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After my car heats up, I cannot shift into reverse while the engine is running. Just grinds. I have to turn the car off, then put into reverse, and restart. If its cold, I have no issue putting the car into reverse with the engine running.

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Strange that it's doin' it when hot. Otherwise these are classic symptoms of a clutch failing to disengage properly. Slave cylinder or master cylinder seals, or low clutch fluid. These are my first thoughts.

So, I got reverse back my adjusting the slave a little more. I think what my main issue is the length of the rod on the master. I cannot get the peddle height to the factory recommended 8.78". I am just under 6" to make the connection. Anyone know how long the rod should be on the clutch master cylinder? Regretfully, I do not have the old one to measure but didnt think they were any different.

I measured the old one from my 1976 Z, off the car, and the rod measures 3 3/4" to the end of the rod from the firewall mounting surface. Fully extended out of the bore by the internal spring. 2 5/8" fully compressed. Stroke length of 1 1/8".

The auto store cross-reference shows that they should be the same cylinder. Hope that helps.

If you disconnect the rod from the pedal at the clevis the rod should extend out to its maximum, from the internal spring, which would be the desired starting point to get maximum travel, and slave cylinder movement. Might give you a clue on how far off the pedal is from what the master cylinder needs.

I had to extend the rod by 1". Works perfectly now. Not sure if its the manufacture or a misprint in the cross-reference book. I havent taken it out again to measure total length.

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