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motorman7

We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

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Yeah, it's a much cheaper and more forgiving than the original "crush to fit" Nissan style filter.

I was poking around on ebay a little today and here's the parallel filter for Toyota's valve timing system. This one has fingers on the interior end that could be cut off if desired:
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And another shot of the Hyundai part. This one has that nice tapered seat at the interior end:
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The point is... The threaded hex caps are relatively easy to make. If you can find a filter with the open end that's the correct diameter to seal on the face down inside the carb body, you could have a cap made for the other end to account for a slightly different length. I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't something out there that's close to what you need.

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Chunks of rubber that have deteriorated and come off the inside of the fuel line? Rusty dust from inside the fuel rail? Pieces of the fuel pump diaphragm? Small rocks?

To be honest, I was running a quality paper filter on the passenger side of the engine compartment and no filters in the carbs. I could sleep at night.

At this point for me, it's just the challenge to get something that fits and works that has me spending cycles on it.   :geek:

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1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

To be honest, I was running a quality paper filter on the passenger side of the engine compartment and no filters in the carbs. I could sleep at night.

Agreed. Use a good paper filter and change it regularly when it needs it.

We are going into the weeds with this, but for a good reason. Datsun didn't do things on these cars just for $hits and giggles. I want it there because the designers put it there---but I'm a little obsessive about all of it. :ENVOUTER:

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

At this point for me, it's just the challenge to get something that fits and works that has me spending cycles on it.

Thanks to your inquiring mind and pursuit of solutions Capt'n there are workarounds for quite a few issues. I salute you sir!

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@Mike

Could you change the topic image of this thread??

The current image is a shot of my 73 exhaust manifold that I placed in the thread many pages ago and should not be the introductory photo to the wonderful archival material Rich has compiled.

Being biased, I would suggest using this one--- which exemplifies in one photo the very essence of the thread title. "We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!"

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Thanking you  muchly for any assistance with this request, I am!

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1 hour ago, Zup said:

@Mike

Could you change the topic image of this thread??

The current image is a shot of my 73 exhaust manifold that I placed in the thread many pages ago and should not be the introductory photo to the wonderful archival material Rich has compiled.

Being biased, I would suggest using this one--- which exemplifies in one photo the very essence of the thread title. "We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!"

Thanking you  muchly for any assistance with this request, I am!

Hi @Zup, I'll see if I can change it.  The image is automatically loaded so I'm not sure if I can change it.  I'll look around in the admin functions to see if it's possible.

Mike

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11 hours ago, Zup said:

pursuit of solutions Capt'n there are workarounds for quite a few issues.

I like this kind of replacement part stuff, especially if you can find something that's cheap and easy to obtain and hidden (so it still looks stock from the outside).

If it weren't so cold, I'd be out at the junkyard pulling VVT oil filters out of heads and measuring them. But it's just too cold for my fingers. I got issues...   :unsure:

 

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19 hours ago, Zup said:

@Mike

Could you change the topic image of this thread??

The current image is a shot of my 73 exhaust manifold that I placed in the thread many pages ago and should not be the introductory photo to the wonderful archival material Rich has compiled.

Being biased, I would suggest using this one--- which exemplifies in one photo the very essence of the thread title. "We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!"

DSCF7489.JPG

Thanking you  muchly for any assistance with this request, I am!

As the owner of the Z and the flat tops that are the subject of this thread, I completely support this idea. 

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Made some nice progress this weekend.  Got the front grill and bumper brackets installed.  Got the differential restraining strap, differential and half shafts installed.  The differential went in pretty easy with my new Costco jack.  Just set the diff on the large rubber pad and lifted it into place.

Also, @jayhawk stopped by to look the car over.  Glad he was able to see the car in person, instead of just the pics.

 

 

 

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Edited by motorman7
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Are your half shaft boots banded? I’m still waiting for the banding tool to arrive so I can get mine done.

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What finish did you useonr the grill?

Do you intend to use the same for the rear finisher panel and wheel covers?

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1 hour ago, wheee! said:

Are your half shaft boots banded? I’m still waiting for the banding tool to arrive so I can get mine done.

Yes, boots are banded and painted black.

 

1 hour ago, Zup said:

What finish did you useonr the grill?

Do you intend to use the same for the rear finisher panel and wheel covers?

Sprayed with Dupli-color 'Dark Shadow Gray' then clear coat 'matte clear'.  Yes, I will use this for the rear finisher panel.  Car will retain the original dealer supplied mags, but I do also use this for  hub caps.  Les Cannady at Classic Datsun Motorsports used to sell this custom made, but he says it is no longer available due to California paint standards.  The Dark Shadow Gray and matte clear is now what he currently uses.  It is pretty close to the original.

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On 1/26/2019 at 11:37 AM, Zup said:

Good stuff here!

Interested to know, what were the charges were for the dry film coating of the throttle shafts?

The EGR valve plating looks great! Did you have them plate the entire assembly or did you find a way to disassemble the diaphragm mounting portion from the cast iron base?

