Initial review of MSA weber 40 DCOE carb kit

[Zedyone_kenobi]

You can set up a crank trigger ignition for 399 dollars? I did not know that. I am running a recurved factory dizzy at the moment, no vacuum advance.

I was thinking of going mallory as well, but will hold off on pulling that trigger until I have the carbs more in tune. Never change that many things at once! You never want to second guess your carbs AND your ignition if you have a choice.

[LeonV]

You can set up a crank trigger ignition for 399 dollars? I did not know that. I am running a recurved factory dizzy at the moment, no vacuum advance.

I was thinking of going mallory as well, but will hold off on pulling that trigger until I have the carbs more in tune. Never change that many things at once! You never want to second guess your carbs AND your ignition if you have a choice.

Yep.

I got a crank trigger wheel and sensor mount for $150, EDIS module, coil pack and VR sensor for $50, the Megajolt controller for $175, and assorted wiring/relays add up to about $25. So yes, crank triggered ignition for $400 is easily possible. With that said, it's possible to get the EDIS parts, trigger wheel, and sensor mount much cheaper if you do some fab work yourself. I bought everything ready to go since I didn't have the time to trawl junkyards and fab custom parts. Meaning you can have crank triggered ignition for $250-300.

I was ready to go to a ZX distributor until I realized this.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

That is awesome! Thanks Leon!

UPDATE:

I figured out my return spring situation, and for now I am happy, but I forsee a much cooler solution in the future using the fuel rail. However, that is hooked up.

I fired up the CARTER pump, and yes, it is a bit loud, but once the car is running I do not think it will be an issue.

I had a leak at the pump I had to tinker with to get to seal. Finally found some yellow teflon tape approved for fuel and it sealed it up tight. Absolutely NO AN fitting leaked on ounce, so that is money well spent.

I had no other fuel leaks save one. I noticed some fuel on my heat shield... and then noticed that number two carb was dripping a bit. I had the pressure up to 3 psi at the time. Holley reg works with ease.

I am guessing my float could be off, which would not surprise me, as absolutely NOTHING has been right yet with this install. Every single thing required some form of modification to work.

So I am guessing that in order to check the float, I have to pull the top cover off. Before I set out and do a huge search, is there a quick way to set the float?

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Thought about it laying in bed this morning. I have the rear of the car jacked up quite a bit so that may be the cause of my leak. I will check today

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Okay, I could not sleep, so I got up and took the car off jack stands and adjusted the fuel pressure to 2-2.5 psi, and let the pump run for about 30 seconds.

Zero leaks from anywhere. I am going to set the idle mixture screws to 1.5 turns out, the idle speed screws to 1/2 turn from contact with the throttle, and have a go today after work!!!

Wahoo, this is getting exciting!

Well maybe I should put those springs in the bottom of the carbs holding the heat shield instead of a washer... hummm, okay after that it is vroom vroom time.

[240260280z]

Some Webers leak where aux venturi couples to the body of the carb and fuel passes through to the main circuit.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Is that a defect blue, or is just an inherent Weber 'thing'

I will keep an eye on it.

[240260280z]

On some versions with the spring retention clips, the seal is not so good due to weak spring.

Also if the fuel is too high, it may slosh through the main circuit.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

I got the car running last night. I have not balanced them yet, but it starts and idles very easily. I do not think my return spring is strong enough though. It idles smoothly, but does not idle any lower than 1400 rpm. But I have today to work on that. I will start by getting the air flow balanced then work on getting the air fuel correct.

I can see the balancing act here. YOu want to get the carbs balanced with the idle low enough while not uncovering the first progression hole. It is a very interesting set of interdependencies...

I am really looking forward to this. I am VERY happy I have a wideband O2 installed right now!!

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Drove the car today. WHAHOOOOO

I first disconnected the linkages from the throttle bar on each carb. Then I unscrewed progression hole cap. I adjusted each throttle plate so that none of the first hole was uncovered, but was just going to be uncovered upon first movement of the throttle shaft. I then unscrewed the idle mixture screws one full turn as a way to get the car to idle at all with only a 1/4 or 1/2 turn from fully seated.

THe car settled into a nice 1100 rpm idle once fully warm. I could not fit my new synchronizer on the air horns as there is just no room, so I ordered the snorkel for it today. So I used my unisyn.

Now as you know Weber guys, the only way to increase or decrease air flow into the car is to move the throttle shafts. BUT that may uncover a progression hole. My solution to this was to start over and adjust all the idle speed screws so that I had a little more play area before I uncovered a progression hole and then start to sync the air flow. Well long story short, I got them all pretty close, but my unisyn varies from run to run, so I am going to stop fiddling with air flow until I can use my real tool. First drive, I was ultra lean. I would go completely dead with any application of the throttle at all. Like shutting down the engine all together, and my wideband would read 20:1. OUCH. So I adjusted the idle mixture screws a half turn at a time until I was reading about 12:1 at idle. Then I set out on my next drive.

WOW, I was thrilled with the response. Pulls very nicely. I was almost scared to rev it with part throttle to my 4500 rpm point. But I did in second gear and it was smoooooooooth.

Let me reiterate. I have ZERO popping through my exhaust at 4500 rpm at part throttle.

My only problem now is that I do not have the pedal adjusted correctly, as I never get full throttle. I will need to get my wife out there to help me do that. But the car needs no choke at all to start from cold. I have not even checked the timing, but the driveability is amazing.

THe sound.. heee..heee.. I am still smiling.

I just wish I could get them to idle lower. I am stuck idling at 1000 rpm now. I will play with that idle speed circuit again when I have more time. But she is running and looking great.

Oh I discovered slow leak on my fuel filter added before the pump by the tank! DRAT. I should have used teflon tape on those fittings.

And now the pics!

I took off that filter holder just for you Carl!

Edited April 18, 2012 by Zedyone_kenobi

[pjoe]

Glad to hear they are running good right off the bat. Love the look of your engine bay. I just got mine adjusted and running pretty smooth. I just took the air horns off on the back carb to sync carbs then put them back on after and seems to be good. The snorkel would be nice though. Now drive it an enjoy.

Brian

[Travel'n Man]

There are a few things you will notice right off the bat - no acceleration surge (dumping the linkage is not a bad thing / once you have tried the cable) - immediate torque difference - and that triple carb sound. It'll put a smile on your face every time you drive your car......you gotta love it!!

From my understanding on my Mikuni's the correct idle is approx 1000 rpm's - you may not need to go any lower - what are the idle spec's for Webers?

Edited April 19, 2012 by Travel'n Man