So the highest octane has a higher boiling/vaporization temp?  And has the least amount of oil, right?  

4 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

So the highest octane has a higher boiling/vaporization temp?  And has the least amount of oil, right?  

 I don't know that for sure. Could be the higher boiling point of water.

On ‎01‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 8:56 PM, Zed Head said:

Saw your post on another forum and thought of something that might make it easier to actually do something.  You can leave the metal fuel rail in place and just disconnect it, running a rubber hose to replace its function.  If it has a positive effect then you can decide whether or not to remove the metal rail.  All you need is some hose and a screwdriver for the hose clamps.  No need to unbolt anything anything, just pull a hose end off and replace it with another hose.

Zedhead,,

TO be honest i still have not swapped the original Steel fuel rail that i have wrapped with heat reflective cloth. However, i did replaced a 170F Original Nissan Thermostat with 160F Stanton Thermostat to make the car run cooler. Left the car at idle after driving for 20 mins. Result: RPM started to drop randomly from 950 to 500 RPM tending to stall but never stalls. My father says that since i dont have the stock cam but a Schneider 274F Cam, the idle will never remain as stable on any traffic. Ill give you a Little more of details of what my car has:

 L26 crank which makes my motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm
stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors
my block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear
that makes my motor a 2.627 liter motor, My E88 head from 1972 will give you about 8.7 to 1 compression.

Schneider 274F Camshaft, Pertronix electronic ignitor (no points), Pertronix 1.5 ohm flamethrower coil,

http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

Airtex 8012S 4.0 to 4.5 psi electronic fuel pump. Its really pusing 4 to 4.5 psi.

Just give me your opinión on the random rpm drop at idle. I also notice that as the rpm drops the ahmeter drops from 45. I have a 60 amp alternator.

Another "Old Timers" tip was to add ATF to the gas.  I think it was a half quart (pint).

4 hours ago, Galaxybj said:

Another "Old Timers" tip was to add ATF to the gas.  I think it was a half quart (pint).

 That might do the trick. Google says that motor oil boils at 572` F.

On ‎12‎/‎27‎/‎2016 at 2:11 PM, Mark Maras said:

 When you pop the hood, how long does it take for the idle to smooth out and is the temp gauge dropping as the idle improves? Did you bypass the stock fuel rail on the engine with a flexible fuel line yet?

 Assuming the plugs now look somewhat normal in color (tan-ish, tell us if they're not), What radiator and fan combo are you running? Specifically, the number of rows in the rad and if you're using a clutch fan, does it have much resistance in the clutch? On my first Z I found that a larger capacity rad (3 row) and a flex fan stopped my overheating problems on those blistering hot (100`+) days sitting on I-205 during rush? hour. Before that fix however, I found that shutting off the engine even briefly instead of idling would delay the overheating quite a bit longer (it always started with a click of the key) and on a few occasions I turned the heater and fan on high to help drop the engine temp. Not much fun in a Z with a black interior, no louvers and 100`+ heat but anything to save the engine, which it did.

 

Mark,

Fuel percolation still shows up this saturday. Got stucked on a traffic jam with my 11 year old daughter and the car suddenly shut off after presenting a lumpy idle. Fortunately i managed to crank the car. My daughter told me "daddy, is the battery damaged?" I guess its now time to bypass the stock fuel rail as the hotter NGK BP5ES are not helping that much!

 Be sure to give us an update. Hoping for success.

I dont see no other solution to this issue! i cant believe other members have kept their stock metal rail and have no fuel percolation trouble at idle on traffic.

3 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

I dont see no other solution to this issue! i cant believe other members have kept their stock metal rail and have no fuel percolation trouble at idle on traffic.

Jeff G told you that about a year ago.

Other members don't live as close to the equator...

Lack of Coriolis force?  Confused Coriolis effects maybe.  Too much laminar flow?

Summer's coming. Is it overheating ? If so, please don't install an oil cooler. Then we wouldn't be able to keep reading about the overheating problems.