Recommended Posts

    The choke is working correctly, and can move freely up and down. If I read the plugs the mixture looks good. I don't need choke to start it, just use the starter motor 2 times and it starts.

    Just filled 38 liters of 91 octane again to it in Germany ( cheaper gas ). So I'm assuming it's a little more optimistic, maybe 21 mpg, I will see what the car does on fuel economy when driven more overtime.

    Yesterday I let a local tire shop balance the front wheels ( took him 10 minutes to each wheel, and we got a 0 to 0 reading ), and they will do the rear wheels next saturday. In the beginning I had quite a vibration above 70 mph, but after some driving that almost seems gone now, weird?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Yesterday I let a local tire shop balance the front wheels ( took him 10 minutes to each wheel, and we got a 0 to 0 reading ), and they will do the rear wheels next saturday. In the beginning I had quite a vibration above 70 mph, but after some driving that almost seems gone now, weird?

    Hi Bart,

    I had that a couple of years ago when I started driving after the winter. After a week it slowly went away. I wasn't sure if I was getting use to it or what? but then I realised:stupid: the tyres had flat spots from sitting to long in one spot. Since then its on stands in the winter and havn't had that problem since.

    That could be your problem as well?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Thanks!

    Okay, so today I took the Z for another drive to get alot of new parts.. points,rotor, distributor cap, etc basically all for the ignition ( allready changed the wires which made good difference ). On my way, halfway the Z began sputtering like madness, and was almost unable to drive. I managed to get back home somehow...

    I replaced all the ignition parts, and now it runs like a dream, and goes beyond 5 k rpm, which before it didn't :D

    Also put a new oil pressure sender unit on the block, and I finally have oil pressure showing on the dash now !

    Next problem for now: it's hard to get into gear and grinds. I have taken the master clutch cylinder off for new cups. And will see what it does. I don't want to wreck the gearbox from this old lady.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    little update:

    I took the master cilinder from the clutch off, but decided just as well take the slave cilinder off to. Now both will get cleaned and new seals, brought them away for rebuild.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Great progress - bet she's loving all the attention!

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I bet she does :P

    Okay, so the auto parts stores couldn't get a rebuild kit for the master clutch cylinder, only the slave cilinder. So with alot of searching, I found a new one:

    2qduz2w.jpg

    My brother helped bleeding the clutch, and ...smooth as silk now !

    Bart

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Hi Bart, did you get the clutch master cylinder in NL? Just wondering. If I cant get parts from the nissan dealer I generally end up buying in the US at Rock Auto or MSA. They are the ones with the best shipping rates to NL IMO.

    Chas

    Edited by EuroDat

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Yeah, ít works great now :)

    But yesterday I was driving, and the car started sputtering again.. :(

    I just replaced the NGK plugs a few days ago for the ones that said in the manual.. BPR6ES.

    Took the plugs out and looked like this ( compare with the picture of the B7ES previous page ):

    6fv4o2.jpg

    Weird or what? It ran good again right away when I put the most basic B7ES plugs in. The 6's says made in France, the other one made in Japan, maybe that's it LOL.

    Edited by bartsscooterservice

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Okay, I got a few things to do. First of all my steering wheel is vibrating above 60 mph, and I got a wobble throughout the car at 30 mph.

    The tires are pretty old from 2002, and they show a slight height difference on the surface when rotating on the balancing machine ( I don't know if this can cause a wobble ? ). Tires are good, but maybe I do need to put new ones?

    I got the car on the bridge, and noticed a play ( only noticable when I put pressure left to right on the wheel with both hands ) in the front right wheel ( passenger side ). Best thing I can examine is that the inner wheel bearing is shot. The outher conical wheel bearing where loose on both sides, but still okay. I torqued them tight again, and that did seem to solve quite a bit vibration through the steering wheel, but still there.

    I'm also noticing slight play ( when I pull hard up and down with my hand ), on the tie rods.

    So I'll try to order a front wheel bearing kit and maybe tie rods to? What do you guys think? Can the old tires also cause problems, excessive stress to the steering column?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Bart - Just checking in on your progress today. For what it's worth, the car always ran rich when I had it as well. I would say I changed plugs every 1000 miles or so (that was like once a year) because I could never seem to set the carbs lean enough. Also had trouble with the choke not fully closing ... but I'm sure you remedied that already with the carb rebuild. Regarding the vibration over 70, I don't think it's the tires as I recall a minor shake as wel,l and that was on the prior set of tires. Good luck. Alan

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Bart - Just checking in on your progress today. For what it's worth, the car always ran rich when I had it as well. I would say I changed plugs every 1000 miles or so (that was like once a year) because I could never seem to set the carbs lean enough. Also had trouble with the choke not fully closing ... but I'm sure you remedied that already with the carb rebuild. Regarding the vibration over 70, I don't think it's the tires as I recall a minor shake as wel,l and that was on the prior set of tires. Good luck. Alan

    Hey Alan,

    Thanks for your feedback. The choke problem is solved,( the carbs needed cleaning badly ! ) but when I was working on the carbs I did notice about the needles, I think they where changed for richer ones, as I noticed alot of room around the nozzle. The basic plugs seem to hold fine now, it's just drinking some more fuel hehe.

