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BoldUlysses

Turn Signal Stalk Action = Mushy

Your Z's Turn Signal Action?  

11 members have voted

  1. 1. Your Z's Turn Signal Action?

    • Mushy
      5
    • Crisp
      2
    • Somewhere in between
      4


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Is it just my Z, or is the action of the turn signal stalk on our cars incredibly mushy?

Call me OCD, but the flimsy stalk and ooze into the detent at the end of its travel definitely have a somewhat negative effect on my overall driving experience in the Z.

Other cars, whose turn signal stalks snap into position with a positive, non-flimsy *click* or *thunk* just feel that much more special and substantial to drive.

It doesn't help, either, than the action of the headlight switch is excellent and free of play.

So is it just my Z? If not, does it bother anyone else? And is there anything that can be done?

Edited by BoldUlysses

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I know it's picky but I have the same issue. My HL switch is just fine but the TS switch sucks. I had it cleaned and lubed but that didn't change the mushy feel. I've just learned to make sure they've fully canceled after making a turn.

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I'm not certain how bad yours is, but my switches were very comparable to other import cars of that era. Very similar to my MGB, for example. Certainly didn't bother me.

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I cleaned and lubed mine and it works fine. I hate it when those little things don't work properly.

Chuck

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I know it's picky but I have the same issue. My HL switch is just fine but the TS switch sucks. I had it cleaned and lubed but that didn't change the mushy feel. I've just learned to make sure they've fully canceled after making a turn.

Yeah, I have to do that too. There's also a certain sector of the wheel's rotation when the turn signal won't click into its detent. Nice touch, that.

I'm not certain how bad yours is, but my switches were very comparable to other import cars of that era. Very similar to my MGB, for example. Certainly didn't bother me.

I gather it's similar. Heck, my dad's 1989 F150 had a horrible stalk too. Just trying to see if it's typical for the Z and if there's any way to improve it. It's not a dealbreaker by any means.

I cleaned and lubed mine and it works fine. I hate it when those little things don't work properly.

When you say "works fine," does that mean the mushy feel is gone and there's some crispness to the switch's action?

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Mine is "mushy" but I live with it. Eventually, I'll take a look and see if I can make it better. It's a ways down the to-do list though...

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It is called ''character'' , also normal 70's old technology , mine has it to and I like the vintage feel ;)

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The mushy feeling is gone and there is some crispness. I can feel it click into place but it's not overly mechanical. There's a hint of mush. I have a 1970 Road Runner and it's very mechanical. I can feel the lever flex before it clicks into place. That's not a good feeling.

Chuck

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Mine is "mushy" but I live with it. Eventually, I'll take a look and see if I can make it better. It's a ways down the to-do list though...

Same here. It's not something I'm going to tackle right away, but it did cross my mind.

It is called ''character'' , also normal 70's old technology , mine has it to and I like the vintage feel ;)

Ah, the old bug/feature debate... :)

The mushy feeling is gone and there is some crispness. I can feel it click into place but it's not overly mechanical. There's a hint of mush. I have a 1970 Road Runner and it's very mechanical. I can feel the lever flex before it clicks into place. That's not a good feeling.

Chuck

I'll try what you did. For the record, there's a difference between a nice, solid *click* or *thunk* (any Honda, BMW, etc) and a cheap plastic *crack* like the turn signal stalk my parents' old Oldsmobile Ciera had. Sounds like the latter is more in the vein of your Road Runner's.

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I've fixed two of them in recent past. First was easy... I just lubed the detent balls with some light oil and cleaned out the accumulated gunk out of the corners where the balls are supposed to snap. Went from mushy to crisp. Here's a few pics:

turnswitch1.jpg

detentballlower2.jpg

Second one was NOT easy... I tried lubing it first and that didn't to anything. Figured out that the problem was that the pivot point for the assy was loose. It is knurled and then pressed into the casting and it's never supposed to move again, but mine had started to squirm around and once it starts to move it just keeps getting worse.

I pulled the old pivot point out, bored and threaded the hole and made a new insert to thread into place. Works better than new. Very crisp now and has very little slop in every direction. Since I was making new insert, I was able to control the geometry and sizing in other areas as well. Made a new tighter fitting pin for the handle while I was in there... I love it now!

turnpivot1.jpg

turnpivot2.jpg

turnpivot3.jpg

Not worth the time I put into it, but it turned out better than just using epoxy to glue the original pivot into place. I just hope yours isn't that serious. :)

Haha!!! And here I thought it was just ME!!

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Great pictures too. Does anyone know if it might be possible to solder the original brass looking part to the pot metal pivot (or whatever that metal is called) the handle is mounted in?

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Nope. Soldering isn't an option. The brass colored original pivot is actually a plated steel (cad or chromate), and the casting is either aluminum or zinc.

Out of curiosity... Why? Is yours loose too?

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It is mushier than I would like. I don't have the machining skills to make the replacement part so I was trying to see if there was another way to tighten up the existing brass part.

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Mine was mushy and actually smoked when on for extended periods. I went through it twice. I then bought one from Dave Irwin (traded mine in). It's been great since.

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In my search for wiper wiring continuity I rememebered this thread, I had to take my steering wheel off anyway because it was in the wrong place slightly. I found that even after cleaning, it wasn't exactly right. Then I noticed that the cover plate was bent. The cover plate has a hole that the pivot point of the switch goes in. Mine did not go in and it just bowed the plate up, leaving the pivot pin loose on one end or maybe not loose but being mashed down. I miked the pin and gauged the hole with a drill bit. No way that pin was going in that hole. I put the cover in my vise and with the aid of two crecent wrenches staightened it and then drilled the hole bigger. I left .05 clearance and that feels about right. My bet is that the reason that the anchor end comes loose is that the cover plate did not support the other end. Anyway, that helped my swithc action a lot, it still ain't great, but is better.

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