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Careless

240Z Resto - 01/1970 Car

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little bit more of a sneekitie peekitie with the carbs and manfold on.

 

Rf9MT5w.jpg

 

9gLNGnQ.jpg

 

Vop5WFw.jpg

 

 

i painted the heatshield with high heat paint, and i found a half full can of cold galvanizing compound. I'm going to spray that on top of the high heat stuff and hope it doesn't come off when the engine is running. It's not that hard to remove and refinish anyways.

Edited by Careless
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Try a wet on wet application. If the chemical compositions of the two paints are compatible they should fuse without causing any blistering or crinkling. Then it's just a question of how well the base layer sticks.

/M

Edited by Matthew

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Try a wet on wet application. If the chemical compositions of the two paints are compatible they should fuse without causing any blistering or crinkling. Then it's just a question of how well the base layer sticks.

/M

 

Do you have any brands/product names for that type of stuff, Matthew? I won't be able to use it for this current build, but I'd like to experiment with various finishes in the future. This is for the heatshield, right? The thing with the heatshield final finish is that it's supposed to look like a velvet grey. Most paints aside from Cold Galvanizing do not give that finish, as it's 93% Zinc rich, so it's essentially zinc, paint base, and adhesion promoter. It has a very distinct look to it.

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Thanks for all the love and appreciation, people! 

Couldn't have put it together with the level of correctness without everyone's help.

 

I know there are some things that need to be changed (like the block colour, according to chris. so I'm starting over!!!  :facepalm: ).

 

The valve cover bolts I used were just the closest ones next to me while I had RTV painted on the gasket. I just used them to hold it down so it cures flat. I will be checking back on the original photos of the vehicle and making sure I put the right ones there. Some other things will be double checked while I wait for stuff to come in.

 

I'll be developing my own faux-plating style paint system today and tomorrow to touch up any items that are difficult to plate 100% since Datsun assembled them after the plating process or used a certain jig to hold them in a way that made the run-off stains less apparent.  There are always areas where the plating colour might run, or there is "bleed out" of muriatic acid after the plating takes place (blind holes, etc). One item is the thermofan clutch for the radiator fan. The front is tack welded on after being plated and assembled. so I'll be painting that with something I found that is close, and then doing a "wash" over it with some more colours to give it the right look.

 

Eastwood has a product that does it as well called Golden Cad System, but I'll try my own first!

Edited by Careless

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Just stumbled on this thread and thought the username looked familiar. Good to see you back in another Z! A bit surprised that it's a restoration considering what you last project was, but not at all disappointed. That is some really excellent work. I think I'll subscribe to this one.

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Just stumbled on this thread and thought the username looked familiar. Good to see you back in another Z! A bit surprised that it's a restoration considering what you last project was, but not at all disappointed. That is some really excellent work. I think I'll subscribe to this one.

 

who you is???

 

This is a job for a client that I am taking over and hopefully completing. I am doing some other car related stuff, so to speak- but nothing for myself at the moment.

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Careless: Certainly museum quality build! Congrats! Are you sure you're gonna want to run this engine and dirty it up? LOL.

 

I'm really not sure! that's a decision I don't get to make, but I sure would like to hear it run for a bit!

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Has anyone successfully managed to drill/tap the M10x1.0 hole on later the steering racks to an M12x1.0 hole to accept the little white plastic Grease Bulb? The old and new rack differ, and I believe it came equipped with the Grease Bulb. But the new rack won't accept it.

 

Seems like a small thing but it's on the side of the engine bay that is pretty vacant, so I'd imagine it's easy to see or not see.

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Hey doods.

 

I was looking through some old photos of the car, and would like to know if this is how they parts are supposed to be when being put back on.

 

Carb Coolant Bypass Tube (Over as pictured here, or under the manifold nut/washer?)

 

E8JSdOp.jpg

 

brake calipers.

I've seen them plated yellow zinc, but these ones are not.

could have been replaced at some point. is it worth it to yellow zinc plate them?

 

aixNlCF.jpg

 

eWRBeCC.jpg

 

Also, no steering rack bumper/bracket clamp on the driver side. Is it normal for 1600ish VIN 240Z or should it be there? It could have been taken off. I have one to go on there if it should be there.

 

Steering shaft and shaft assembly:

Original shaft finish looks as though it was clear zinc. Not sure. And the rest of the hardware?

 

y6MTC6s.jpg

 

Still trying to figure out a lot of the finishes for most of the stuff i have at the shop. Not too much documentation for the important stuff.

Edited by Careless

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Careless, I don't have answers to your real questions, so sorry for the non-sequitur, but...
 
Is it my imagination, or are the two halves of that brake caliper being held together by just one bolt? And one of the empty holes look like it's all ovaled out? Like someone took a file to it some time in the past??
 