    The tires...it could be aswell something else :) What I notice is that around 30 mph, the whole car wobbles, like your on a bumpy road..maybe that's the best way to describe it. " a wiggle through the car " It goes through the whole car, but the steering wheel is steady, the steering wheel starts to shake above 60 mph ( which is horror on the motorway ). I checked engine mounts but they seem okay. I will try check more parts, like the driveshaft for play when I have some time.

    @ Blue: yeah, it clearly running rich. What I find odd however, is that the heat range 7 plugs color nicely... and the 6 plugs turn all black and fail to ignite.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    The shaking my car had went on for some time until the problem was found.

    The ny-lock (self locking) nut at the top of the strut ( holding the shock rod to the insulator) had come loose and wobbled out the 'D' in the insulator and nearly wore the shock rod in half. It was found by raising & lowering of that corner & watching everything move, removing the little black cap showed the loose nut. Replaced shock and insulator, no more shake. :) Just a thought.

    Bonzi Lon

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    The car is designed for NGK plug heat of 6. Since you are using NGK's in your tests, an NGK 5 is hotter and an NGK 7 is colder. Typically 5's will be cleaner because they will burn off more residue. What you experienced seems to be opposite where the colder 7 was cleaner.

    I think that some other factor may be at play. Maybe put a few 7's in with 6's to rule this out.

    If you don't have an O2 wideband then try measurements by reading plugs after 5min of idle then after 5min of cruising a 60mph (cut ignition carefully at speed then coast to a stop...don't lock the steering wheel).

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    The car is designed for NGK plug heat of 6. Since you are using NGK's in your tests, an NGK 5 is hotter and an NGK 7 is colder. Typically 5's will be cleaner because they will burn off more residue. What you experienced seems to be opposite where the colder 7 was cleaner.

    I think that some other factor may be at play. Maybe put a few 7's in with 6's to rule this out.

    If you don't have an O2 wideband then try measurements by reading plugs after 5min of idle then after 5min of cruising a 60mph (cut ignition carefully at speed then coast to a stop...don't lock the steering wheel).

    I know about the heat range from plugs since I use it for my work also ( scooters ), and I would also think a 5 or 6 would burn cleaner, since it will get hotter. But somehow the 7's color nice, and the hotter ones fool. I do know it's running rich, since I see black fumes when flooring the pedal when car is on the driveway when engine is hot. I think the needles must have been changed somewhere along the way like you suggested for richer ones.

    My main concern now is getting the vibrations out of the car :)

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    A little update from our '' beloved '' goverment LOL.

    The tax free rule for classic cars was 25 years or older, now they upped that to 40 years. So I'm Lucky. That means anything above 73 will have to pay tax :(

    Akkoord over wegenbelasting voor oldtimers - Binnenland | Het laatste nieuws uit Nederland leest u op Telegraaf.nl [binnenland]

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    A little update from our '' beloved '' goverment LOL.

    The tax free rule for classic cars was 25 years or older, now they upped that to 40 years. So I'm Lucky. That means anything above 73 will have to pay tax.---

    Down here in NZ we pay around half the usual annual car license fee

    For a car over 40 years old.:)

    Edited by olzed

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Bart - Just checking in on your progress today. For what it's worth, the car always ran rich when I had it as well. I would say I changed plugs every 1000 miles or so (that was like once a year) because I could never seem to set the carbs lean enough. Also had trouble with the choke not fully closing ... but I'm sure you remedied that already with the carb rebuild. Regarding the vibration over 70, I don't think it's the tires as I recall a minor shake as wel,l and that was on the prior set of tires. Good luck. Alan

    Alan you have any more information about the shaking? Maybe it can help my find the problem.. I just checked all the bolts on the underside of the car, driveline and engine, and some where loose. And I lubed all the grease points. It did help a little again with the vibration, but it's still there.

    And about the carbs, any idea if the previous owner swopped needles?

    Bart

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Did you try swapping front and back wheels?

    How do the wheels align with the hub? Are the centre holes in the wheel "hubcentric"?

    FYI my car was "snakey" at high rpms due to a failed strut insert in the back.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now