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motorman7

Let's Paint it Yellow

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I spent most of the day stripping my silver '71 in prep for paint. I am figuring it will take about two or three weeks to get it ready ( Unfortunately that usually means four to six REAL week). I should be able to finish the part strip tomorrow (Friday) and then begin sanding and rust repair.

The one glitch I ran into was the front and rear glass removal. I was thinking I could get a glass company to come and remove them for me for about $40. Unfortunately, the first place I called wanted more than double that amount to remove the front and rear glass.:disappoin The second place said they don't work on old cars. So, I think I will read some of the treads here and try it myself. I think I can take the glass out, but will probably have to pay the price to have someone else install it when it's time to re-assemble.

Since the car is a "mutt" there is no need to paint it an official Z color. I was leaning toward the an original Z green, but have decided to go with a bright yellow (I was out voted). I am looking at painting it a yellow similar to the current 350Z or the PPG base yellow. I want a color that is bright and grabs attention. It should work well with the Panasports.

I am planning on doing the majority of the paint prep and then taking the Z to the paint shop. I am also planning on having Lance (jackboxxx) do the paint job up at the Maaco in Orange County.

I am hoping to get a little input here on the paint prep. I haven't had a car painted for quite some time. I am not sure that I want to take the car down to the bare metal, but I would at least like to get to the original primer at the least. Currently the car is an oxidized silver.

So, here are some pics of the teardown. i'll post more as the project progresses.

Rich

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I like the IROC Camero yellow from about 1995. I'll likely paint my ZT that color.

As for the glass, you will have to replace the gaskets anyway. On the front, using a straight blade knife/box cutter, remove the chrome trim and simply cut around the edge of the window through the gasket and take it out. Takes one guy about 5 minutes. Same with the rear window. I can't imagine you ever being able to save the gasket as it is going to be brittle. It looks to me like we are very similar in progress. I hope you can stick to your timeline, I can't even get close to mine.

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Painting with a colour change is a serious undertaking and you look as though you are going to give it a red hot go. What are your intentions with regard to the guards, interior floor and firewall, doors and engine bay? I am up for a colour change with one of my cars in the not too distant future and have conflicting recommendations from panel shops about how it might best be done with regard to the removal and stripping of doors and guards, whether or not to do the same colour through the wheel arches and the engine bay, stripping the full interior to paint the interior firewall, and even whether or not to pain with the windscreen and rear window mounted on the car or not despite the fact that ALL of the seals and rubbers will be replaced at the time!!

I personally think that the full body of the yellow DougN has on his car looks really special on the S30 - I think I remember him saying it was a Lamborghini yellow. However, we are only talking about the finer differences in shades of the same colour of the spectrum here and the final decision really comes down to a personal choice.

Look forward to seeing the final result here when you finish.

Edited by boyblunda
Additional comment.

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Thanks for the compliment Dave! My Z is actually PPG base yellow (lots of pics in my gallery Rich if you want to see how it will look when done) :)

Edited by DougN

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Thanks for the compliment Dave! My Z is actually PPG base yellow (lots of pics in my gallery Rich if you want to see how it will look when done) :)

Hi Doug,

Yes, I love that color! It looks great. That is the color I am looking for; not too orangey, not too pale.

As for painting the car a different color than the original, my plan is to just have painted the areas that are typically visible. So, the door jams, hatch area and engine bay will all be painted the same yellow. One of my pet peeves is an engine bay that doesn't match the car color. Plus, only takes about half a day to pop the engine out, so might as well take it out.

I am not sure what to do with the wheel wells. I painted the front ones a yellow spray can color as you can see in the pics.and not sure I like the look. I may revert it back to the black undercoating. Will have to look at some pics and see how that looks.

Thanks for the tips on the windshield with the razor knife. The gaskets leak, so they will be replaced. No harm cutting off the old one.

I will also have the trans serviced at this time and rebuild my brake master cylinder. Also need a new booster. So, lots to do. Ah, and of course re-zinc my bolts.

Thanks for the input

Rich

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Yellow ! you want to paint it Yellow? LOL

I painted my 240 yellow a long while back before it became popular. I chose Ford 2005 Cobra Screaming Yellow when it came out in 04. We shot it in 2 stage and used PPG paint. The yellow is vary close to Corvette yellow but not the same. I did a complete color change and you cannot find any of the original orange anywhere. Even if you lift the carpet.