Have any of the plated items with internal cavities (tubing, housings, etc.) exhibited bleed out from the plating process that discolored or degraded the surface plate finish?

@Careless described this issue and his use of silicone and plugs to prevent it, as he had the plating done for a restoration he was doing.

I'm late to the party, but just to expand on the idea; I actually swiped some RTV over the holes with my finger, let it cure, then tumbled it for a short while to remove any fine residual RTV on the face where I smeared the holes. The servo housing thickness was enough for the RTV to grab hold of and stay in place.

Once plated, I picked the RTV plugs out, and picked the RTV around the threaded plunger hole that I smeared there as well to prevent acid and plating solution ingress from that area too.

You can buy silicon tapered plugs that might fit just as well, but the cone shape is not ideal for retaining grip for holding them in if they are being waved around during plating agitation, and you'd have to RTV the plunger shaft anyway.

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On 3/6/2019 at 6:50 AM, Careless said:

I'm late to the party, but just to expand on the idea; I actually swiped some RTV over the holes with my finger, let it cure, then tumbled it for a short while to remove any fine residual RTV on the face where I smeared the holes. The servo housing thickness was enough for the RTV to grab hold of and stay in place.

Once plated, I picked the RTV plugs out, and picked the RTV around the threaded plunger hole that I smeared there as well to prevent acid and plating solution ingress from that area too.

You can buy silicon tapered plugs that might fit just as well, but the cone shape is not ideal for retaining grip for holding them in if they are being waved around during plating agitation, and you'd have to RTV the plunger shaft anyway.

I actually tried this (may  have read it on one of your posts on a different thread) but I experienced mixed success.  The RTV stayed put on some items and not on others.  Not sure why that was. Your 'in house' tumbling is probably a big help since you can see if the RTV held or not.

 

Got the transmission and drive shaft cleaned up and installed.  Also picked up an Exedy Clutch kit from Rockauto. Installed the throwout bearing on the sleeve and installed on the transmission along with the fork.   I will drop the motor in next weekend.

Had to throw in an engine bay before pic just for reference.

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What drove the choice to mate the engine to the tranny in the car? It is so much easier to do out of the car but a little more challenging to place in the car as one piece

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11 hours ago, Patcon said:

What drove the choice to mate the engine to the tranny in the car? It is so much easier to do out of the car but a little more challenging to place in the car as one piece

Two reasons really: 

One, I have always done it this way.  I actually find it pretty easy to do it this way and can usually do the whole process by myself.  The only tricky part is the final mate in getting the trans shaft splines to line up with the clutch plate splines.  Usually just a little rocking of the motor does the trick.  Also, I am not lifting as much weight.

Second, my garage ceiling is a bit low and not really sure if I can get the height I need when the two are mated.  I can touch my garage ceiling when standing on my toes, so maybe its 8.5 feet high.  I haven't tried it, so I can't say for sure, but I am thinking it would be an issue.  My driveway is sloped, so that wouldn't work as an alternate location.  Would have to move to the street to get flat surface and not really sure that I want to do that, cause then I have to push it up hill into the garage.

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2 hours ago, motorman7 said:

Two reasons really: 

One, I have always done it this way.  I actually find it pretty easy to do it this way and can usually do the whole process by myself.  The only tricky part is the final mate in getting the trans shaft splines to line up with the clutch plate splines.  Usually just a little rocking of the motor does the trick.  Also, I am not lifting as much weight.

Second, my garage ceiling is a bit low and not really sure if I can get the height I need when the two are mated.  I can touch my garage ceiling when standing on my toes, so maybe its 8.5 feet high.  I haven't tried it, so I can't say for sure, but I am thinking it would be an issue.  My driveway is sloped, so that wouldn't work as an alternate location.  Would have to move to the street to get flat surface and not really sure that I want to do that, cause then I have to push it up hill into the garage.

That all makes sense. I have always found it a pain to get the input shaft engaged so I avoid that process if possible.

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Got a few more bits and pieces done, prepping for the engine install on Saturday.  Got the transmission cover cleaned and painted.  Also got the Flywheel surfaced.  I finished polishing the two rear mags and got the Bridgestones mounted.   Installed those on the rear.  Cleaned up the clutch master cylinder and cleaned up the Brake booster.  Really looking forward to getting the motor in.  @jayhawk is going to drop by and help out with that.  Motor should look pretty nice once in the engine bay

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Gotta say I just love your work!!  Jayhawk will have himself a brand new Z.  Better than new   

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1 hour ago, Sunline said:

Gotta say I just love your work!!  Jayhawk will have himself a brand new Z.  Better than new   

More than just a brand new 1973 Z, I'm counting on it being my Fountain of Youth.  It will make me 24 years old again!  (No pressure, Motorman...:-)

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I feel ya, I will be getting mine back next week. Going back in time to when I was 20. Will post up

Edited by Sunline
Typing

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