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duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

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Got the new 5/8 line in the mail today and got all lines replaced, this is the last of my lines that were old and brittle.  It was a pain, but glad I got to clean the area and check for rust and get new grommets installed.  

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5 hours ago, siteunseen said:

That looks really good.  What did you do for the 5/8s on top of the tank, the 180 degree bend?  I lucked out and got all my stuff from O'Reilly's.

Evap tank or gas tank?  I assume you are talking about the gas tank, I will either use a stainless rod bent, or a spring, I haven't decided yet, tank should be done and back this week.  

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Got the drive lines back today from having u joints pressed in.  They came out pretty good, paint/ powder had some nicks from their press, so I had to do some touch up paint.  The tech didn't like the powder on the end of the flanges.  He said the powder will eventually wear down and cause slop.  Anyone heard of this?  Or think he is correct?  

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Edited by duffymahoney

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When you say "powder on the end of the flanges"...  If what you mean is that you have powder coating on the mating surfaces of the flanges where the driveshaft mates to the differential, or where the axles bolt at either end, then I agree with your tech.

I think there should be a hard, predictable, metal to metal contact there, and I worry that powder coating on those surfaces can extrude and squish out from between the two faces. Especially once things get hot and the coating softens from the heat. If that happens, you will end up with loose connections and it will snowball from there and probably result in snapped bolts.

Might just be me, but I'd razor scrape off any paint on the mating surfaces and just apply a very thin coat of oil instead.

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8 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

When you say "powder on the end of the flanges"...  If what you mean is that you have powder coating on the mating surfaces of the flanges where the driveshaft mates to the differential, or where the axles bolt at either end, then I agree with your tech.

I think there should be a hard, predictable, metal to metal contact there, and I worry that powder coating on those surfaces can extrude and squish out from between the two faces. Especially once things get hot and the coating softens from the heat. If that happens, you will end up with loose connections and it will snowball from there and probably result in snapped bolts.

Might just be me, but I'd razor scrape off any paint on the mating surfaces and just apply a very thin coat of oil instead.

Yeah he wants the mating surfaces to be metal on metal. Only thing that has me arguing is the fact that the rear end had paint on the surface from the factory. On each side of the rear end. 

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Yeah, I'd want metal to metal.

I'm no coatings expert, but most powder coatings I've messed with are much thicker than a coat of traditional solvent based spray. I'm thinking that one thin coat of traditional paint isn't nearly as problematic as a thick powder coat. Also, I believe powder coating is actually a thermoplastic coating (polyester?) melted into place. Reheat it and it melts again.

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Powder is thicker then paint. But that depends on how much is used, I had him go thin. Powder melts at around 500 degrees. I can see the half shafts getting that hot. 

All surfaces mate up nicely with the powder. I guess I could remove it. But I could just check all bolts after a break in period. Which was my plan already. 

 

Any other input? Don’t the bolts hold it in place?

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The powder any job-shop or coater would normally use for this type application would be thermoset therefore u are good to go in that respect, most likely a TGIC or a urethane, both polyester resin. Epoxy powders will give better chemical/ gas resistance but will chalk eventually. Most solvent born coating would be in the 1-3 mils. range (DFT) and powder could be 2-10 mils depending how heavy handed they were. 2-4 mils powder would give your great look and protection. Sometimes tight tolerances and powder can be a problem unless masking/ plugs are used. Sorry for the details, been in the coating business for a while.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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Looks great! Did you get new tank straps from Skillard too? I ordered a set with my Techno Toy order for my 76 and they are fantastic quality.

If you order some, make sure you specify the year of the car several times. They shipped me the wrong ones twice. Third time is the charm I hope!

Here is the 70-74 size next to my original 75-76 strap set.

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1 minute ago, wheee! said:

Looks great! Did you get new tank straps from Skillard too? I ordered a set with my Techno Toy order for my 76 and they are fantastic quality.
If you order some, make sure you specify the year of the car several times. They shipped me the wrong ones twice. Third time is the charm I hope!

My straps were fine, I just had them powder coated and glued the insulators back on.

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I'm going to be a little nosey here but I've done two tanks with Red-Kote and muratic acid.  If you don't mind saying, how much did it cost?  You could send me a PM or just not respond and I completely understand.  I have had a couple of offers to do this for a guy and one of his buddies.  I know the cost of materials but no idea what to charge for labor.  

Thank you, Cliff.

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6 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I'm going to be a little nosey here but I've done two tanks with Red-Kote and muratic acid.  If you don't mind saying, how much did it cost?  You could send me a PM or just not respond and I completely understand.  I have had a couple of offers to do this for a guy and one of his buddies.  I know the cost of materials but no idea what to charge for labor.  

Thank you, Cliff.

Radiator shop hot tanked it, acid dipped it, then I powder coated it then we did redkote.  Also installed another drain for the redkote.  I paid 200 for the dipping and acid.  The redkote was free since he spilled (around the sending unit) some and I bought the materials.  I ended up giving him a gift card for the work.  He wouldn't let me pay him, since my tank looks flawless other then that.  

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10 minutes ago, wheee! said:

Mine were rotted through in places. You are lucky!

My 240z, is very rust free.  I will hopefully never drive it in the rain again, and it will continue to be this nice.  

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Rebuilt turn signal.  A friend found me a bucket, I got new screws from the hardware stock, chrome powder coated the reflector then new stainless turn signal clips.  Turned out awesome. 

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Gas tank is installed. Getting the hoses on and putting it in place without scratching it was difficult. I ended up laying on the ground and holding it in place. The large 5/8” hose was first. Which I used stainless welding rod to make the U. Then the end hose. 

 

Why does the tank  need so many vents?:)

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Edited by duffymahoney
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1 hour ago, duffymahoney said:

Gas tank is installed. Getting the hoses on and putting it in place without scratching it was difficult. I ended up laying on the ground and holding it in place. The large 5/8” hose was first. Which I used stainless welding rod to make the U. Then the end hose. 

 

Why does the tank  need so many vents?:)

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:beer:

There's another funky bend that I had trouble with.  I used a 1/2" brass pex fitting to make the sharp bend.

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  Does the tank have so many vent hoses to ensure the tank is completely filled during a fillup?  That has always been my theory.  I cut an access hole above that low leaking hose on my car so I can replace that hose if needed without dropping the tank.  Of course the first hose lasted a mere 38 years...

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