motorman7

"The Orange"

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    On 2/27/2020 at 9:05 PM, motorman7 said:

    More pics from the paint shop.

    Looking at these pics - I have been doing body filler on my 240z for many weekends now, and it's amazing how this car is getting bondo in mostly the same places.  I mean, my car is nearly skim coated over all panels now, but areas that take more are similar to yours - below belt line on fenders, slightly above belt line on doors and below belt line extensively, touch up areas on quarter panels, only below the parking lamps on the left and right valances, etc. 

    This car you are restoring is getting a fair amount of metal work.  Lots of hours go into that stuff.  Must be costing A LOT!  

    Edited by inline6
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    On 3/2/2020 at 4:38 PM, inline6 said:

    This car you are restoring is getting a fair amount of metal work.  Lots of hours go into that stuff.  Must be costing A LOT!  

    Yes, I didn't realize that the floor pan was so bad.  It was covered up with Dynamat on top and undercoating on the bottom.  The rust in the frame rails was obviously pretty bad as well and not visible until it was opened up.  For the previous restorations, the body and paint work was almost exactly 1/3 the cost of the total restoration cost.  For this one it will be more....almost half I am guessing.  Fortunately, the owner has a good number of parts on hand which should make things go easier.

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    Fuel and brake lines came back from Sav-On Plating. Parts look awesome and cost was very reasonable.

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    9 hours ago, motorman7 said:

    Fuel and brake lines came back from Sav-On Plating. Parts look awesome and cost was very reasonable.

    Very nice!  I need my lines done also.  Is what's shown in you pictures lines for more than one car?  I need to look back through your build thread to find what you did for prep on those.  Any tips to pass along before I ship all the lines out?  

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    14 hours ago, inline6 said:

    Very nice!  I need my lines done also.  Is what's shown in you pictures lines for more than one car?  I need to look back through your build thread to find what you did for prep on those.  Any tips to pass along before I ship all the lines out?  

    For prep, it was mostly wire wheel on the end fittings and any overspray that was on the tubes.  I used 220 grit sandpaper on the tubes themselves till the tubes were mostly clean. 

    It's best if you can use a 6 foot box so the tubes only have to bend in half.  Bending into thirds because you only have a 4 foot box is tricky and not recommended.   the bends end up being where the engine to trans area is and there are lots of bends there already , so gets confusing.  Also, when you straighten the tubes, the plating will crack in the bend area when you straighten them.  You can touch this are up with gold paint.  With the bend in the tunnel, it is not super noticeable.

    These tubes will be 'Rack plated' so don't send your bulk parts (nuts and bolts) with the tubes, send bulk parts separately.  There is a Lot charge for the Rack plating, so you can add a few extra tubes and it's essentially free. The tubes in the picture are for two cars.

    Also, very thrilled with how the plating turned out.  Coloring, rainbow and brightness appear to be just perfect.

     

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    Got the exhaust manifold back with ceramic coating.  Also picked up an air galley from JDM-Car-Parts.com.  Will tap the ports and loosely install.  Will do final install when motor is in car.

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    Cleaning and prepping small parts here.  Also sending out final batch of parts to the plating shop.

    I am surprised that Motorsports does not yellow zinc plate their engine parts (two shown below) but it works out fine as I am sending parts to the pate shop anyway.

    Disassembled the bumpers to prep for new chrome plating.  Looks like the bumperette rubber is in descent shape and can be re-used. That is good news as those peices are pretty hard to find.  The trim rubber is cracked and oxidized so we will replace those.

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    Cleaned and painted the front grill. 

    Also, got a new fuel pump and installed that.   Looks much nicer and closer to the original  than the standard auto part fuel pump.  I had an old original style pump that I removed the screws and fittings from and sent out with the last batch of plating parts.  I will probably swap out the clear zinc fasteners and fitting for the yellow zinc parts once they come back from the plating shop just to get a bit closer to the original look.

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    Here are the latest pics from the body shop. We are pretty far along on the outside portion of the body, doglegs and inner panels have been fixed along with a number of other rust areas.  Once the floor pans are finished up we should be in pretty good shape.

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    Exciting!  Everything is looking great.  Can't wait until you have it back and start putting it together.

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    11 minutes ago, The Orange said:

     Can't wait until you have it back and start putting it together.

