Initial review of MSA weber 40 DCOE carb kit

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Bingo guys I found where the rear green wire ends up.

I hooked up a voltmeter to the green wire in back and propped up the meter near the rear tire.

Then ran a 12v hot jumper straight to the battery and used that as my ping signal:cool:

I looked for green wires and low and behold I found my connector and started to get 12.7 volts back to the pump wire HUZZAH!

I just need to hook it up to a 12V switched power (like the black/white wire directly next to it on the same plastic plug shown in blues

Picture) and fit a 20 amp fuse and relay and presto! Power to the pump!

This really goes to show the value of an original car who has all stock wiring

Edited April 10, 2012 by Zedyone_kenobi

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Under the glove box corner of the cabin. I think it is a seperate wire plug and it's green, just fish around all those wire bundles under the dash by the glove box, you will find it.

I might wire my relay in tomorrow and I will take pics if I do.

The UPS man showed up today with a Mikuni install kit:)

Oh yeah let the fabrication party begin!

[rocketdog]

My Webers are due to arrive in a few days from MSA (even on SALE!). Been pondering this for some time and have stacks of copies of threads from this and other websites. Lots of good feedback, ideas, problems and solutions! It will be a fun project with no deadlines.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

best of luck buddy!

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

I finally was able to get back into the garage late tonight.

I got my throttle cable hooked up, which was of course, not a direct fit and required some clever drilling and filing. With that being said, I have a new name for my pain...

It is called the heat shield.

How the sam HELL do you get that thing bolted on with those stupid little springs that came in the weber kit. There is just no room to install them!!!

Any tricks!

[Diseazd]

Check with Eiji......He gets a number of different heat shields from Japan.....he might have a solution to your problem.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I did the next best thing, I read the directions! I got her on.

Today I just about finished up the install. I have all the electrics hooked up. Verified all the fittings are tightened. I have the throttle cable ran, and attached to the rod. I have all the arms adjusted to exactly the same length. The only thing I have to do is get a longer return spring somewhere, as my SU return spring is not going to work out as well as I thought it would. Then turn the key and check for fuel pressure and leaks!

Then it is set the carbs at a good starting setup and let her rip!!!

Very exciting!

I am looking forward to hearing her run. This has been a long process, as every single part going on the car had to be modified or made to work with the OEM datsun stuff. I guess if I were not abject to cutting up my car, it could have gone faster, but the OEM car lasted 42 years, and I do not mean to do anything that will not last another 42.

[Carl Beck]

You need a chrome - LED Flashlight to snap into what was the fuel filter holder.... Or maybe a Mr. K bobble head...

It just looks like something is missing there... actually it is... but it shouldn't look that way...

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited April 16, 2012 by Carl Beck

[Mike W]

Not sure what heat shield you are using so I may not be of much help, but I will tell you how I have done this on my setup. And you are correct, it is tricky.

I have one of the aluminum heat shields that were made for Webers and I believe was sourced from Japan. I learned about it on this forum but would have to go and do a search to find the thread. It was actually pretty expensive for what it is, but it does work well and although tricky to install, it can be done.

So I start by installing each of the carbs using the springs, nuts as well as a washer that I place between the spring and carb itself. I leave the bottom ones as loose as I can get them without having the nuts fall off.

I then maneuver the heat shield onto the studs by starting from the front end making sure that the shield is sandwiched between the washer and the carb. Once that first stud is in place, I will tighten up the nut a bit by hand. Now as you move the heat shield in place you just have to make sure that you have it sandwiched between the washers and carbs and once I have all of that aligned, I will tighter the last nut (closest to the firewall). You really cannot see in this area so you end up having to do this all by feel, but I found that after doing it the first time and developing a process, subsequent installs were pretty easy.

The other challenge is tightening the nuts as there is not a lot of room to get a wrench in there. I believe that I use a 3/8 drive socket with extension and it just barely fits, but I can manage to get everything tight.

In any case, hope that helps. If you need it I can look up the vendor where I purchased the shield as I don't recall off hand where I sourced that part.

Mike.

[rocketdog]

Looks great..........now I'm starting mine. Are you going with the stock distributer with vacuum disconnected? I'm lookng at the Mallory w/ mechanical advance ($400 from Summit; $500 from MSA) Got the SU's and header off. Sprayed PB Blaster on stud nuts and they came off very easy. Easy loosen w/socket then unscrewed w/ fingers. Had to disconnect the streering at the coupler to allow my header to slide enough to clear the studs. Have new studs on order but what's there look great. First time header was off since installed in 1978. I'm going with Mike W's Fuel Log w/ braided SS lines.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I am using the same heat shield sourced from Japan. Right now I have it installed with Zero springs, and just use washers and bolts. I found it easier to get a socket on the bottom nuts if I took the air horns off. REally gives you some hand room to maneuver. That washer technique is a good one Mike. My problem is when I installed my studs I used that hardcore aviation grade locktite my dad gave me. And I installed them so that their is not much stud length on the outside...(:stupid:), But now that I have everything held in place, I could probably remove one at a time and install the spring on each one.

Other than that, I only need to find some return springs today at a local parts store.

Carl, Mr. K bobblehead would be perfect! hahah

[LeonV]

Looks great..........now I'm starting mine. Are you going with the stock distributer with vacuum disconnected? I'm lookng at the Mallory w/ mechanical advance ($400 from Summit; $500 from MSA) Got the SU's and header off. Sprayed PB Blaster on stud nuts and they came off very easy. Easy loosen w/socket then unscrewed w/ fingers. Had to disconnect the streering at the coupler to allow my header to slide enough to clear the studs. Have new studs on order but what's there look great. First time header was off since installed in 1978. I'm going with Mike W's Fuel Log w/ braided SS lines.

Jeebus! You can have a fully-programmable crank-triggered ignition system for the amount and ditch the distributor altogether. That is what I'm in the process of doing on my 260Z.