Av8ferg

L28 from 82 ZX teardown

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    My guy asked about the rings I'd be using.  Different honing for steel versus chrome faced.  May be just him but I'd ask if I were you or research it out yourself.

    I saw that in the book. Using OEM Nissan rings. Will do the research.


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    If head is warped was there any talk about straightening 1st or milling both sides. All having to do with keeping the cam journals in line when you go back to bolt it on.

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    If I ever do this (take a head to a shop) I am going to be very aware of warpage before it goes, and how well the cam spins before I remove the head and after I put it back on after machine work. Trying to avoid a CO like fail on the shaft.

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    If head is warped was there any talk about straightening 1st or milling both sides. All having to do with keeping the cam journals in line when you go back to bolt it on.

    I think this is part of the inspection the shop is going to do. There were no visible leaks on the head gasket and the yard said compression was consistent across all cylinders when they did its arrival assessment. Good points and I’ll ask whenI call them.


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    While I wait for my block and head to be completed I’ve started to clean up my intake manifold and will refresh all connections and sensors. I had these parts for the fuel rail for about a year so I finally got to building it up. I wanted to streamline the fuel delivery layout away from the rusty looking trombone rail that comes stock. This aluminum rail was $40 on eBay. I had to drill and tap all the openings execpt the ends which just needed tapping with a tap 1/4 NPT. Got all the bibs and tap from Fastenal. Tap was almost as much at the rail at around $30. Brass Bids were very cheap too.
    Whole deal cost me about $80 and about 70 mins of work.

    4d726b74c50531428b82c6ac67dedfc3.jpg


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    That looks familiar. :victorious:

    When you get a minute plug up the barbs for the injectors and hook a fuel pump up, check for leaks before you install it.  I had to find a better thread sealer as mine leaked a little.  Looks damn good!

     

    Edited by siteunseen
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    That looks familiar. :victorious:

    I’m sure it does...I copied yours


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    Anybody know the purpose of these hex plugs under the intake? Should I remove them to clean this whole thing?
    2f38b5a668c882d93129c70c365ba73d.jpg
    1b1f7ffe8b37903a44f9664677991d34.jpg


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    Hey, can you guys take a look at the close ups of my timing chain cover. I’m not sure if these are cracks, a failure of some coating or part of the die casting process. They look like hairline cracks to me and they feel rough to the touch. Anyone else have those?
    4502ff4102322456eabf9ba5c272d4bd.jpgff515c9359810c051aadbe51368bec70.jpg540a8fa9c416f2eb1cf77da4f7f2ebeb.jpgcc9c5e59358eb2260201dde835fc2ea8.jpg36e110646a4f9d661268eb6b4c2e7674.jpg55622c77fc32fd58988780007cce35b5.jpg5b1820b0f88f971b26336ede85d6e514.jpg

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     I've seen faint spider webbing on those casting in the past but nothing as prominent as those and never in those locations. 

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    you can buy them new for 75 direct from japan (I have one on the way) with expensive shipping its about 115$ I got one since I was nervous about reading how you need to check the boss the distributer shaft goes thru can wear and if it does need to replace the casting. I am sure that's overkill, seems like you could press in a sleeve, but anyway got me to looking and found it an Amaya. Anyway I will report what comes in the mail when it gets here. Paranoia strikes deep into your life it will creep...

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    I think I have an extra front cover. I'll dig it out Saturday and send you some pics. Your's if you want it.

    Another thing, that tunnel just has exhaust soot in it. You could take it to a spray car wash and blast it with hot soapy water.

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    So, I sanded one of the areas I saw the spider cracks and I think it’s fine. I used 320 grit followed by 1500. Check it out now.

    Any seconds?

    dffa7e2713f1eb7284aeb71f71278147.jpg9ad54d2c9f3deaff481f207ebe7ff01e.jpg


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    you can buy them new for 75 direct from japan (I have one on the way) with expensive shipping its about 115$ I got one since I was nervous about reading how you need to check the boss the distributer shaft goes thru can wear and if it does need to replace the casting. I am sure that's overkill, seems like you could press in a sleeve, but anyway got me to looking and found it an Amaya. Anyway I will report what comes in the mail when it gets here. Paranoia strikes deep into your life it will creep...

    So you bought a new front cover? Why? Didn’t follow what you said about the dizzy shaft?


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    the cover has a journal inside that the dissy shaft runs up thru. if it wollows out they say to replace the whole cover. Besides 100$ did not seem like too much just in case.

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    A little lite wire wheel and elbow grease and these cleaned up nice. All cracks are no longer visible.

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    I think that timing cover is fine. Those little lines are just imperfections from the original casting. I see you already sanded them off. Good... Non-problem.

    As for the hex plugs in the intake manifold... As mentioned above, they cast a cavity that runs the length of the manifold to distribute the recirculated gasses from the exhaust (EGR). But that cavity does not have any connection up to the intake runners because it was impossible to cast that way. So those plugged holes are the access holes they used to add in the holes between the shared EGR log and the individual intake runners.

    I haven't pulled those plugs or sectioned a manifold to see for sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if the holes they drilled up into the runners are different lengths depending on how far they are from the EGR valve. Just a guess on my part.

    In any event, they drilled small access holes up into the runners and then tapped and plugged the access holes below. And they thread-locked the steel hex plugs in place. I tried to take one out as well and couldn't get it out. I suspect a bunch of heat would make them easier to get out, but I was doing this on the car. Next to the fuel rail.    :excl:

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    @Av8ferg, Last page you were talking about rod bolt positioning... I was messing around with my pistons a little today and I came up with what I believe is a reliable witness mark for the rod bolts rotational position.

    During installation of the rod bolts and nuts, it's the oval shaped head of the bolt that keeps the bolt from turning while you tighten the nut on the other side of the bearing cap. Because of this feature, the oval bolt head contacts the rod in one spot as the night is tightened, and (on my pistons at least), this resulted in clean spot witness marks where the two were in contact with each other. Here's some pics.

    During tightening, the bolt head will rotate in the recess in the bore in the direction of the tightening torque applied. Looks like this:
    P1160006.JPG

    And because of this, there's a little clean spot on the connecting rod where the bolt oval made contact:
    P1160004.JPG

    And a corresponding clean spot on the oval bolt head:
    P1160005.JPG

    It's pretty small and you might need some magnification to find it, but if yours look like mine, you should be able to use these marks to determine the original rotational position of the bolts. Assuming you've got the original bolts in the original holes, this should allow for positive ID for original rotation.

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    Captain, I’m going to look today and see if there is any marks like that on mine. I thought I took a close look already for witness marks but now I know exactly what to look for, thanks.

    BTW, I grabbed a non-EGR head from one of the 75s in that yard. They only wanted $40 (that’s for the intake, heat shields, throttle body, injectors and all sensors on the head) so I figured why not grab it. Haven’t decided if I’ll use this or the ZX intake. 45233285c16c11ca3623145d880e193b.jpg

     

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