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Suspension Problems


fixitman

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I need the advise of the forum's suspension experts to solve a driveshaft yoke/sway bar interference problem and high rear ride height problem. Perhaps the issues are interconnected. Background info follows.

Vehicle: Early '74 260Z

Sway Bars: Quickor, 1 1/8" front, 7/8" rear

Struts: Bilstein (early '80's series)

Springs: Stage 1 Euro, 54010-N3500 front, 55020-N3501 rear

Differential: R180 LSD

Per two forum members, stock ride height is 26 1/2" - 26 5/8" front and 25 5/8" - 25 3/4" rear, as measured from road to wheel well side of fender arch. The shop measured 26 7/8" front and 28 3/8" rear on my car. A few bits, like bumpers, spare tire and most of the interior plus a full tank of gas will add a little more weight and perhaps lower the ride height a little.

If I remember correctly, two springs came in without part numbers but I was told the color coding was correct. Is there anyway of knowing if the springs are correct for this car? Free length, number of coils, wire diameter?

Is it possible that the sway bar is installed upside down?

I would appreciate your input.

Thanks,

Fixitman

post-16252-14150803997408_thumb.jpg

post-16252-14150803997626_thumb.jpg

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I'd check the front diff mount as far as sway bar clearance is concerned. I probably wouldn't worry about ride height issues untill I had a all the parts back on and drove a few miles to allow things to settle. You may or may not have a problem there. The high ride height shouldn't be causing the rubbing. The bar should clear regardless of suspension position. On the road you could crest a small rise and top out the suspension and the bar should not rub.

Steve

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An anti-roll bar (ARB) should be installed so that there is no pre-load on the bar as the car sit levels on the ground with the driver in the car. Without seeing better pictures my guess is that the ARB is installed incorrectly. The ride height issue is probably more related to the car not being settled on its new suspension.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a thought, Is the bar installed upside down? In looking at the angle's on the bar, I had to ask.....

I noticed you asked that in your opening post. In looking at the angles from the bar to the end link, I think you nailed the problem. At full droop the bar will rotate but should not interfere with the drive shaft or front diff flange.

Edited by rxsleeper
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I think it's OK. The bend in the bar matches the body section it needs to clear.

My experience with upgraded anti-sway bars is that the bar is usually relocated to run behind the diff. The one I installed on my 260z came with new brackets to change the frame mounting location. If your aftermarket bar is too large compared to the factory bar, that could be where your problem is.

Edited by jtl260z
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My experience with upgraded anti-sway bars is that the bar is usually relocated to run behind the diff. The one I installed on my 260z came with new brackets to change the frame mounting location. If your aftermarket bar is too large compared to the factory bar, that could be where your problem is.

I've had both. On a late '73 I didn't have the body mounts and had to get a sway bar kit with it's own mounts. On an early '73 it had the factory mounts and I could use a bar made for the stock position. It's been a while since I've had those cars (20 and 10 years) so I could be wrong but I think the bars are different. Specific to the mounting scheme. A larger factory mount type bar reduces clearance just by the fact that it's a larger diameter but it should still clear. Tolerance variation can stack up and leave you with a less than desirable fit though.

Steve

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The attached photo shows the difference in spring height between a rear Euro Stage 1 spring and the stock factory springs. The Euro spring has 9 coils versus 11 for the stock spring.

Unless there's a good reason to use the Euro springs and a way of reducing the ride height at the same time, I'm thinking of powdercoating the original springs and reinstalling them.

There is a 3/8" - 1/2" height difference (about a coil wire diameter) between the front and rear stock springs. Does anyone know which end of the car gets the shorter and taller springs?

Thanks,

Fixitman

post-16252-14150804396444_thumb.jpg

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The attached photo shows the difference in spring height between a rear Euro Stage 1 spring and the stock factory springs. The Euro spring has 9 coils versus 11 for the stock spring.

Unless there's a good reason to use the Euro springs and a way of reducing the ride height at the same time, I'm thinking of powdercoating the original springs and reinstalling them.

There is a 3/8" - 1/2" height difference (about a coil wire diameter) between the front and rear stock springs. Does anyone know which end of the car gets the shorter and taller springs?

Thanks,

Fixitman

You do realize that the ride height numbers are for a stock 240Z (with all it's parts) on the tires it came with at the recommended tire pressure. They are good for the relative height difference between front and rear if you are looking for the stock "stance", but are just ballpark with any modifications. Was your suspension reinstalled properly. I am asking because the final tightening of all suspension pivots to the recommended torque should be done with the weight of the car on the wheels and at the ride height you a going for. Since you don't have that ride height I am assuming not. Are the Bilsteins gas charged? That can make a slight difference in ride height as the stock struts were not.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27517

highlight=springs

fourth post

Until you have a complete car that has been driven to settle the suspension and then recheck ride height you are chasing ghosts.

Nice car by the way.

Steve

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