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Performance Distributor


kcoke

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I have a 1971 Datsun 240z with the L24 block and I want a performance distributor. It currently has the orginial distributor on it. I set the timing on the damn thing and it still pings on me......I want to upgrade it....I looked at the Zstore.com. They were all really expensive.........any ideas where to get one for a good price.......and which one is going to do the best job

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Ebay has an E12-80 distributor for 41.00 bid. I think it ends on the 21st. He does'nt say how much shipping is though.

It was the best, low cost upgrade I ever did to my 70' 240Z.

I now have the Mallory Unilite Dist. And I have an MSD 6A with Mallory Promaster coil. And of course I have the MSD tach adaptor.

I say do the 79' ZX dizzy. Best for the money.

Dave.

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I picked up a VARY good ZX dist from a '81 a week or so ago for $25.00 at the u-pull-it. the new Distributor will not cure the car from pinging if you set the timing to far advanced. Just like what is causing the problem , most likely, now. The ZX unit is a great mod for your Z. I have been running one in my 240 since 2001. Gary:pirate:

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The other thing to check on any used distributor is the condition of the shaft bushings or bearings. If the shaft moves side to side you won't get stable spark timing.

Another piece is that you should definitely bypass the ballast resistor when you convert. It is a good idea to use a new coil designed for electronic ignition to provide a hotter spark. And once you get the hotter spark, increase the plug gap to .040-.045".

I also agree with Gary's post - simply replacing the distributor is not going to cure the pining. Pinging is not caused by a "bad" distributor, nor will it be cured by a "good" distributor. Pinging is pre-ignition. Typical causes are timing too advanced, lean mixtures, carbon build-up in the chambers, wrong heat range plugs, etc. The only way replacing the distributor could help is if the cause is wrong timing and the replacement distributor is timed correctly after installation.

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That's what I love about the Unilite, Even if the bearings get wobbly, there is NO gap or dwell to worry about. The infrared LED's allow it to either make or break the contact. No 2 ways about it.

Optics rule,

Dave.

P.S. Having the Mallory Promaster coil with the MSD 6A and the Unilite distributor allows me to expand my spark plug gap to .065 instead of the typical .032 . This set-up shoots a bolt of lightning. I screwed up by having my key to the "ON" position when I plugged in the Distributor once, It shot a stream of lightning 7" away and into my arm, that was obviously TOO CLOSE to the coil. I did'nt have the coil wire on so it was free to go where ever and ended up trying to give me a fricken Heart attack. I thought someone had shot me.

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  • 11 months later...

I have a 72 240z with an L28, Performance Cam, not sure which one though.

N42 head, ceramic coated header into 3" pipe, Has 240z distributor with eletric conversion, MSD Blaster 2 coil Has NGK Iridium Spark Plugs gapped to .045" I Just put on tripple webber 45's which don't have any provision for the vacume advance on the dist. I know MSA offers a Mallory unilite dist. But I really don't wan't to spend another $600-700 I am wondering if there are any other Fully mechanical distributors that would work, or if it is possible to modify the 240z dist. to a full centrifual advance.

Can any body help me?

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If you want precision, heavy duty, solid performance, get a Mallory. They make them with the Unilite module and with dual points, with and without the vacume can. Triple owners can use the non vacume. The dual point ones are cheaper and you can find them on Ebay for a good price. I got a new one for $120 last year. You can also set them up with a Pertronix module. They have both Pertronix 1 and 2 for the Mallorys. My feeling is the Unilite can (if you get an electrical spike) blow out and a magnet can't. I ran a Pertronix 1 on a Chevy truck for 6 years and never had to open the cap. I did replace the cap 1 time but never had a problem with the module.

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  • 4 weeks later...
That's what I love about the Unilite, Even if the bearings get wobbly, there is NO gap or dwell to worry about. The infrared LED's allow it to either make or break the contact. No 2 ways about it.

Optics rule,

Dave.

P.S. Having the Mallory Promaster coil with the MSD 6A and the Unilite distributor allows me to expand my spark plug gap to .065 instead of the typical .032 . This set-up shoots a bolt of lightning. I screwed up by having my key to the "ON" position when I plugged in the Distributor once, It shot a stream of lightning 7" away and into my arm, that was obviously TOO CLOSE to the coil. I did'nt have the coil wire on so it was free to go where ever and ended up trying to give me a fricken Heart attack. I thought someone had shot me.

Hi Dave, I found this older thread from a while back and have a question.

I am debating on whether to add an MSD 6A CD unit to my current Ignition and Distributor setup. I've got the Mallory Unilite Breakerless Distributor with a Mallory Unilite Promaster Coil & 700 Ballast resistor hooked up such that my Stock Tach on the 240z works fine. I used this installation recommendation from Carl Beck : http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/UniLiteWire.jpg

and it works terrific.

My question and any advice from other experts as well needed is:

1) Would the MSD 6A 6200 series make much difference on overall performance and starting?

2) How would I install the MSD 6A 6200 series given the setup I have so my stock tach will still function properly?

Many thanks and I welcome advice,

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To question #1 -- YES!!! Easier starting, better fuel economy, more power at higher RPM's. Or at least that's what I've experienced.

To question #2 -- Unfortunately, the MSD 6A will need to be coupled with the MSD Tach Adaptor, Part # 8910? I think. -or- 8910EIS (electronic ignition system) they run under $30. Easy install with instructions.

your Mallories green trigger wire goes to the MSD's white trigger wire. Big red to battery, big black to closest ground, small black and orange to the Promaster coil. small red to keyed ignition wire (Usually the same wire that the Unilite is powered with as long as it's a 12 volt keyed source)

I can't remember the rest but I know it's on this site somewhere as well as HybridZ. I can't be the only other one with this set-up. If yu can't find it, let me know, I'll go look at the car and try and make a diagram for ya, but look around here first.

Dave.

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