Question. After going through this much work , why are you taking the car to Maaco? I recommend shooting epoxy primer after you are done with the metal work. Then when finished with the sanding of the sanding primer , sealing the whole surface with epoxy primer in WHITE because you are shooting such a light color. The reason to seal it is to treat any bare metal that you may have exposed while sanding and to also have the car all one color .

Gary

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Question. After going through this much work , why are you taking the car to Maaco?

Aaahh, but it's not just any Maaco, It's Lance at the Maaco in O.C. who will do the paint. Lance (aka Jackboxxx on the thread) comes highly recommended by a number of the members here, so I will have him do the work. He's done a number of Z's so I would be happy to have him do the paint. There is actually a Maaco about 3 blocks from my house, but I will trailer it about 60 miles to OC. I will feel better about it this way.

Also, since the car is a "mutt", I didn't feel it was cost effective to put a 5 or 10K paint job on. I will do the high end two stage Maaco though.

Thanks for the tip on the epoxy seal. I was using the light gray primer to cover the areas I sanded.

Attached are some pics of the progress today. Got the tranny pulled and the rest of the firewall stuff off. I tied some of the tubes to the center of the engine area to keep them out of the way of the painter. Also will bag and stow the harness. For now it's just resting on the battery tray. Got the left fender replaced. Massaged out a few small dings and started a bit of sanding.

I have some rust near the doglegs. I was thinking of brazing up the hole and grinding flush.

Rich

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My 77 is original Sunburst yellow. I thought about changing the color when I first got it. The more I looked at the color, the more I liked it! I began noticing the yellow cars on the road and saw alot that I didn't care for. Certain shades don't appeal to me. I have three shades on my short list right now. 2005 Nissan350z paint code E33. Very nice yellow with a touch of pearl in it. 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS , and my personal favorite so far, 2010 Dodge Challenger Detonator Yellow!

Can't wait to see your choice! Someone here posted this pic of a yellow Z that I liked so much I saved it as my desktop! Was it you?;)

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I am going weak at the knees looking at these beautiful yellow cars.

I do share the view that engine bays should match the external colour of the car with the possible exception that a black engine bay can be appropriate when viewed as part of the underneath of the vehicle.

With regard to the choice of whether or not to paint the same colour under the guards I think I would be influenced by the sort of roads I might be driving over. I cannot avoid driving on unsealed roads in my location and for my situation lean towards a colour that can be easily touched up and does not readily show stone chips. However, the cleaner single colour look would be my choice for a vehicle that is going to spend all of its life on sealed roads.

I can certainly see the sense in your philosophy that you put as much effort into the car and how far you go with a job as your investment warrants ie only painting the visible bits when not going all out with the expense.

It seems that you are fortunate to be able to be sure that you have the right person doing your work - nothing like strong personal recommendations from others to give you confidence about this part of your project.

All the best to you on the final product.

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My 110 red/orange 240 had a heavy and well done undercoating under the entire fender well area on all four corners. Heavy like a 1/4 inch. Well done as it covered every nook and cranny and not a flake has peeled off. The more I think about it, the more I like this. Unless you squat down and look, you don't see it at all, and since it is black, you don't see color through the wheels as a distraction. It beats doing all the prep work required for painting.

(Personal opinion....)

Love that yellow Z in the pic Chris posted. Notice the orange in the wheel on the rear? Wonder if that is a disc caliper or if the drum was painted orange. I'd like to know what color that was. It might be a bit much to have a yellow 280 parked next to a red/orange 240 though........ I just might risk it though;)

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Gary, if you painted your car yellow in 2004, then you're late to the party! Mine has been PPG base yellow since 1997 ;)

Looking foward to seeing more progress pics Rich, good luck!

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All of this "yellow" talk is bringing me down, guys. Knock it off! :cry:

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Hey Rich!

On those doglegs, I would recommend you cut out the entire panel and put in a new one versus brazing and grinding down. There's bound to be more rust behind there that isn't through yet. Don't want you to go to all the work of painting the car to have new bubbles form a year or so later. In fact, they might even form sooner when they wet sand down the car.

Try tabco for the replacement dog legs. Not very expensive and well worth not having to worry later.

Bob

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My painter insisted we change the doglegs "just to be sure". We used the ones from Black Dragon and he was very satisfied with the fit. They were about $54 each. It took about an hour on each side to remove and replace. You can see in the picture of one the amount of underseal that had been in place but you can see to the surface rust around the edges. There was no signs of rust on the outside however.

