Bleeding rear brakes

[restore]

I was hoping that it was not the proportioning valve because it's located above the right axle on the bottom of the floor pan. A place with limited access. I guess I'll bite the bullet and clean it and the warning light switch, located below the MC on the left wheel well. I'm most concerned about removing the tubing connectors on the PV. I have flare wrenches but I am afraid of damaging the brake lines. The car is 44 years old and I'm sure lines have never been removed. Thanks.

Rick in Kansas

[Zed Head]

I've removed several old brake fittings on my car and have decided that going directly to a good pair of locking pliers with clean jaws on a cleaned, filed, smoothed, squared, fitting nut, probably with with applied heat, is the only way to go.  Most are stuck, none are easy.  Heat makes a big difference.

 

Clean everything, square up the nut flats with a file if they're rounded, lock the pliers on as tight as possible without crushing the nut, lock the body of whatever the nut inserts in to, warm things up to get expansion, then apply torque.  When they let go it will sound like it broke.  20 minutes of setup, 2 seconds of effort.  

 

If you do have to cut the lines, you can get pre-fitted lines of various lengths at the auto store, and bend to fit.  Cheaper and probably more dependable leak-wise, than flaring and fitting your own.

[EuroDat]

If you have to use heat. Try not to get too much heat into NP valve. The rubber cups will be worthless and they are NLA.

Instead, heat the nut til its almost glowing and let it cool. When it heats up it will expand and when it cools down it will shrinm a fraction. That might just be enough to get it out.

After it cools mix up a batch of 50/50 acetone and auto transmission fluid. Spray or brush it around the nuts and leave it over night. That will work its way in. The next day try to remove using the tools Zed head described.

Removing brake lines is up there with removing spindle pins. Once you have mastered the art of removing these your a pro.

Goodluck.

Edited July 6, 2015 by EuroDat

[restore]

Thanks to everyone for all of the ideas. I like the heat and acetone/ATF combo. I've not heard of that. I' give it a try.

Rick

[Pop's Z]

FYI, speed bleeders are two different size threads front and rear. Don't remember now which is which, but one of them also fits the clutch slave cylinder. +1 on using them, though.

 

Cheers, Mike

[SteveJ]

Part numbers:

Russell 639560 Speed Bleeder (front)

Russell 639570 Speed Bleeder (rear)

 

They are available via Amazon.

[Zed Head]

That makes it easy.

 

I've found on the fronts though, that the remans can have the bleed screw hole bored out and rethreaded and a different size bleed screw installed.  Just my experience.  I never got speed bleeders for the front but did notice the difference when I replaced only one caliper.  Which led to unbalanced braking, but that's another story.

[Zdisease]

You might want to disconnect the rear brake hydraulic line at the brass splitter. Determine if a good stream of fluid bleeds.

If yes..... Remove the other two

Lines... Remove the splitter..

I soaked mine in gas+oil over night. The next day I blew air through the splitter.

[restore]

Thanks, I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and remove and clean everything.

Rick in Kansas