Is the gasket sticking out any?  Mine did at first and it leaked when I overfilled it.  Loosened the pan bolts, tucked it back and slowly went around retightening. Stopped mine from leaking and taught me that 5 qts is too much oil for my 240.

Are you positive that all bolts are torqued correctly? Not accusing you of doing it wrong. Just wondering if there is a possibility. 

torque to just good and snug using a stubby ratchet, triple checked I got them all about the same level of tight. the gasket looks well placed. I think the FSM calls for 7 ftlbs, not something I can really set for so I just went for nice a snug. Its not seeping anywhere except the exact same place, which leads me to believe its really rear main leaking down to the pan lip and just following it. I was very careful about making sure the pan was not dimpled (it was not) and getting a good clean surface on both the block and pan. Did NOT use any silicone goop or the like on the gasket since I have always read that is NOT to be used esp on OE parts like this. I did put it where the FSM said to, the parting lines of the timing cover and the rear main cap.

I do have one of those old school 3/8 torque wrenches that is in inch pounds so I assume its just 84inch pounds, could see how tight one is set to determine if my wrist calibration is in the ball park. its the kind with a scale and a pointer that deflects as you twist. Prob good for low torque readings.

Edited March 12, 20179 yr by Dave WM

I would check a few with the inch lb torque wrench just to verify not too tight or too loose.

Will do, hopefully its not too tight, don't think loosening would be a good idea.

What does a competition oil pan gasket look like?

no idea, but the one that came out was solid black rubber.

I tested my big 1/2 torque wrench by connecting it to the 3/8 spring bar kind, I was able to get reliable clicking at about 80 inch pounds, so looks like I can use the monster to test a few and see how close I was. I don't plan on getting it up on the ramps again until I get my sway bars links in, (I use a combo of ramps/jack stands/jack/6x6's under the ramps to make sure I have about 4 systems in use before I go under the car, takes about 20 mins to get it setup).

I did 84 inch pounds on my last pan, FYI.

I see HF has a nice little 1/4 inch pound that looks to be just the ticket.

I used a loaner tool deal from autozone for an inch pound wrench. Same kind I almost drove 30 minutes and bought from Harbor Freight, Pittsburgh. 

Edited March 13, 20179 yr by siteunseen

I have a HF less than 10 miles away, so sound like a plan. I was just there yesterday too....

Too tight can deform the pan and cause leaks.

Competition pan gasket   It's made from the same materials as the comp valve cover gasket. I use the valve cover gasket because you can re-use it several times.

Edited March 13, 20179 yr by rcb280z