wheee!

1976 280Z Restoration Project

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    Right, but because most of the wires didn't line up with contacts, it looks like only two wires out of all of them made contact at all:

    seats.jpg

    It's just unfortunate that it only took those two to cause the damage you're seeing.

     

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    Well, full disclosure, I moved the pins to the proper connections at first thinking it was a simple misalignment. Unfortunately without any schematics, it wasn’t until hours of internet picture searching later that I found that the ground pin was swapped with the hot so alignment wasn’t the only issue. In fact the two that were connected are the only two correct positions...

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    Here’s a good comparison of the old paint code 240 and the new DeBeers water based E2335 BRG. I think I nailed it. Close to the original colour but a lot more metallic. 
     

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    Well bummer about the seat heater controller thing. So the only option is to buy a new controller? Do they sell just the controller separate from the heating pads?

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    Nope. Basically another $100 for a new harness and a spare set of seat heaters.

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    17 hours ago, wheee! said:

    The problem wasn’t just missing the contacts, the power and ground wires were in the wrong places and the IC fried in the controller. The wires that did connect were wrong as well. 
    I have ordered a new kit to replace the entire harness. I will definitely check the connections before powering it up. 

    Wel, doesn't that just suck big time. They wouldn't replace the harness en heater under warranty? Seems rude, since it was their bodgy assembly process that caused it.

    Still a neat addition to the car.

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    Wel, doesn't that just suck big time. They wouldn't replace the harness en heater under warranty? Seems rude, since it was their bodgy assembly process that caused it.
    Still a neat addition to the car.

    I have a habit of buying items well in advance of needing them. The seat heaters were bought off eBay about a year ago. No warranty or return was still possible. A risk you take, but overall I have saved money buying things this way. After 6 years of ownership and 5 years of restoration, I budgeted $500 Cdn a month for purchases, not including things like suspension and brakes etc that obviously went over budget. A good example of this is the seat covers I put in the car came from [mention]zKars [/mention] years ago and I just put them on this week! I have a shift knob I bought in 2014.... never been out of the package.
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    6 hours ago, wheee! said:

    I have a habit of buying items well in advance of needing them.

    Same here, then I forget I already have them and buy them a second time.

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    Same here, then I forget I already have them and buy them a second time.

    I’ve done that a couple of time’s...

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    So after 6 hours of wiring and pin checking, I have a functioning set of flashers! Hazards and indicators work now! Amazing what a 75 harness connected to a 74 sub harness and a 76 flasher button Can do once you figure out all the wiring changes...

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    @zKars Here’s another one of those things that are similar yet not alike! Oh, and I found the fog light connections. They are on the 74 sub harness. Unfortunately, they do not pin out to the 75 harness and go nowhere. 

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    Details matter... added the gas flap and the rubber bumpers!

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    Edited by wheee!

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    Oh look! Progress.....well, there is progress but you can’t see much of it outside the car...!

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    Edited by wheee!

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    Excited to receive the new supra 3.0 larger injectors today! Then disappointed to realize I forgot I will need new plugs for them and have to redo the fuel injection harness... 😩

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    Edited by wheee!

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    Sometimes good ideas create so much work! I am installing a Gentex Homelink mirror in the car and will probably run a radar detector too, sooo..... How hard could this be? Well, the channel for the mirror mount is double walled and tight tolerances to run five wires... separate fused hot leads, one for Homelink always on, two for accessory power and two ground leads. I used Cat 5 wiring in twisted pairs, one pair for each circuit and a common ground. Redundant wires to increase signal integrity and strength.

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    Edited by wheee!

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    On to the interior trim...

    18E52EAC-32AF-4BA3-9496-82F6BE57A9B6.jpeg

    Edited by wheee!

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    That is not tar based sound deadener. It is butyl and it will take a semi truck to pull it off... been on the car for a couple years and some pretty hot days already. It’s there for good...

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    Having fun with arts and crafts today...

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    And because ‘squirrel!’....! I also tackled the quarter window rebuilds. Surprised at the amount of factory defects in the glass. Bubbles and pits. Surprising. Mounting them as is, a bit of nostalgia. Glass is okay. A few scratches etc but hey, they’re 40 years old!

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    Small things today. Got the door chrome molding in. Window still doesn’t like to move freely... Headliner in. Quarter glass mocked up for positioning.  

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    Change the quarter glass gaskets. It’s fun they said. No problem they said...
    well, of course the fun began with a popped spot weld on one corner reinforcing bracket causing the bottom corner to pull apart. The thicker and fresher new gaskets for good, but they definitely require a little more exertion to get the frame on. I ended up making friend with my big clamp kit and got the corners together. I drilled and tapped a new hole through the popped welded corner and added a screw. The end result is great and the windows will be solid and water tight now. Whew!

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    I will need to order those new metal and rubber gaskets that go on the edge facing the door. Mine are pretty worn. They’ll do for now as they can be easily removed later. 

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    More warts! Okay, so don’t install the power window motors with any kind of curve. They just won’t work with these old mechanical regulators. I readjusted the motors to accommodate a straight line. Thanks to Pte Grinder for his assistance...
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