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hatepotholez

Engine only runs with starter fluid

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 When I had one stick, the cure was twisting that little flat bar linkage bit to align it better to the nozzle, The surface that the screw passes thru wasn't parallel with the mounting surface on the nozzle causing it to bind. 

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Unhook the cable and see if you can move it up and down.  I'd think if it movs any it's in that flat metal bar Mark's talking about.  It should move up and down about an inch with the choke cable undone, freely by hand.

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Is that something you chose to do or you have to do?  To me that seems like there is a problem.  

Could your choke pull handle mount be loose on the console?  There's a better mounting plate on ebay that'll get it off the console and way stronger, more pulling power.

I can't figure out how to drop the nozzles then pull the choke cable?  Seems like the other way around would work better? 

Good luck, I'm curious for the fix. 8^)

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 The kit to move the choke lever mounting point from the underside (now broken) of the console to the trans tunnel will fix the floppiness in your lever. Lube everything including the cables and nozzles. With the choke cables disconnected, grab the end of the linkage the cable connects to and move it back and forth, mimicking the action of the choke cables, The nozzles should lower and raise smoothly with no hesitation or difficulty. Let us know what you find.

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Ok, made some good progress. I disconnected the choke cable completely from the carbs. The cable even when the choke handle was down was slightly pulling on the choke actuators but not by much.

I started the car and it ran right away. I then proceeded to set the idle, locked in the bottom lock nuts all the way in and rotated 1 turn and then about 1/8th, adjusted the air balance screws and throttle plate screws and then high idle all per the service manual. I was able to get the idle set at 700. The car ran for atleast 15 minutes, I then shut off the vehicle and tried to restart it but no luck. I pulled the plugs and they were all black but not wet. I have atleast 18 spark plugs all black, I will clean them up and reinstall. 

 

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 Post #160 you mentioned a Ztherapy kit that came with M43 and M39 needles. I believe those are needles for a four cyl. (1600?) engine. Are you using either one of those?

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4 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 Post #160 you mentioned a Ztherapy kit that came with M43 and M39 needles. I believe those are needles for a four cyl. (1600?) engine. Are you using either one of those?

The kit is actually from zcardepot. The needles were much shorter compared to the needles that came off the carbs.

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 You might want to pop the top off a carb. and double check. I'm not an expert on the different needles (i always ran oem needles) but I saw a post on Zcardriver where someone got the M39 and M43's in a kit, tried them and couldn't get the engine running well until he changed them to needles that were designed for a six cylinder engine.

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7 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 You might want to pop the top off a carb. and double check. I'm not an expert on the different needles (i always ran oem needles) but I saw a post on Zcardriver where someone got the M39 and M43's in a kit, tried them and couldn't get the engine running well until he changed them to needles that were designed for a six cylinder engine.

That's a good idea, I also might just buy the original N54 needles to eliminate that needle issue.

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Solved the issue with running rich, would be nice if the needles were the correct one! 

incorrect needle on the right.jpg

Edited by hatepotholez
pic upload
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14 hours ago, Patcon said:

How did you solve it? Did I miss something?

 I believe he replaced the needles. 

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The length of the needles isn't the problem. It's the diameter.

The length only matters at WOT high load conditions, and even then, they were probably long enough.

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