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Still won't run!! I need help..


newguy22

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Alright i have a 2/75 Datsun 280z i have owned for two years now and i have done alot of things to it i'll try to list most of the things that i have done to it

I have taken out the tank and cleaned it

Replaced the fuel filter

Installed new Injectors

New Fuel Pressure regulator

Checked Fuel Injection Harness

Sent in ECU

Replaced Fuel Injection Relay

and it still won't run there are probably a few things i didn't think of but if you ask i'll probably remember but the story is that it was running and i had replaced the transmission fluid and was test driving it around reving it testing the transmisson which is automatic and i parked it and was letting it run and my dad said it sounded like it was knocking so i went and parked it, it sat for about 30 mins then my dad went out to start it and it wouldn't start and hasn't since and since then we have replaced almost everything that we thought it could be, The car has a push button start for some reason when you turn the key all the way you can only hear the fuel pump turning on and sometimes it will turn over but it sounds like the starter isn't making full contact and just buzzes like its not getting enough juice, but the car started just fine before with the push button start

I recently was trying to figure out if it was fuel pressure or something else so i took off the fuel rail and left everything attached to the rail including the injectors when the harness was connected the injectors did nothing but if i hooked up a battery to them they sprayed just fine i don't know if they are supposed to spray when the car is turning over or not but i think it has to be something electrically wrong with the car because i have replaced or atleast checked everything else that it could be and it would be nice to have it running again thank you for taking your time to look at this and i would appreciate any ideas given

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It might sound stupid but have you checked your battery, if you have a charger then charge it over night, un attached to the car, then there should be in between 13.8 and 14.4 volt on it, try to measure the voltage again a few hours later and see if it is the same.

Chris

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"i think it has to be something electrically wrong with the car because i have replaced or atleast checked everything else that it could be"

"The car has a push button start for some reason when you turn the key all the way you can only hear the fuel pump turning on and sometimes it will turn over but it sounds like the starter isn't making full contact and just buzzes like its not getting enough juice, but the car started just fine before with the push button start"

I think you possibly answered your own question above. Eliminate that "Push Button Start" and put it back the way it originally was.

Edited by DatsunZsRule
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well i have a new battery only like two months old and it used to start just fine without the normal key starter and would run just fine and i have no idea what to do to fix that problem because all the wires are connected i have a new ignition on it with a new key and i don't know why its not making full contact when i turn the key to start sometimes it doesn't even at all

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There is some unclear information here. You say that you have installed a new ignition switch and all the wires are connected. What about the push button switch is this history? Another thing you charged the battery and you are sure it holds a charge , but the engine will not turn over , when you turn the key all the way to start? is this correct so far? to answer one of your questions , yes the injectors must fire in order to start the engine, so you must have fuel pressure when the key is turned to start, or if the push button is still being used. In that case the key must be in the run detent and then the starter button pushed.

You said the starter sounded like it wasn't making good contact. Do you mean the gear is clashing with the ring gear on the flywheel ? Or the Solenoid clicks and or buzzes but the starter does not engage or turn the engine over? Gary

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alright the deal with the push button start is there are two wires going straight to the battery and the starter the engine will turn over when i push the button sorry if i made that unclear but the engine will turn over but it when it did run i had to have the key in the run position and it would start just fine

the deal with the key is if you turn it all the way to start it does nothing sometimes it will sound like it is making an attempt to turn over and sounds like it is trying to make contact but just grinding like it would if the battery was low and it only does that sometimes but yes it buzzes and clicks but also makes the sound of it grinding on the flywheel

Also if i turn the key to start i can hear the fuel pump working and i tested it out with my dad a while ago and if i have the key in run and use the push button to start it the pump will work

sorry if anything was unclear i'm only 16 and working with the mechanical knowledge that i have my dad knows some stuff but not much

