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Anyone running MegaSquirt in their Z?


grannyknot

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5 hours ago, grannyknot said:

CM, well that certainly changed the pattern on the composite logger while simulating on the JimStim, I'll hook it up to the engine tomorrow when I get home and see if anything has changed there.

Thank you

Check this article out regarding VR settings on the main board. I'd say those are two pretty important adjustments....

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm

Quote

Adjusting the V3 Main Board VR Input Circuit Potentiometers

The V3 main board variable reluctor (VR) sensor input circuit has two pots for adjusting the trigger voltage and the hysteresis.

  • R56 is the potentiometer nearest the edge of the PCB, near the copyright date. This is the voltage trigger adjusting pot.

     

  • R52 is the potentiometer near the center of the PCB. This is the hysteresis pot, and determines how low the voltage must drop before the circuit output drops to ground. Turning this circuit clockwise can reduce the effects of noise in the input signal.

 

Edited by Chickenman
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GN: Read the whole article above. This second to last paragraph is a doozy:

Quote

You may have to adjust the hysteresis pot (R52) as well to reduce the effects of noise in the signal.

Note that without trigger pot (R56) pot adjustments, you would not get a signal at all (since the signal never drops to zero, the VR output would stay low). If you adjusted only the trigger pot (R56) the signal would be very noisy, since the output would change every time the signal passed through the trigger voltage. So you would adjust the hysteresis pot to clean up the signal.

 

Edited by Chickenman
Reply directed to GN. Typing at same time as ZH.
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19 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Already linked in Post 14.  Not competing, just saying...let's not wear any ruts.

Yes... that's a good link. Just saw it myself now. Could be an issue as the two Pots effectively adjust sensitivity for individual VR's. If they were left unadjusted it could cause a problem.

 

BTW, in the mountains of MS info that ZH linked to, there is a reference a reference that the MS ECU requires a minimum of 20 Millivolts AC to work correctly.

Edited by Chickenman
ZH provided link to Pickup section.
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On 8/11/2016 at 7:21 PM, madkaw said:

Though there are different versions , I believe most need a pull up resistor for a VR sensor. There are also pots to adjust inside on the board . It's a steep learning curve but you'll get it . I've been told the ignition is the hard part with MS , fuel is easier . 

4:30ish in the morning... and I'm dreaming about damned MS problems instead of scantily clad girls. Thanks Chris!!

Steve previously mentioned the need to adjust some parameters in both software and hardware. Noise filtering for VR sensors is one example. You have to turn the Noise filtering on in software ( Tuner Studio ), but you adjust the setting in the hardware ( Via the R56 and R52 pots ).  I can see how that gets confusing. And MS doesn't make things any easier by spreading the information in different sources rather than all in one area. Information does seem to be scattered all over the place.

Haltech, AEM, Microsquirt, Link ECU's  etc,  all do the same thing for noise filtering of VR sensors ( just one example ) ... but it's all done in the software. You never have to open the Black Box on any of these units to adjust pots, switch jumpers or solder in different components. That doesn't mean that MS is any less capable than these systems.. but it is definitely less user friendly because of the necessity to keep jumping between software adjustments and hardware adjustments.  And it is up front about being a DIY system.

On the plus side,  you certainly aren't paying the same money for a MS as a Haltech or AEM etc. It's all a trade-off and a learning curve I guess.

Let us know how you make out Chris. You'll get there. And you can't get any better than Matt Cramer to help you out. GL

 

 

 

Edited by Chickenman
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Sorry about the lack of dream girls, I did put the filtering on as you suggested and finally got a stable rpm display on the real time display and I could adjust it with the pots so that is a step in the right direction. I have JP1 and J1 jumped properly and R56 and R52 turned counter clockwise 7 turns, I advanced R56 and 52 but didn't notice any changes in the signal on the screen. Then took it all out to the engine test stand and cranked the engine but still no signal showing from the real crank sensor. Still going to get a new crank sensor just to see if it helps.

CM I guess you are Blackbird on the Megasquirt forums?  For anyone else who might be following this thread I have another thread on the MS forums with more detail and logs,  http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=63449&p=481201#p481201

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Yep.. Blackbird_SR71 on MS forums. Haven't posted there much, but have done a lot of lurking. Used to be on VW Vortex Audi 1.8T Engine Forum and Third Gen ( Camaro ) forums a lot. Depends on which car I own at the time... LOL

Seems I regularly wake up around 4:30ish to post..... :unsure:

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