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wheee!

1976 280Z Restoration Project

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17 hours ago, wheee! said:

The small size of the Vintage Air controls will also allow me to move them a little to the left and add another item to that panel. I'm thinking a twin 2.1A USB slot for phone charging, etc.

Was  it you that said you're also going with a RetroSound radio head unit? If so, it does have a couple of USB dongles. I asked RetroSound if those will charge and they said no so of course I had to test. They seem to charge my Moto X4 just fine. I use Bluetooth from the phone to the radio head unit to play music from the PowerAmp app on my phone. The phone function of the RetroSound also works great. I just clipped the mic to the dashboard bottom on the driver side just above the console.

Wilkes

Here's my cruisin' song list  🙂

Car songs.jpg

Edited by w3wilkes

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I was planning on a retro sound unit but I am still not 100% decided.
Any USB port will deliver 5v or it is not USB. Part of being a standard is to, well maintain a standard!
I am also planning on discreetly including a USB printer style port that interfaces with the Haltech ECU. That way I can plug a laptop in without having to have access to the ECU.

Edited by wheee!
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Found a home for the IAC along with some blingy breather filters for it and the valve cover.
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Looks like the fuel filter will fit just perfect here too! Should line up almost perfect to the fuel rail. The return line will route in below the top 90 and back to the pressure regulator.
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The feed line will go to the front of the engine and push out the back of the rail near the firewall.
This will also allow me to wire tuck the injector lines beneath the fuel line!
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10 hours ago, wheee! said:

Why hello there tank breather filter!

The engine bay is really looking sharp, love the coordinated colours,  but why are you putting the tank breather up front? Your just going to smell it a lot more than if you mounted it some where at the back of the car.

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Having never experienced the joy of driving these cars, I am unsure as to what to expect from the gas smell. It may be present or may not... The tank evap unit will be removed and the hoses recirc'd back in the rear quarter. The existing vapour return line is theoretically a feed to the tank. It will still have some fumes, but would they present a problem so far forward? I don't know. It is an easy fix at the rear if I remove it. Even if I vent in the rear of the car, under the body let's say, I may not remove the return line that I installed. The filter may end up being window dressing serving no real purpose.

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1 hour ago, wheee! said:

Having never experienced the joy of driving these cars, I am unsure as to what to expect from the gas smell. It may be present or may not... The tank evap unit will be removed and the hoses recirc'd back in the rear quarter. The existing vapour return line is theoretically a feed to the tank. It will still have some fumes, but would they present a problem so far forward? I don't know. It is an easy fix at the rear if I remove it. Even if I vent in the rear of the car, under the body let's say, I may not remove the return line that I installed. The filter may end up being window dressing serving no real purpose.

You could aways put the charcoal cannister back in and re-attach the vacuum line to the intake that will handle the fumes properly.

Edited by zKars

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Not to be "that guy" but the connection of your braided fuel line below the regulator to the hard fuel line concerns me a little.  I see you have it hose clamped.  Braided fuel line doesn't clamp very well especially for higher pressure systems used with fuel injection.  Please double check that so your sure of it. 

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I hear you... I am looking for some hard line to AN6 fittings as we speak. It is on my to do list!

Edit: You spurred me to action and i finally got them ordered today.  👍

Edited by wheee!

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The funny thing is that the factory used clamps all over the FI lines....

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Dropped the oil pan tonight and cleaned it out. Some media blasting and a day at the parts spa will clean it up ready for powder coating!
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Surprised at the amount of pitting I found on the bottom of the pan!
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Guess we will see how it looks after powder coating.

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Wow. That's some pitting. Are you sure none of those pits go all the way through? Was there oil in the pan in recent past, or did you purchase it dry?

18 hours ago, wheee! said:

The funny thing is that the factory used clamps all over the FI lines....

Yeah, that was my reaction as well. @ksechler did specifically say the braided lines didn't clamp well. Maybe the non-braided original lines aren't a problem? Hopefully he'll chime back in with more info?

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44 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Wow. That's some pitting. Are you sure none of those pits go all the way through? Was there oil in the pan in recent past, or did you purchase it dry?

Yeah, that was my reaction as well. @ksechler did specifically say the braided lines didn't clamp well. Maybe the non-braided original lines aren't a problem? Hopefully he'll chime back in with more info?

The inside of the pan is flawless, no issues. The metal is very thick on the bottom of the pan and I was surprised at it's dry weight. It is cosmetic damage I'm sure but I may pick up another pan to refinish in better condition.

I like the idea of the hard line to AN fittings anyways, so I ordered them just because... as for the braided line, it is a rubber line on the inside (not PTFE) , surrounded by steel reinforcing wire and fibre braid. A clamp would still hold it fine, I'm sure.

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5 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Wow. That's some pitting. Are you sure none of those pits go all the way through? Was there oil in the pan in recent past, or did you purchase it dry?

Yeah, that was my reaction as well. @ksechler did specifically say the braided lines didn't clamp well. Maybe the non-braided original lines aren't a problem? Hopefully he'll chime back in with more info?

When doing my own fuel system I did some research and found that hose clamps aren't recommended for braided line especially when using fuel injection.  The line is too stiff and it doesn't compress well, I guess.  Also there is a specific type of flare that is supposed to be used.  I didn't have the tool to do the flare.  I ended up using a compression fitting instead.  

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16 minutes ago, ksechler said:

When doing my own fuel system I did some research and found that hose clamps aren't recommended for braided line especially when using fuel injection.  The line is too stiff and it doesn't compress well, I guess.  Also there is a specific type of flare that is supposed to be used.  I didn't have the tool to do the flare.  I ended up using a compression fitting instead.  

Could your research have been about steel braid, not cloth?

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10 hours ago, wheee! said:

The inside of the pan is flawless, no issues. The metal is very thick on the bottom of the pan and I was surprised at it's dry weight. It is cosmetic damage I'm sure but I may pick up another pan to refinish in better condition.

Cool. If it's just cosmetic, can you spackle some extra powder coat into the divots before you spray the remainder? Use the plastic coating as "filler"?

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Yes and no. It works somewhat.
I will do a little JBWeld bondo work. It’s good to 500 degrees F

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Received the EZ Clip A/C hose kit and connectors along with some unicoils last night. Now I can get the Evap unit buttoned up and in place hopefully. I will leave the engine bay side uncut and ready to finish for when the engine goes back in.

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Cleaned up the pan and layed down some JB Weld like bondo. When it cures, I will sand it down smooth for powder coating.

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