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duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

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    5 hours ago, nomuken said:

    Digging up this older post. I have a series 1 to, still stock 4 speed. Do you have to cut the trans tunnel at all with the SX gearbox? I don't want to cut it and the idea of a 90§ bent shifter isn't appealing to me. So a SX 5spd swap might be the solution...

    Zero cutting with the sx swap. 

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    Well I’m probably a idiot. But I decided to swap my Jenvey throttles bodies out for something a little more vintage/ classic. 

    These are late 70s early 80s SK throttle bodies. They are 47mm that taper to 45. I picked them up off yahoo japan. They have a nice vac balance port on them. I bought two sets off a single seller. 

    Now time to fabricate a single piece fuel rail and find a tps sensor that works. They should match my SK intake nicely. The old SK stuff is so nicely cast. I’m excited!

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    My 3.1ish stroker build ran into a small issue. The block will need to be clearanced a little more. The extra long stroked LD crank (84.6) is to blame. 

    The engine can be rotated, and it just barely touches about one time out of three. That’s just the .002” of bearing clearance rocking one way or another.

    Deck height is within .002” of each other. 

    Andrew Kazanis is a L series wizard. Hopefully when he retires he will build Datsun motors and especially do more head work.

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    On 9/7/2019 at 7:21 AM, duffymahoney said:

    So getting a vac log/ map signal has proved very hard with my manifold.  

     
     
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    So I am going to attempt to re tap my BSPT threads to NPT (I have had great success with it actually) Then use these.

     
     
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    https://www.universalpowerconversion.com/miniature-male-branch-tee-hose-barb-brass-p-3356.html

     

    https://www.universalpowerconversion.com/miniature-male-branch-tee-hose-barb-brass-p-3368.html

     

    So the runners will all have a 1/8 NPT by 1/8 Hose barb T.  That way I can connect to a map sensor and also the FPR.  

     

    Then on the runner with 1/4 NPT, I will use the 1/4 NPT by 1/8 hose barb T, then tap (or soldier) the top flat section to 1/8 NPT by 3/8 Hose barb (3/8 will go to the brake booster).  Then I have nice braided vacuum hoses to make the balance tube/ vac log.  Should look good and solve all my issues.  

    Duffy,

    I had a similar problem getting a vacuum signal I could use on a Porsche I own. All those throttle plates opening at once creates a heck of an atmospheric drop. I ended up using a mig tip to mitigate the vacuum drop. It wasn't heavenly, but it made it more tuneable.

    For reference, this is what a MIG welding tip looks like. It's simply an obstruction with a small hole in to modulate changes in vacuum, and anything could be used (aluminum rod with a drilled hole, a carb jet, a drilled plastic BB, etc). In a way, it introduces a 'lag' or slowdown of changes in vacuum, so you get a sort of averaging effect. Much better than having the MAP sensor report every peak and valley in the signal, and having the FI trying to keep up with that.
     

    mig tip.jpg

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    I just assumed you were going to use one of those carbon fiber airboxes with a MAF like mine that will give you IAT and such. But TPS works...

    Airbox.jpg

    Edited by conedodger

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    No. I plan on some sort of stack filters. 
     
    Maybe someday something like this 
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    Those beautiful and expensive DCOEs are being suffocated with that airbox. Even with my SUs on a modified engine, I can see the defects of / proven that the airbox is very restrictive.

    What@conedodger put up is the way forward IMHO. Combine that with some piping through the rad panel and a filter in front of the rad pulling in cold air and you should see a few more ponies too!

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    I see Duffy’s point though. His car is a Series 1 that hid in his neighbors garage for 3 decades. He’s trying to maybe mimic stock?

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    5 hours ago, conedodger said:

    I see Duffy’s point though. His car is a Series 1 that hid in his neighbors garage for 3 decades. He’s trying to maybe mimic stock?

    I can design the box to flow correctly, really this is just a fun project.  Lots of info about air needed for HP.  

     

    I honestly like the looks and sound of raw stacks.  

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    I can design the box to flow correctly, really this is just a fun project.  Lots of info about air needed for HP.  
     
    I honestly like the looks and sound of raw stacks.  



    My apologies if my comment came across wrong in anyway, I do admire the engineering prowess that has gone into creating this beautiful box though! It does look pretty special.

    So, are you running it without a filter hence the raw stacks comment?

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    Rebello pistons just got back from ceramic coating by Performance Coatings, Inc. No clue if it was a good idea or not. But we decided to give it a try. 

    Ceramic on top, anti scuff on sides, thermal barrier on bottom.

    The color is more of a bronze then the picture is showing.

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    Dave told me when I asked about coating, “it’s a 10/10ths thing. You don’t need it for a street engine but you could if you wanted to.”

     

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    2 hours ago, conedodger said:

    Dave told me when I asked about coating, “it’s a 10/10ths thing. You don’t need it for a street engine but you could if you wanted to.”

     

    Yeah, there are 100 little things you can do to the motor, each doesn't affect much, but added up they could.  Time will tell.  

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    1 hour ago, duffymahoney said:

    Yeah, there are 100 little things you can do to the motor, each doesn't affect much, but added up they could.  Time will tell.  

    Oh, I'm not being critical. I decided not to but only because I reexamined my goals for the car. I've owned this car since 1980. I autocrossed the living $^!# out of it at first and actually made a name for myself with it. When I decided to have an engine built, it occurred to me that Rebello was between work and home. I worked at Stanford University Medical Center and lived by Lake Tahoe. The car has had its original motor and then an L28 that I built, and then the original L24 that I rebuilt. All good motors but I thought if I was going to have someone else build a motor, it should be one of the names. I could have let Dave go wild and I originally wanted to but then I thought I want this to be a stockish motor with some extra power that maintains some street manners so my wife wouldn't mind getting in it and going to an event or two. So I started paring down what I would do to get it to, let's say 7/10ths. 

    I'm all for what you're doing. Its got to be right for you...

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    18 hours ago, conedodger said:

    Oh, I'm not being critical. I decided not to but only because I reexamined my goals for the car. I've owned this car since 1980. I autocrossed the living $^!# out of it at first and actually made a name for myself with it. When I decided to have an engine built, it occurred to me that Rebello was between work and home. I worked at Stanford University Medical Center and lived by Lake Tahoe. The car has had its original motor and then an L28 that I built, and then the original L24 that I rebuilt. All good motors but I thought if I was going to have someone else build a motor, it should be one of the names. I could have let Dave go wild and I originally wanted to but then I thought I want this to be a stockish motor with some extra power that maintains some street manners so my wife wouldn't mind getting in it and going to an event or two. So I started paring down what I would do to get it to, let's say 7/10ths. 

    I'm all for what you're doing. Its got to be right for you...

    This is my first motor build, I am having a little fun.  Rebello and my builder are friends. I have rebellos pistons, valve retainers and rods and bearings.  

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