Need some help...

[Sparx Macgyver]

Not a bad idea, AJ. Look into that after work.

[ajmcforester]

Not a bad idea, AJ. Look into that after work.

I did this with my first 240Z and my second one untill recently when I moved to an apartment with a 17'WX37'DX12'H garage.

When you look for a unit try to get one with an outlet or at least lighting. Also look at ones near switches or outlet receptacles outside. The outside receptacles can handle more power, because they are their for equipment they may need to run. If you get one were the switch is outside the unit you can get them to put a low power outlet inside (usually) if you tell them it's for a battery tender to keep the battery being dead or spilling acid on the ground (two things they would hate). About 15% of storage units will allow you to store cars, check what kind of insurance they have you might want to ad the unit to your renters insurance if they don't have coverage (we are only talking a couple more $ to cover the unit).

Now the unit will cost you more a month, but you would also qualify for collector car insurance. This is provided you own another car and you don't drive it to work. If you think your limited by mile with collector car insurance that is BS, some do but not all. They do however expect you to call and ad more miles if you decide to go over your expected limit. Go with a good collector car insurance you get what you pay for when you compare the collector car insurance to each other (I learned this the hard way). Their is more work to get setup with a collector car policy, but it is worth it, first it is cheap, I pay under $125 a year for a $15,000 value on the car. You get a agreed value so if the car is totaled you don't argue about how much you get paid, it is full coverage on the vehicle. Some companies like Hagertey lobby for collector car rights and have magazines and education materials available to their customers. That reminds me I need to call and have my vehicle policy changed since it wouldn't be on the road for about 6 moths do to restoration I get about 1/2 my money for not driving it.

[Sparx Macgyver]

An update.

Brakes are bled. No issues there.

Bled the clutch, fired it up, pressed the clutch, and nothing. Pedal was hard to press, so I pushed a bit more, got a "ka-klunk" type feeling and then pressure was gone. No pressure at all again. SO I turn it off, and looking at the bleeder valve, I thought maybe I didn't tighten it enough, so I bleed them again. Same results, pressure again. Ok, cool. So I try to start the car, and now it won't start.

I can hear something turning in the motor and I can hear the fuel pump, but it won't crank over.

So, now it's not cranking and no clutch pressure. Any ideas?

[ajmcforester]

Make sure the adjuster at the slave going to the bearing push rod is adjusted. If OK, see if any fluid leaked out of the slave or master cylinder. if that is OK take the slave unit out check to see if it is OK if so then check the master. The slave even though it is under the car is easier to remove than the master. My bet that the piston or seals are bad in the mater or slave and fluid is getting by. When you take it out check for any tears, cracks, or soft or hard spots on any of the seals. The slave cylinder is easy to replace and is more likely to weir out. The master is rebuild-able.

[Sparx Macgyver]

Ok, I'll look at those too.

If it matters, I'm loosing fluid somewhere. It's too dark to locate it tonight, but my MC just empties. Fluid goes somewhere, but I dunno where.

If it helps at all, after the "ka-klunk" feeling, while the car was running, I could place it in gear with no grinding at all.

Should also note my head lights work. Well, sort of. The drivers side is bright while the pass is dull. No change between high/low beams. Also, my turn signal switch is a bit touchy. After I switch from low to high to low again, I gotta wiggle it a bit, but the lights come on.

I should also mention, that when bleeding the brakes, the rear required some good amount of forcing, though allot of particles came out, and brake lines are now full of clean fresh fluid.

Edited February 3, 2010 by Sparx Macgyver

[Sparx Macgyver]

Make sure the adjuster at the slave going to the bearing push rod is adjusted. If OK, see if any fluid leaked out of the slave or master cylinder. if that is OK take the slave unit out check to see if it is OK if so then check the master. The slave even though it is under the car is easier to remove than the master. My bet that the piston or seals are bad in the mater or slave and fluid is getting by. When you take it out check for any tears, cracks, or soft or hard spots on any of the seals. The slave cylinder is easy to replace and is more likely to weir out. The master is rebuild-able.

How would I check the bearing push rod? I'm learning as I go..sorry.

I have a new slave cylinder already. I had bought one with the notion form the P.O. that it may be bad, so I picked one up (fairly cheap at my local auto parts place).

[Bonzi Lon]

Your 'ka-klunk' happened to me, same symptoms. Master is blown. And the fluid is leaking inside the cab. I was able to get the 2 day old carpet out of the way before being soaked. Hardest part was the clevis pin removal and install. I used a wire hook for removal and needle nose plyers for installation.

Bonzi Lon

[Sparx Macgyver]

Your 'ka-klunk' happened to me, same symptoms. Master is blown. And the fluid is leaking inside the cab. I was able to get the 2 day old carpet out of the way before being soaked. Hardest part was the clevis pin removal and install. I used a wire hook for removal and needle nose plyers for installation.

Bonzi Lon

Well, that's a let down. Though, it makes sense. The fluid is disappearing, and if it is leaking into the cab, that would explain where it went. OK, so I have a better idea of what to go looking at tomorrow.

Anybody have any idea about the motor? I don't understand it. It fired up, and then 15 min later, nada. She won't fire anymore. I thought maybe it was out of fuel (not really much in there) but it doesn't even crank at all.

[ajmcforester]

It sounds like a low fuel delivery problem, something may not be letting enough fuel in constantly

I know you replaced the filter, pump and fuel did you ever check the screens in the carbs? To do that on the float their is around thing that has a 90 that you hook the fuel to if you take the bolt off the end and pullit apart you will find some screens clean them out if they have a lot of stuff clean them to valve in the float also.

Try this as soon as it is about to stall squirt some gas in the float chamber and see if it keeps going if yes the it is a flow problem

[Sparx Macgyver]

How do you get the master to unhook from the bloody pedal assembly? I can't get the flipping thing to let go, so I can't remove the MC to remove/inspect/replace it? I can't seem to get it to come apart.

Meanwhile, I noticed a yellow wire not connected to the starter motor. Lovely. Connect it, still nothing. Just the whirring noise in the motor and the fuel pump hum. Went back, and inspected the wire. Turns out where the connector is on the wire (where it connects to the starter motor), the wire is cut. Well, maybe not cut, but it's not connected all the way. Would it be safe to cut off the wire and attach a fresh section of wire to it?

And the hunt continues to repair the car to road worthiness.

[ajmcforester]

Meanwhile' date=' I noticed a yellow wire not connected to the starter motor. Lovely. Connect it, still nothing. Just the whirring noise in the motor and the fuel pump hum. Went back, and inspected the wire. Turns out where the connector is on the wire (where it connects to the starter motor), the wire is cut. Well, maybe not cut, but it's not connected all the way. Would it be safe to cut off the wire and attach a fresh section of wire to it?

And the hunt continues to repair the car to road worthiness.[/quote']

That sounds like the starter is not engaging the flywheel. You might want to take the starter out and test it

[Sparx Macgyver]

The car came with a spare starter motor, so I'll take the one off the car, and the spare, to the auto parts place and let'em check'em both.

Still, what about the wire? can I just cut the old and put a new one in?