240z - Hand Throttle - Need Help

[Mike B]

Filipe, I think I have a spare original throttle bracket around some place. I removed it from #881 when I parted it out before I scraped the car.

-Mike

[zpizzaman20]

Filipe,

I did not realize the pictures that I sent you were that poor.

The bracket is about 3 inches from the firewall and 1.5 inches from the blower box.

Fred

[240znz]

Best get the measurements of the underdash bracket from a LHD zed just in case they are different. Same probably goes for the cable as there could be differences as mine is a RHD. So for curiosity sake, here are the RHD measurements.

Cable outer length is 890mm from the end to end.

The inner has been cut off flush with the end so I have no idea how long it should be.

I'm interested in the difference between Marty's hand throttle lever slot. Both lever slots on mine are 60mm long. Where Marty's hand throttle lever slot is shorter than the choke. Less travels means less throttle travel means less revs compared to mine. If anything, I would have thought that US cars would have had the longer slot due to the colder winters where the hand throttle would be needed more. My car was imported to NZ from Aussie in 1974. It has a build date we estimate to be around 12/70.

Look closely at the side profile of the lever and you'll see that I have some work to build a new plastic (or is it bakelite) lever slider. Didn't see that before.

Marty, maybe I'll hook mine up for the hell of it just to see what it is like. But as for selling it, never. I've paid a fortune for all the parts (less D caps) this car was missing already and it's naked without them. Just after a steering wheel now, but ebay pricing is just silly, want to sell me yours?

[240znz]

Just compared side profiles with Marty's and you'll note a large difference.

I'm guessing that the nylock bolt applies friction to the lever to stop the carbs return springs from pushing it back to the off position. But in saying that, I doubt that the springs have enough tension to move the lever anyway. How does your work Marty?

Sorry to hijack your thread by the way. Anyone else got a lever assembly like mine?

[Marty Rogan]

Filipe:

Chris' (26th-Z) second picture shows the cable hold bracket that I, incorrectly, referred to as being part of the dash frame.

My car being an Automatic did NOT come originally with the Hand Throttle, however, I added it to mine and simply clamped the cable housing to the dash frame. That may be why my memory failed me.

Secondly, if you look at the first picture Marty posted, you'll see that the original Choke cable bracket is already fitted for the Hand Throttle. You can either use the shorter length lever or a Choke lever but on the right hand side pivot. The second shows the differences in the travel allowed to the Hand Throttle vs the Choke.

FWIW

E

I have always wondered if you could just add a second choke lever to the right side of a series 1 choke bracket to handle the throttle cable. Looks like it could work.

Marty

[Marty Rogan]

Marty, maybe I'll hook mine up for the hell of it just to see what it is like. But as for selling it, never. I've paid a fortune for all the parts (less D caps) this car was missing already and it's naked without them. Just after a steering wheel now, but ebay pricing is just silly, want to sell me yours?

Yeah, I have been less interested in EBAy lately as the pricing does not make sense anymore. There are very few bargains these days. Except of course, when I want to sell something, ! I just bought a steering wheel for my yellow car lately with Beandip's help. He help me locate an original metal cooling fan too. I am collecting the missing parts before they dry up. Once the car is retired from track duty, it will be treated to a restoration.

If I see a reasonably priced steering wheel around, I will keep you in mind. Do you need one with holes of no holes in the spokes?

Marty

[Marty Rogan]

Just compared side profiles with Marty's and you'll note a large difference.

I'm guessing that the nylock bolt applies friction to the lever to stop the carbs return springs from pushing it back to the off position. But in saying that, I doubt that the springs have enough tension to move the lever anyway. How does your work Marty?

Sorry to hijack your thread by the way. Anyone else got a lever assembly like mine?

Those return springs don't have enough pressure to affect the thottle lever. You just pull it back and it stays where you put it. Works great!

Marty

[FilipeA]

Hi

Thank You everyone, but still missing the measures of the metal bracket ?!!!

Fil

[EScanlon]

Filipe:

Are you saying you do NOT have a Choke Lever Bracket at all?

E

[EScanlon]

Marty:

As far as using a Choke Lever for the Hand throttle, I erred there may be a problem with the pull angle on the cable. If you can correct for that, it would work.

Take a look at the middle pic of post #4 (yours), and at the first pic in James' (240Znz). Look closely at the lineup between the lever slot and the centerline of the cable sheath. (Interestingly both of them have the Hand Throttle on the right, even though James' would presumably be for a RHD car.) You'll note that there is a distinct off-set to the cable centerline and the lever. In my haste to post, I neglected to point this out.

Unfortunately you can't invert the choke lever either unless you were willing to have it act completely in reverse of the way it acts now, that is, you push it forward to actuate the Hand Throttle....talk about making it even MORE dangerous than it already is!

The Hand Throttle only pulls on the Accelerator Pedal, and that friction fit does help to hold it in place, but it isn't overworked as you mentioned.

E

[Marty Rogan]

Marty:

As far as using a Choke Lever for the Hand throttle, I erred there may be a problem with the pull angle on the cable. If you can correct for that, it would work.

Take a look at the middle pic of post #4 (yours), and at the first pic in James' (240Znz). Look closely at the lineup between the lever slot and the centerline of the cable sheath. (Interestingly both of them have the Hand Throttle on the right, even though James' would presumably be for a RHD car.) You'll note that there is a distinct off-set to the cable centerline and the lever. In my haste to post, I neglected to point this out.

Unfortunately you can't invert the choke lever either unless you were willing to have it act completely in reverse of the way it acts now, that is, you push it forward to actuate the Hand Throttle....talk about making it even MORE dangerous than it already is!

The Hand Throttle only pulls on the Accelerator Pedal, and that friction fit does help to hold it in place, but it isn't overworked as you mentioned.

E

I see what you mean about the offset from the centerline of the lever. I have an extra series 1 choke assembly that I will have to pull out and look at again. I think what stopped me the last time I looked was how to attach the cable to the lever.

Jame's lever looks like the choke lever, but has an extra slot that it rides in. Interesting to see the differences.

Marty

[240znz]

Enrique,

My take on why Nissan put the hand throttle on the right was because as both HS and HLS versions have the carbs on the left, therefore the choke cables had to exit the firewall on the left. There couldn't a good arguement to have two choke and one hand throttle cables crossing over each other in the HS30. Or, maybe as the accelerator pedal is on the right, so it makes logical sense to have the hand throttle lever on the same side.

I had a look in your gallery and noted that your hand throttle slot is only half that of the choke (same as Marty's). All HS30 that I have seen in NZ that have hand throttles are full length like mine. Hmmm, I wonder why the change.

Marty,

My parts car has a wheel with holes, if I can find a one without holes for a good price I'd jump at it. However, I just may end up welding a formed plate into the back of each spoke, fill, sand and paint to make it look like it's real. But as parts of the car aren't stock, I'm not so hell bent on getting every last thing perfect. Just nice to have it close as to what it came out as with a few good idea mods.

The side on photo I took above shows the friction plate. There's an identical one on the other side of the lever. There is a bolt that runs through the lever (which is split) and is fastened by the nylock. It's that bolt-nut tension that must overcome the pedal return spring to hold the pedal.