Edited by newguy22
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alright the deal with the push button start is there are two wires going straight to the battery and the starter the engine will turn over when i push the button sorry if i made that unclear but the engine will turn over but it when it did run i had to have the key in the run position and it would start just fine

the deal with the key is if you turn it all the way to start it does nothing sometimes it will sound like it is making an attempt to turn over and sounds like it is trying to make contact but just grinding like it would if the battery was low and it only does that sometimes but yes it buzzes and clicks but also makes the sound of it grinding on the flywheel

Also if i turn the key to start i can hear the fuel pump working and i tested it out with my dad a while ago and if i have the key in run and use the push button to start it the pump will work

sorry if anything was unclear i'm only 16 and working with the mechanical knowledge that i have my dad knows some stuff but not much

Ok, so it sounds like the starter gear isn't making contact with the flywheel (once worked on a Johnson outboard with the same issue).

Have someone watch the starter as you try to crank it over, my guess is the gear isn't making full contact with the flywheel, as you seem to be suggesting.

Check the battery terminals on the starter, if they're all crusty and corroded the starter probably isn't gonna have enough juice to crank over the engine.

If you still can't get that sucker to touch the flywheel and turn over the engine, remove the starter and rebuild it, or better yet, replace it, you can get one from CSK for $40.

You could also go the ghetto way and give the starter a few gentle taps with a wrench to see if you can unstick it.

Remember, this is just my best guess so far. That's all any of us can do.

Oh also, I know you said you checked fuel pressure on the rail, and that you tested the injectors with battery current... but have you checked the connectors for an injector pulse?

Edited by KDMatt
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alright the deal with the push button start is there are two wires going straight to the battery and the starter the engine will turn over when i push the button sorry if i made that unclear but the engine will turn over but it when it did run i had to have the key in the run position and it would start just fine

the deal with the key is if you turn it all the way to start it does nothing sometimes it will sound like it is making an attempt to turn over and sounds like it is trying to make contact but just grinding like it would if the battery was low and it only does that sometimes but yes it buzzes and clicks but also makes the sound of it grinding on the flywheel

Also if i turn the key to start i can hear the fuel pump working and i tested it out with my dad a while ago and if i have the key in run and use the push button to start it the pump will work

sorry if anything was unclear i'm only 16 and working with the mechanical knowledge that i have my dad knows some stuff but not much

Not looking to be the board police, and I know you're only 16, but I can't help at all, because I can't understand what you're writing. :stupid: You may have limited mechanical knowledge, which is fine, and that's why these guys are great, they can help. But try throwing in a period, some punctuation, form a sentence, and you'll get more help. I know you're writing in txt spk, but I think most of the people on this board are a little older, and speak actual English.

Sorry if I'm preaching. Going out to the garage to swap my 4 speed back in today.

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The best help you can give yourself is to download the "280Z Fuel Injectin Bible." Print it out, get it bound at the copy store, and read the whole thing (in sections) while you're working on the car. Spend time doing your schoolwork first; especially English class.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

The Atlant Z web site also has lots of useful tips: http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Edited by TomoHawk
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oh heck with it, i have spent to much time on this japanese engine crap i'll just rip it out and put a ford V8 or maybe a Chevy depends. it will probably be alot more cost effective then replacing all the original stuff in the long run and heck I'll have some more power and a nicer sound.

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Whoa relax take a breath.

Trust me we have all been fustrated at one time or another working on these cars and others, and one of the most fustrating problems to work on is wiring.

Before going radical, it might be best to go simple. The car is not new, and has wear. The wiring has been sitting, rubbing and transfering energy since before you were born. There is a short in the system. It sounds like it is in the ignition switch. A bad connection, rubbed through insulation, gunk, or maybe even a bad switch. Grounds are very important on fuel injected cars, if they are not getting correct voltage they dont run properly. It is very hard to make a fuel injection system run if the wiring is not in a stock configuration. Get the manual and a test meter and go through the system. The tools and process will be good for any car you ever own and work on. Start simple and work to the bigger problems. Prove the part is broken before replacing it, that will save you time, money and fustration.

There is nothing I have found personally or professionally as joyous and fustrating as working on an older car. I rant about it sometimes as well, check out my blog here to see my messes.

In the end I will get the car back on the road, with time and patience you will as well.

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