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Grubb240Z

Need advice on brake rotors for '72 240Z

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I need to replace the rotors on the '72 240Z I got in December. The rotors are badly grooved, both brakes are now howling once they get warm and the car is pulling left under braking. This car is my son's daily driver. Not a track toy. Looking for reliable braking with maximum longevity (there are plenty of other things to spend time/money on :))

I have a couple of questions:

1) Is there much benefit to moving up to slotted/drilled disks? Would they wear out my pads faster? The current brakes are capable of overwhelming the traction, so it doesn't seem like I need more power. Not interested in going to slotted if there's no benefit. Down the road I'm sure I'll upgrade the brakes entirely. For now, using stock calipers, etc.

2) Anybody have a recommended source for the rotors? The first place I thought of was Motorsport Auto, which, aside from online options is also just a few minutes from my house. Here is their listing for stock rotors: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21a04/24-5031 

I suppose I'll rely on YouTube for how-to videos on how to remove and replace the rotors. I haven't done it before.

Thanks!

 

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Motorsport's price isn't bad.  Don't forget about shipping costs though.  Rockauto has a selection.  And, your local auto store can probably get them.  The advantage there is that if they don't fit or are out of balance, you can return them.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

Or, you might think about having them turned.  I had some truck rotors turned at the local NAPA shop and they did a great job.  They can turn them while they're still on the hubs, so that you don't have to replace the bearings.  Plus, they should keep their balance, and runout won't be affected.  The grooves might look bad but you have to measure to know.

Many options.  Slotted rotors these days are mostly for looks.  Because race car.  New vehicles don't generally come with slots, or holes, in the rotors.  Plus, they're prone to cracking.

Edited by Zed Head

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I too would go with having them turned but you may find the cost of turning them very close to buying new ones.

If you have Advance auto out there check their price then go to retailmenot.com and get a 30% coupon code. Its been 8 years ago but just basic rotors were $20 each after the discount. And if I remember right that was what charged per rotor for a cut.

I bought drilled and slotted from amazon but like Zed said it was for looks. You can see mine through the wheels I have. Painted remanufactured calipers red, it all looks good. The ceramic pads I used got rid of the horrible squeal all Zs I've owned have.

I'll find my thread on that when u get my laptop out in the morning. Some good info on replacing the races, how to get the old ones out and seat the new ones DIY style. Torque value too.

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I ordered the stock-style rotors from Rockauto after checking with the major local players (O'rielly, AutoZone, etc.). Hoping they'll get here before the weekend. In the meantime, I'll probably stop by Motorsport Auto's physical location, which is near my home and pick up some pads.

Any advice on the brake pad compound that is best for stopping power (and low on howling/screeching)? I'm not really concerned with longevity - they are cheap and easy to replace.

Thanks!

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I've been using Centric brand rotors on the race car for the last few years and they've held up well. I get them from Rock Auto or Amazon. I also use their aluminum drums. We use Carbotech pads. They make several different compounds. Check their website and/or email them with questions. They're easy to deal with.

Chuck

 

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4 hours ago, Grubb240Z said:

(and low on howling/screeching)? I'm not really concerned with longevity - they are cheap and easy to replace.

I almost commented about shims the first time around.  Get the shims, for behind the pads, if you don't already have them.  MSA says that they only have one side but you can break the tabs off and make them work.  The tabs are for convenience during installation.  Some people don't have the problem with no shims but they are a guaranteed solution and don't hurt anything f they're still flat.

If you live by MSA you can always get them later, easily, and take the pads off one more time.

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18 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I like my ceramic pads, no squeal or dust and it seems like they are Carbotech too.

I looked in my file and they are Wagner ceramics from amazon.con.  $25

 

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Thanks. The guy at Motorsport Auto I talked to was telling me that metallic will give the best stopping power but less longevity than ceramic. I didn’t ask him about noise comparison between the two and I should have. That is a key factor for me. I don’t want them to squeal. I would much rather replace them more often than deal with screeching brakes.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 

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Search "240z shim squeal" "280Z shim squeal" on your favorite search engine.  See what you see...

Edit - or just take a chance.  Then you'll have the true knowledge of before and after.  Won't hurt you.  My experience was that it's not the pads.

