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Captain Obvious

My Throttle Cable Conversion

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You did make TWO sets of these, yes?

You KNOW I need this, yes?

😀😛😊

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Wait... Isn't it clear that I'm pretty much always feeling a little OCD?   LOL

Thanks for the offer. Might take you up on that during salt season.

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So about the cable itself... I started with a Honda Civic cable. 96-2000 will work. I think there might be some slight differences in length, but they are all longer than necessary, so it doesn't matter. Here's what I started with:
P1130679.JPG

I cut the original pedal termination off so I could pull the cable out of the sheath. I tried a couple different methods and I found a dremel cutting disk worked best for this Just go slow and let the disk cut. If you try to force it through, you'll blue the cable and fray the strands. After I cut the termination off, I pulled the cable out of the sheath and used the same Dremel cutting disk to shorten the sheath. Here's the tool I used:
P1130843.JPG

Now, since I cut off the original termination, I needed a way to replace it once I had shortened the cable. Inspiration hit while I was messing with the Dremel... I made an adjustable cable end stop based on the Dremel collet system. This allowed me to set the cable length by tightening up the collet where the length was within the adjustablility range of the lock-nuts out in the engine compartment. After going through the effort to make this collet system, I wouldn't do it again. I would just use a block with a hole through it and a locking screw to squish the cable. Once you have the cable length set, you should never need to adjust this again ever. When I first did this, I had no idea how many times I would need to adjust the cable length to get it right. In the end, I didn't have to adjust the termination more than once and it turns out that I put way more effort into this part than I really needed to. It's pretty though:
P1130705.JPG

So here's the whole under-dash setup. Note that this pic has my first design feedthrough for the fireawll with the threads and ring on the other (inconvenient) side. I made as second one with the threads on the other side so to minimize the under-dash wrenching. The collet lock works great, but is really overkill:
P1130711.JPG

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Just a couple additional thoughts and pics. In a few application specific locations, the Civic cable includes some outer layer protective covering (over the cable sheathing). They use these short covering stubs in areas where there is a cable clamp or where there is a high risk of abrasion. It's another outer layer of protection for the cable inside.

These areas are held in place (to keep them from sliding up and down the cable) by crimped metal rings. I found the hex crimped rings are usually jussssst loose enough that you can slide the protective covering up and down the cable a little if you really try. Here's one of the protected areas where you can see the metal rings on the ends. I was able to move this outer cover around to get it into a spot where I wanted it:
P1130929.JPG

And here's where I wanted it... I nabbed a throttle cable clamp off (something) and attached it to one of the unused holes in my intake manifold. Slid the outer protective cover so it was centered where the clamp would be in the middle. This keeps the cable from flopping around:
P1140237.JPG

And earlier, I admitted overkill on my underdash pedal termination lock. If I were doing it again, something like this would be just fine. Put on a washer with a tiny hole in it, and then put one of these on. This one is Dorman P/N 03337. Not as glamorous, but would work just fine. Less than five bucks off the shelf:
03337-007.JPG

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21 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Wait... Isn't it clear that I'm pretty much always feeling a little OCD?   LOL

Say it isn't so.... LOL

21 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

So about the cable itself... I started with a Honda Civic cable. 96-2000 will work. I think there might be some slight differences in length, but they are all longer than necessary, so it doesn't matter.

I see what is on my 'to do list' for tomorrow. @Captain Obvious - trade you some HVAC parts for some brackets. No plating necessary. 😉

Oh, the good news, she wasn't the 'bucking bronco' on the drive back.... Smooth as silk. But, I did hear a troublesome 'clunk' on a right hand ramp. Will bring it to the DIY garage on Sunday to investigate.

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Haha!! Glad to hear your drive home from Zcon was less whiplashy than the trip there.  :beer:

For those of you who weren't at Zcon and haven't heard any of the stories... Once you got @wal280z's car up to cruising RPM, it had two throttle positions:

1) Accelerating, and
2) Face through the windshield

There was no in-between. Digital.

So there is clearly a couple issues going on that made it very uncomfortable to drive. (As a side note, I'm thinking it's something like high intake vacuum from a freshly rebuilt strong engine and a BCDD that is not working at all.) But it wasn't the time or place to fix the real root problem(s), but as a bush fix, we disconnected the TPS connector. That way the ECU would not know that the pedal was in the idle position and would not trigger the fuel cut. It was a successful Band-Aid that made the car a lot easier to drive. Didn't fix the problem, but at least masked it enough to make the car a lot easier to drive.

So, Wayne... I'd be happy to help you with a cable conversion, but you've got other things you need to work out as well! Of course, I'm touting my throttle body conversion in conjunction with the cable. With the two of them, my car is the smoothest ever. I wish I had it with me in Atlanta so you could have given it a try!

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1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

I wish I had it with me in Atlanta so you could have given it a try!

Branson!!!

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