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Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build


duffymahoney

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One of my issues so far with running is my injectors that fit nicely into the throttles are a V stream. So I believe they are just spraying on the walls. 
 

I am going to switch out to DeatschWerks 18U-00-0035-6. Single cone spray. They use the same connector. Hopefully I can get the correct orings to deal well. Tiogatold me to do this in the start. I should have listened. 

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Posted (edited)

My friend swapped my clutch and fixed some bugs. 
 

But putting my center console back in, he pinched a wire on the o2 sensor. Shorted and burnt my dual o2 can sensor up. 

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Edited by duffymahoney
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18 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

Yes Can Bus is what I meant.  

Duffy, are you using the Haltech Can Bus? I have a local dealer. Though I doubt he stocks anything. Are you going to have to order this from OZ? 

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1 hour ago, conedodger said:

Duffy, are you using the Haltech Can Bus? I have a local dealer. Though I doubt he stocks anything. Are you going to have to order this from OZ? 

I bought the WB2. They updated the plugs and u shouldn’t have to de-pin it to get the plugs through the body. Which will be nice. 

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I am using a mid 80s bmw iac valve. I was having a hard time finding a hose that looked good and would hold the vac without collapsing. Then it dawned on me, maybe one meant for the same bmw. Fits awesome and is exactly the right size for my balance bar. Stoked 

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I ended up getting new injectors. These are 35lb and they have a traditional 20 degree cone spray pattern. Prior I have a v pattern designed for DOHC motors. Squirting at two valves. Hopefully the work a little better. They are slightly longer. But I got them to work. 

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9 hours ago, conedodger said:

What Kind of A:F ratio are you getting under load with the 35# injectors. I don’t remember the equation off the top of my head but it seems you would need twice that?

Whatever AF mixture I want. 35lbs can go up to like 500+ hp. Which I will never achieve. 

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Posted (edited)

You are correct. My mistake. It’s my throttle body that calculates to 70mm. My own injectors are 42#.
 

*I bear no responsibility for mistaken judgement on days I get up at 3am to take one of our visiting kids to the airport… LOL!

Edited by conedodger
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Hi Duffy,

Running 347cc EV14 Bosch, 1/2" height. My throttles are smaller, moved the fuel pressure reg setting to 45lbs unvacuumed. Sends a nice quick mist into the chamber. 

Agree my throttles are rated up to 70HP each, will never achieve the max HP x6 rating N/A. Believe part of the problem with ITB's, folks are over fueling these engines with big bodies and large injectors. 

Car is going to the tuner, taken it as far as my knowledge base. Self tuning beautifully but tuning decel is whole other animal. The lean spots at shift points and decay at decel is tricky with the distance of the injector to the valve. 

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  • 1 month later...

ITB with IAC take 3. My last bmw IAC wouldn’t play nice with my haltech (basically it’s the opposite of how haltech controls it). This one let’s by a tiny bit of air at full closed. I plan to see if I can set the butterfly’s and it to play nicely and not idle too high when the engine is warmed up. Fingers crossed.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Duffy.

How did the IAC workout? Where did you purchase? brand? My set-up is currently void of a IAV. 

Spent the large dollars for a professional tune. Passes up to 7,000 RPM. Was surprised ITB's without a IAC require a ton of ignition advance on the low end, close to 30 but required to eliminate the stumble when you stab the accelerator. 

Idling high now 900-1000 RPM but running strong. 

Who are you working with at Haltech? CA office or other location?

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1 hour ago, BoldUlysses said:

Looks (and sounds) great!  That smushed breather hose coming off the cam cover doesn't fit with the cleanliness of the rest of the build though...  Maybe it's temporary?

I will have to fix that little pinch. I like the stock style hoses. Adds some style to the hoses. 

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Well I am a liar. My wiring was wrong. Iac wasn’t even working. But it lets by 20% air or so with 0 volts. So this is cold start with 20% air going by. On my haltech  You can set voltage at a percentage of 0-12v. So roughly set the lowest voltage it can go to 33%. Should work, but to be determined.  I need to run a new DPO wire

Pics volts vs flow.jpg

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I’m trying to track down a short in my 12v positive from my tach to my coil. I seem to have two black and white wires and a green a white in my coil bundle. Any ideas? The 2nd b/w and green/white doesn’t show up on any wiring diagrams. I have a 1/71 build.

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Both black/white and the green white wires show up in wiring diagrams. See attached for the highlighted path.

One black/white goes from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor.

The green/white lands on the other side of the ballast resistor and goes to the tachometer.

The other black/white comes out of the tachometer and goes to the coil positive.

If you think you have a short in the circuit, unplug the 4 wire connector from the back of the tachometer and lift one of the wires off the ballast resistor. You have isolated the wires from one another and can measure resistance to ground at each.

 

 

 

Ignition Circuit.pdf

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