller shaft different from the 4 speed to the 5 speed on the 77/78 280z? Saw a note of this on the Haynes manual related to 240z and 260z, but wanted to verify it was the same for 280zs as I was under the impression that the 5 speed was only an over drive gear. 

    2. I am new to restoration, is there anything I should be looking for or reconditioning on these drive shafts while they are out? (rubber, seals, grease points) and is there anything I should be wary of damaging when cleaning them up? 

    3. Is there a way to cap steel brake lines at the hub? Want to refinish the hubs, but trying to minimize how much brake fluid I waste as I just replaced it a few months ago. 

    4. How much play is considered acceptable for the input shaft from the transmission from the engine? See video below. It looks like there is roughly 1-2 mils if movement. 

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    Get a new tail shaft seal I thinks it's called.  I used one of those rubber end caps, 2" I think" on my trans end to keep it from spilling out.  That stuff is nassstayyyy!

    Z-LJpyfo5oy.JPG.jpg

     

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    For #1 ...  the driveshaft length with yours should be fine.

    For #2 ...  in the spirit of "light restoration" examine the u joints for play carefully, replace if any is detected, not costly and easy to do yourself.  If you put in greaseable joints, be sure to orient the joint so that when the half shaft rotates to give you access the the zerk fitting, it is accessible.

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    3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

    Get a new tail shaft seal I thinks it's called.  I used one of those rubber end caps, 2" I think" on my trans end to keep it from spilling out.  T

    Dang it man, where where you 2 days ago before I dumped Dino oil all over my floor. :p I had the same issue roading the 5 speed back from Detroit. The thing rolled over and dumped all over the back of my company truck. Luckily it was in a garbage bag, so it just smelled terrible but didn't hit the carpet. 

    2 hours ago, S30Driver said:

    For #1 ...  the driveshaft length with yours should be fine.

    For #2 ...  in the spirit of "light restoration" examine the u joints for play carefully, replace if any is detected, not costly and easy to do yourself.  If you put in greaseable joints, be sure to orient the joint so that when the half shaft rotates to give you access the the zerk fitting, it is accessible.

    For #1, that is amazing to hear, was worried 

    For #2, will do. Probably way easier while it is out. 

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