Ordering paint by the paint code

[TomoHawk]

Thnks a lot. I'll try that and see if it works.

thxZ

[mikewags]

Here's a photo of my rear cargo area (1975 280z) before I worked on it. As you can see, 2 tool-storage compartments and the wheel well (to fit a full size tire).

http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/?action=view&current=hatch2.jpg

Look into Sherwin Williams Automotive Paint branch. I was able to buy my original light metallic blue from them (#305) they carry all of the original Datsun paint codes: so you just have to give them your color code.

You can either buy it in paintcan or spraycan. I think a quart goes for about $45.00 - I bought 4 spraycan's, which was $12.00 per 16oz can.

Edited August 22, 2008 by mikewags

[TomoHawk]

It doesn't look any bigger than the well in my car, and I can't fit a full-size wheel in it... Are you sure about yours?

thxZ

[sblake01]

It doesn't look any bigger than the well in my car, and I can't fit a full-size wheel in it... Are you sure about yours?

thxZ

Like I said:

But, I hate to say this but sometimes giving an opinion in one of your threads makes me feel like I'm arguing with a sign!

[Carl Beck]

Just as an aside - The color codes that the manufactures use, along with the formula the paint supplier creates - that specifies the exact amount of which if their color tints are mixed - - - are originally based on the type of paint and type/quality of color tints that were current and specified when the cars were produced.

Even then - minute differences in the droplet size, dispensed by various color mixing machines could result in slight differences of the resulting shades of the same color. GM used to sell "Factory Packs" where they took the actual paint being sprayed at the factory that day or week - and packaged it up for later use if necessary by their Authorized Dealers -to fix transport damage etc. Buying the Factory Packs was the closest you'd ever get to the actual color the factory put on the car.

As paint systems, formula's, and base composition of materials used evolved over time - the paint manufacturers had to adjust their formulas, so that the newer technology paints and different color tints being used - could produce results as close as possible to the original colors - - they are close, but don't expect exact color matches to 20 or 30 year old paints, based on a formula that has been adjusted several times to account for several different types of paint.(fading, aging and environmental factors aside).

Today, using modern paint types - if you do want to get a close as possible to the original color on a 240-Z, I'd agree that using a panel with the original color for color matching is the way to go.

Keep in mind that what you see as "color" is reflected light - acrylic enamel from 30 years ago reflected light differently than todays base/clear systems, or todays single stage urethanes. They are just such different materials. The color matching systems look at the reflect light from the sample part, then using the modern color tints and considering the modern paint base - they create a formula that will get you as close as your going to get (if everything in the color matching system is up to spec. to begin with).

As mentioned above - PPG seems to have evolved and corrected their formulas over the years about as well as anyone could, but don't be surprised if the paint you actually get is two to four shades off..

As mentioned above - if your looking for a certain end result - you'll have to buy extra paint and spray several large test panels - then select the one that is closest to your expectations...

FWIW,

Carl B.

BTW - the 77/78 280Z had its rear chassis redesigned to reinforce it where necessary, to pass the required 10mph bumper standard, because the Federal Government would not give Nissan (or any other manufacture) another waver to the Standard, as they had in 1975. That resulted in additional strength in the rear frame rails, which required additional room under the rear deck - .. so they raised the metal floor and added the false interior floor to cover the spare..

from Aug. 76

85210-N4700 Comp-ShockAB rear bumper RH

85211-N4700 Comp-ShockAB rear bumper LH

Up to July 76

85210-N4200 Assy-Absorber Rear Bumper RH

85211-N4200 Assy-Absorber Rear Bumper LH

[TomoHawk]

I have some body-color paint that was made from scanning a part. If I mix up a little with the reducer (and no hardener) for some small spots, can you store that in a sealer container, or will it harden after a few days or weeks?

rhxZ

[geezer]

Ask the paint supplier who color matched the paint and sold it to you. They are the only ones who know the paint formulation and the expected shelf life.

[barth4567]

I went to the local NAPA store here in town and was looking for #110 Persimmon/Orange Red. I prefer to call it Orange. Took a while looking thru some old books but had no trouble getting the paint. Polyurethane enamel from Martin Senour paints. In my opinion only it is as good as PPG paint. It was about $440.00 a Gallon. However I got the paint. thinner,and catalyst for a whole lot less than that. I know somebody. I have to admit that the paint chip in the book looked a whole lot different ( more red) than the undersides of my tool box compartments. But it was a very old book. I am just saying the paint is available. I only wish it was Dupont Centari Enamel:D Just my two cents worth. John

[five&dime]

It is my honest opinion that you get what you pay for when it comes to paints. Probably the second most important part of a car restoration. Prep/bodywork being first of course. Just my $.02

[TRtom]

I bought touch up paint from these guys and it looks close. They also sell by the pint, quart and gallon

http://www.automotivetouchup.com

[five&dime]

Beautiful Z TRtom!!! Looks great with the rear spoiler and the panasports. Are those 15 or 16"s?

[TRtom]

They are 16" with Khumos. Handles great. Is that your 510? Wish I would have kept mine I had when I was in HS (1973). Cool car and really fun to drive.