    Same here. This is always the longest part of the project.  Engine, suspension and drivetrain are all ready to install once the body shows up.

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    Cleaned and painted the drive shaft today......now I just need a car 😀

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    Started polishing the slotted mags.  Will have to check the date on the tires here as they seem to be older and may need to be replaced.  They are Uniroyal 'Tiger Paws'.  I am old enough to remember the commercial for these tires.

     Getting a  little impatient here waiting for the body.

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    Edited by motorman7

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    1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

    It's always a good day when the freshly plated parts comes in, never gets old.

    I totally agree, my wife calls it car jewelry!

    Edited by motorman7
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    More pics from the body shop. It is really getting pretty close now.  Nice to see.

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    On 4/20/2020 at 1:44 PM, motorman7 said:

    Got parts back from the plating shop. They always do very nice work.

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    Really enjoy seeing you making progress.  I was thinking about getting one of these to do the prep work on the hardware before sending it off.  Any thoughts on using a tumbler vs. hand prepping with wire wheel?    

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mG4h-TU92-A

    I need to start prepping everything so I can send everything to be plated, but only have a 4.5 grinder (on which I can put a wire wheel attachment) - not a buffer on a stand with a wire wheel.

    Edited by inline6

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    7 hours ago, inline6 said:

    Any thoughts on using a tumbler vs. hand prepping with wire wheel?

    I have one of those tumblers and if you have lots of time and somewhere to put it where you don't have to listen to it all the time, it's quite loud, then you can gets good results. There is a learning curve on all the different kinds of media you can use, whether or not you add liquid ...

    Hard to beat a HD wire wheel for speed though.

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    12 hours ago, inline6 said:

    Really enjoy seeing you making progress.  I was thinking about getting one of these to do the prep work on the hardware before sending it off.  Any thoughts on using a tumbler vs. hand prepping with wire wheel?    

    I have never used a tumbler.  Usually I use the wire wheel on  my bench grinder for a light cleaning.

    Also, I have found that platers differ in what they will do prior to plating your parts.  The plating shop just down the road here requires that I have all the parts stripped and in very good shape before plating, so it is a lot of work.  Also, I think their finish is a bit too dark and not enough shine or rainbow.

    The place I use in Phoenix is great and I do very little prep on the parts. I just wire wheel the heavily rusted items and parts with paint on them.  I am pretty sure that they tumble and clean the parts before plating.  I noticed the the rubber on some of the parts, like the oil pressure cable support on the engine mount, or the speedo cable supports have the rubber pretty beaten up, and almost falling off.  I just re-dip those parts in the liquid plastic stuff.  The finish on the parts is just about perfect.

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    Your Steering Rack looks great. I am getting all of my suspension parts ready for powder coating. Did you just paint your steering rack? I am trying to decide what to do with the upper and lower shaft on mine. The small U joints appear to be "Staked" in place. I have been replacing any wear parts when possible for what will hopefully be the next 50 years of driving my car but I am not sure its worth trying to dismantle those joints. From other posts it looks like those little joints may be hard to come by and difficult to remove. Maybe just paint them and the Shafts with the joints in place?

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    13 minutes ago, Clay C said:

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    Your Steering Rack looks great. I am getting all of my suspension parts ready for powder coating. Did you just paint your steering rack? I am trying to decide what to do with the upper and lower shaft on mine. The small U joints appear to be "Staked" in place. I have been replacing any wear parts when possible for what will hopefully be the next 50 years of driving my car but I am not sure its worth trying to dismantle those joints. From other posts it looks like those little joints may be hard to come by and difficult to remove. Maybe just paint them and the Shafts with the joints in place?

    Yes, I stripped and painted the steering rack gloss black.  I also lubed the assembly near the steering input and the rack portion at both ends.  Then cycled the rack back and forth to work the grease in.  Installed new boots.

    For the steering input shaft that attaches to the rack, I usually just clean and paint.  The U-joint is typically in pretty good condition.  If it were loose, I would replace it. 

    Also, for what it is worth, I think the Japanese bearings on the Z cars are very high quality.  Unfortunately most replacement bearings are Chinese and I don't think the quality is as good as the originals.

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    Pics from the paint shop.  Got the grey primer on now.....we're getting closer.

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