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Front Seal Replacement


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I'm going to replace my front seal this weekend. The FSM is vague on this procedure. I took a look at the job last night and it looks like I need to do the following:

1. Remove radiator

2. Remove fan

3. Loosen pulley nut (put in 1st and engage the e-brake)

4. Remove alternator belt

5. Remove pulley with 6" puller

6. Remove seal

7. Clean surface and install new seal

8. Reassemble

A few questions:

- What'd I miss?

- What is the torque spec for the idler nut?

- Should I pack the seal in grease prior to installing?

- I don't have a seal driver. What can be used in it's place?

- How many beers should I have on hand?

Any advice would be appreciated.

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Crank pulley bolt torque is 116-130 ft-lbs

Seal goes in without a driver. Just tap in around the circumference with a rubber mallet.

No grease, other than engine oil on lip and pulley to ensure it slips on easy.

Biggest trick is look at polished surface on crank pulley where seal lip rides. Must be as clean, smooth and perfect as possible. If you current seal leaks, there is a reason, and it may not be just the seal, but the beat up rusty dirty pitted surface it rides on.

And no beer. Wait till it all runs again.

Jim

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I did this a couple of weeks ago. I built a custom pulley-puller so that I could leave the radiator in place. But pulling the radiator would have given a lot more room to work. Some additional thoughts:

  • If you use a Nissan factory seal, it comes with the seal area pre-lubed with grease, so no additional lubrication is needed. If the seal you use is not pre-lubed, a little oil or light grease is a very good idea.
  • Turn the engine to TDC before you pull the pulley off the crank nose. This will assist you in getting the keyway aligned with the woodruff key when you reassemble.
  • I strongly recommend having a new woodruff key on hand before you start. If the current key does want to stay in place well, replace it. Nissan part number is 00926-51600, list price is less than $1.
  • Be very careful to to get the key/keyway lined up properly, and that the key is firmly enough embedded that it won't move as you push the pulley over it. The pulley is cast iron, and therefore brittle. You don't want to do what I found the PO did to mine. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38293

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