Edited by Zed Head

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Seems odd to me they call them "shims".  Backing plate maybe?

Here is something I found on the www.

"They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI™) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component."

They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component.

They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component.

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32 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

You're exactly right!

I really like mine too. Good stopping and never heard a sound from them. Maybe all the newer pads figured it out now but when I was in high school in the '80s I was constantly embarrassed by my 280 squealing.  It was horrible. 4 Pioneer TS6907s with a Nakamechi Dragon head and Sony 400 watt amp fixed it. LOL

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I am not aware of slotted rotors cracking unlike the cross-drilled ones. Those don't make any sense in regards to cooling as the brake pads block any hot gases whereas the slotted ones allow those gases to escape.

I currently run slotted vented rotors on the race car but I had them cryo and REM treated so they aren't stock.

A mostly stock Z doesn't need vented, slotted or cross-drilled, just a nice set of pads.

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I picked up the Stop Tech "Posi-Quiet" ceramic pads at Motorsport Auto and we did the job yesterday (Sunday). Everything went well, and the brakes and new rotors are working perfectly. No noise whatsoever and it appears all the parts we took off ended up back on the car (always a good thing).

The pads came with the "backing plates" or "shims" already installed. We put a little grease on them before installation. All required hardware was there (plus some kind of wire clips, which I assume are for installation on another kind of car).

The only canundrum I dealt with was what to do with the calipers once I removed them to take off the old rotors (I didn't want to have to do any bleeding). I assumed those strange clips on the struts that secure the brake lines would allow me to slide the line out after I pulled the tension clip out. I was wrong. I see that some people modify the bracket, adding a slot so they can slide the line out. I was able to rotate the caliper out of the way to remove the rotor and then put them back and hold them in place with the normal mounting bolts. No problem.

Successful project!

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1 hour ago, edearman said:

Sounds like your “right side” caliper is stuck and not working thus causing the car to pull when braking.

Nominate for the "latest to the party".

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50 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Reading comprehension,  "successful project".

Mike needs to fix that glitch that allows people on the app to edit their comments and have it look like they never happened.  Pretty sure the first post was from tapatalk.

Not a good look edearman!  No hiding on this forum.

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Mike needs to fix that glitch that allows people on the app to edit their comments and have it look like they never happened.  Pretty sure the first post was from tapatalk.
Not a good look edearman!  No hiding on this forum.

Sorry for trying to help...it won’t happen again.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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On 4/10/2018 at 2:59 PM, Zed Head said:

I almost commented about shims the first time around.  Get the shims, for behind the pads, if you don't already have them.  MSA says that they only have one side but you can break the tabs off and make them work.  The tabs are for convenience during installation.  Some people don't have the problem with no shims but they are a guaranteed solution and don't hurt anything f they're still flat.

If you live by MSA you can always get them later, easily, and take the pads off one more time.

I just added the MSA (genuine Nissan) shims to my car and all the noise is 100% cured.  I purchased 4 shims, all the same, and simply inserted two of the shims in the vise and bent the tabs in the other direction. No need to cut or break them off.  It is so easy, it makes sense that one "side" is currently manufactured.

Edited by David F
grammar

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21 minutes ago, edearman said:


Sorry for trying to help...it won’t happen again.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

You could just take a step back and see how it looked from my end.  If you wanted to.  I like to have some fun on the forum.  Offense was not intended.

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18 minutes ago, David F said:

I just added the MSA (genuine Nissan) shims to my car and all the noise is 100% cured.  I purchased 4 shims, all the same, and simply inserted two of the shims in the vise and bent the tabs in the other direction. No need to cut or break them off.  It is so easy, it makes sense that one "side" is currently manufactured.

I just did the very same thing plus a new caliper from ORielly's.  Just bend them carefully and they work perfect.  I'm no longer embarrassed when someone admiring the car hears a squeal when I stop. ;)

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21 hours ago, edearman said:

?

Was this directed at my post? If so, and if my last paragraph wasn't clear, I will elaborate w/ photos. I know it's an odd little issue to mention and I likely used some incorrect terminology, but it's something useful for first-timers like me to  be aware of. Let me know if this is the issue and I'll try to clarify.

Cheers

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