And about fitting the grease bulb to a newer rack, if there's enough meat to drill and re-tap, then it sounds like it would be a fine idea. Just keep the swarf out of the rack innards.  I'm not sure what real benefit the grease bulb actually has, but it would certainly look more period correct if that's the goal. Is it straight thread or tapered?
 
Also, the pic with the car up on the lift... Is that your shop with all the interesting stuff in the background?

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Here is a good discussion regarding the steering rack bumper/bracket clamp, likely was not factory installed on your early car.  My 7/70 car does have one, no idea if it was factory or dealer installed. Strangely I couldn't find any mention of it in either my 1970 or 1972 FSM.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/48076-rack-and-pinion-u-bolt-clamp-71z/?hl=%2Bsteering+%2Brack+%2Bbumper#entry437353

 

 

 

 

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Careless, I don't have answers to your real questions, so sorry for the non-sequitur, but...
 
Is it my imagination, or are the two halves of that brake caliper being held together by just one bolt? And one of the empty holes look like it's all ovaled out? Like someone took a file to it some time in the past??

 

And about fitting the grease bulb to a newer rack, if there's enough meat to drill and re-tap, then it sounds like it would be a fine idea. Just keep the swarf out of the rack innards.  I'm not sure what real benefit the grease bulb actually has, but it would certainly look more period correct if that's the goal. Is it straight thread or tapered?
 
Also, the pic with the car up on the lift... Is that your shop with all the interesting stuff in the background?

 

 

It may not have been a factory installed part then (the steering bumper). but the oiling bulb would definitely look right in that engine bay.

 

as for the shop, i removed the photo. my apologies. it's a privately owned place, so I shouldn't have posted that! those cars are all gone anyways. it's only me, a couple of trucks, and two datsuns now.

Edited by Careless

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The steering rack bumper as I know it was not a factory installed item but was installed by the dealerships if the car came back in for service, any service. It was not deemed to be so crucial that it needed a recall notice.

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The steering rack bumper as I know it was not a factory installed item but was installed by the dealerships if the car came back in for service, any service. It was not deemed to be so crucial that it needed a recall notice.

 

That makes sense to me! I'll put the bumper back on the other car, but the bulb needs attention. I need to see if it's possible to drill/tap the rack.

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earlier on this page i posted this photo with the fan clutch assembly.

 

Vop5WFw.jpg

 

you can see that the front cover is spot welded onto the assembly and thus cannot be removed. the plating is looking a little washed/dull too. it looks out of place with the rest of the fresh parts.

 

this evening and yesterday evening I developed my own method to spraying on a faux-plating look, and once it dries ill be posting photos of it. I have to wire wheel and buff couple of areas on the body of the clutch to remove overspray, but i have it resting beside a headlight housing that was plated and it looks identical. 

 

it's much better than the results i see on the Golden Cad system from eastwood, but this took a heck of a lot longer. It does have a little bit of a paint "sheen" to it, but i don't want to ruin what I produced using a flat clear that isn't compatible. But needless to say, I am proud of how well it came out, and i'll try and get some decent photos later.

 

once it dries and the housing is cleaned i'll post a photo of it on this post with an update/edit.

Edited by Careless

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Careless, I don't have answers to your real questions, so sorry for the non-sequitur, but...
 
Is it my imagination, or are the two halves of that brake caliper being held together by just one bolt? And one of the empty holes look like it's all ovaled out? Like someone took a file to it some time in the past??

 

 

I checked the calipers today at the shop, and it looks like those were sent in for cores. the ones I have are all assembled, and with the exception of the silver paint being sprayed on them- i think they're ok.

 

below are what i think the calipers are supposed to look like. does anyone have insight to this?

 

2011_00604_171.jpg

Edited by Careless

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To give credit,that photo is the same photo shown on the PMB Performance site.

 

http://www.pmbperformance.com/other-brakes/240Z_Calipers.html

 

I had them do the front calipers on my 73 after reading a thread by "conedodger" (Rob Sime) on this forum and they do absolutely beautiful work. (Porsche owners are usually pretty finicky about looks) I don't think they could be done better anywhere.

The plating is sacrificial zinc that protects the caliper according to their description of the process they use for restoration.

Not inexpensive, but I don't worry about my brakes. :D

 

Jim D.

"Zup"

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yes, the image is linked from there. LOL. I'm not concerned about the quality from them. i think it's going to take too long to get them back.

 

I'm really just interested in finding out what the OEM finish is. I can do the plating locally- it's just JIS standard yellow zinc.

 

just wondering if anyone knows what the 1970 finish actually was. I can't find pictures anywhere.

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I have had several sets apart and have never seem any trace of the yellow zinc. You would think that the inside of the mating surface between the two haves would still have some finish left if that was the case. I was"t  looking for it, just don't remember seeing any. 

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