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Boy, this is slow going. Hours and hours of sanding. It's not bad, but it seems the more I work on this, the more I find stuff I don't like. There are quite a few dents on the underside of the panels where the PO placed the jack to change tires. Didn't catch those earlier.

I ended up replacing a section of the passenger side dogleg. Fortunately the PO also gave me the Tabco panels that he had puchased for the car, both right and left side. The drivers side was pretty clean. The passengers side was pretty bad. Again, worse than I had expected. My son helped out with sanding the engine bay while I tended to the doglegs and the jack dents.

I have most of the body dings fixed, but have not even started cleaning up the door jams and hatch are. That will be a chore. So, looks like I will miss my April 3 date to Maaco. Now shooting for the April 10. I opted to use the all metal body filler versus the regular bondo. Its pretty nice to work with and seems to dry harder.

Thanks for the input guys,

Rich

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Thought i might find a thread on this! :) Glad to see you were talked out of the green, i gotta agree, i think it will look sharp in yellow. Hope your enjoyin the work, there is a hell of a lot of it while your in the process, but lookin back it was a lot of fun. Good pick on the rust protectant, I used POR all over the car. Like 4 cans!

Well, as my father would say to me "Details, details, details." Take your time. Clear coat shows everything!

Hope to catch up with you soon, cool pics!

Frankie

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Boy, this is slow going. Hours and hours of sanding. It's not bad, but it seems the more I work on this, the more I find stuff I don't like.

Looks like your making good progress Rich, the car is looking great so far, all day long i get "those" people who think its a walk in the park to paint a car...its not as easy as it looks..

Dont put the car off till the 24th , I wont be here that Saturday! ;)

Lance

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Well, I finally got it off to the paint shop. I spent most of Thursday evening sanding; then most of Friday nite till 11PM....sanding. And then up again early today.....to sand some more before finally taking it to Lance's Maaco in OC. All the sanding was not complete, so I we figured some hours into the paint estimate to cover additional work that was needed. My next two weekends are booked, so it was now or a long while from now. Also, I felt it was time to let the professionals take over.

I want mention here, that not all Maaco's are equal . The one 3 blocks from my house was very business like (not so friendly) and somewhat pricey. The Maaco "Signature" paint job was $100 more by my house and the cost to paint the engine bay and door jams was way pricey. By comparison, Lance's shop was much more friendly and much more reasonably priced. It was well worth the 70 mile trip. I will take my '73 up there when it's time to paint that one.

I was in such a rush this AM to get to the shop that I forgot to take pics, so all I have is pics I took from a couple days ago. i will definitely take pics when I bring it back.

Taking out the windshield was a piece of cake. I cut the rubber gasket as discussed earlier here. The front one leaked and the rear was curling so they needed replacement anyway.

I decided on a "corvette yellow" at the shop (samll color swatches), but later today went looking at yellow cars and decided I liked the Camaro "Rally Yellow" instead. Actually it is more my sons choice as he will eventually get the car. I will call Lance Monday AM and get the color changed to "Rally Yellow"

So, I am glad that part is over. It's really a relief to have the car out of my 'dusty' garage and at the paint shop. I am looking forward to the new color and of course the assembly process.

Rich

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Next we wet sand the car and buff it out to make it more glossy :cool:

The fun part is going to be reassembly, watching it turn back into a

complete running vehicle ( least thats the part i like the best )

Checking reflection with an old gum wrapper off the ground.

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Quick shot after it rolled out of the booth..

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The fun part is going to be reassembly, watching it turn back into a

complete running vehicle ( least thats the part i like the best )

I'm hoping I can pick it up on Friday afternoon. That would give me most of the weekend to start putting it back together. My wife is gone for the weekend at a health seminar, so I can burn the midnight oil on this one for a couple days.

Checking reflection with an old gum wrapper off the ground.

The white truck in the back ground looks nice as well. LOL

Thanks for all the work on this Lance...It'll look awesome with the Panasports.

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Remember, when putting on componets like the headlight buckets, valance, bumper, etc, to make the fit loose, do the adjustments, then tighten down. It may take several attempts to get it straight and square. I've always heard a dollar bill is used in the reflection test. Good if you can read the numbers closest to the paint, better if you can read both sets of numbers, best if you can read an 8X10 sheet of FSM.

Bonzi Lon

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