duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

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    You could punch a hole in the valve cover on the back face high up to pull the vapour out of the trap then run this to the catch-can.

     

    This re-route will allow you to plug and re-paint the top of the valve cover so it is smooth.

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    5 hours ago, 240260280 said:

    You could punch a hole in the valve cover on the back face high up to pull the vapour out of the trap then run this to the catch-can.

     

    This re-route will allow you to plug and re-paint the top of the valve cover so it is smooth.

    My valve cover is powder coated, so I won't be changing it.  That hose never bothers me for some reason.  

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    Question regarding the cam sensor . Since my pigtail came as a kit I had no ID on colors and thus no idea on pin out. Have you got yours working or do you know the pin out for the 3 wires?

    thanks 

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    15 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

    I think it looks better. Still busy though. 

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    Shouldn’t the FPR be after the injectors? 

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    24 minutes ago, madkaw said:

    Question regarding the cam sensor . Since my pigtail came as a kit I had no ID on colors and thus no idea on pin out. Have you got yours working or do you know the pin out for the 3 wires?

    thanks 

    This is what I went off of. 

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    C0A1A281-F36A-4385-BF13-1803F5B5126F.png

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    48 minutes ago, duffymahoney said:

    This is what I went off of. 

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    C0A1A281-F36A-4385-BF13-1803F5B5126F.png

    Thanks - tested good?

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    1 hour ago, duffymahoney said:

    I haven't tested yet.  

    I just picked up some 1k resistors . My circuit is not set up correctly from what I read . It needs a pull up resistor and the pots adjusted before I can try mine . Waiting on a knock sensor kit before I break into the “box” to do that . 

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    I finally got my fully sequential ITBs to fire and run! She is a little rough. But pretty amazing base tune and help from Richard Boyk! I can’t wait to get a fully dialed tune running. 

    Worst part is my fuel pump is super loud. 

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    Well my stock original 1971 series 1 tach works with my fully sequential r35 coil on plug Efi system (haltech elite 750) . I literally ran the coil positive out from the ecu through the white wire with a red band then out to the coils through tachs white wire with a black band. Nothing else was needed. Added about 15” to my entire positive for the coils. I like how the tach feels and reacts the same as it always has. This would work on any 240z tach and a rb swap or aftermarket Efi with COP and fully sequential. I don’t know if it would work on wasted spark or not. Thanks Dirk Stoop for pushing this way vs the others.

    Where I got the idea

    https://www.viczcar.com/…/9515-getting-a-240z-tacho-to-wor…/

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    Have you finished the fuel return line charge yet? I’m curious to see how that turned out, as I am considering several of the same mods you’re doing. I have seen people use 280z gas tanks to solve for this, but I’m thinking the vapor tank suggestion made earlier is a great one.

    Incidentally, I know the vapor smell getting into your house was a consideration for all of this. I’m thinking of using a II Much vapor canister in place of the OEM one in my ‘73. Something like that may help with options for getting that return to work.

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    13 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

    Have you finished the fuel return line charge yet? I’m curious to see how that turned out, as I am considering several of the same mods you’re doing. I have seen people use 280z gas tanks to solve for this, but I’m thinking the vapor tank suggestion made earlier is a great one.

    Incidentally, I know the vapor smell getting into your house was a consideration for all of this. I’m thinking of using a II Much vapor canister in place of the OEM one in my ‘73. Something like that may help with options for getting that return to work.

    Fuel system is finished and works fine.  How i have it is exactly how a lot of OEM tanks are setup.  So I doubt I will have any issues.

    She is running rich, but the gas smell is down to a normal level now.  I am very happy with that aspect.

     

    Next big hurdle is cold idle and dialed in tune.  You can tune around it, but without a IAC, it's going to be a balancing act.  My car has been 32-35 degrees when I have been starting it.  

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    Well the original oil pan seal finally died. So I pulled the pan, zinc’d the pan bolts and powder coated the outside of the pan. 
     

    The inside black material is pretty good condition. It’s come off a little at the edges. 
     

    Now to get it on without too many scratches. 

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    1 hour ago, duffymahoney said:

    Well the original oil pan seal finally died. So I pulled the pan, zinc’d the pan bolts and powder coated the outside of the pan. 
     

    The inside black material is pretty good condition. It’s come off a little at the edges. 
     

    Now to get it on without too many scratches. 

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    Did you plate those at home with Caswell? They look good!

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    No I don't plate at home.  I send it off, zinc is cheap to have done.  I have been sending car parts off to zinc for a while now.  I found a shop I like and just ship them boxes of parts.  Works great.  

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    41 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

     Wow, the things one discovers on this site. TFC is about a quarter mile from my house. Thanks

    Now that is neat! I found out about TFC when I got a set of ztheraphy carbs. I was impressed by the zinc. So I emailed them and asked who the shop was. They are usually pretty fast as well. Most zinc shops are slow and smaller batches aren’t important. 

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    3 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

    Now that is neat! I found out about TFC when I got a set of ztheraphy carbs. I was impressed by the zinc. So I emailed them and asked who the shop was. They are usually pretty fast as well. Most zinc shops are slow and smaller batches aren’t important. 

    Do you deal with Louis? I spoke to him a few months ago

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    When I get closer to install, your thread will be my bible Duffy. I bought this for myself for Christmas to make a little shorter work of stripping the engine compartment.

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