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Finally - My Z Arrives


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WOW !! It really looks original. It is always good to see one that original. I have the same hybrid '72 (12/71-HLS58865) with the non retractable seat belts and vertical lines. I don't want to restart a thread on the oil caps but which one do you have on this one. I have the OIL one.

Also I just swapped my dash that has only one easily repairable crack in it but I got a perfect one this summer and couldn't resist buying it. I also have a center console without a crack but you have to fit a metal plate underneath to hold the choke mecanism. I did the same with the one installed on mine and it is the best solution. If you're interested, give me a reply. I think I also have a perfect dome ligth.

Hey Frank! How's things in Canada, eh? Mine is the OIL cap too.

You've got my attention on all of the above items. If you could PM me with more info that would be great. Being that this is my first Z and I've yet to tear it apart yet, why does there need to be a metal bracket fabricated? I'm capable of the fabrication - just curious as to why.

Nate

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I've got some issues.

Under deceleration I notice quite a bit of whining coming from the rear. That typical sound you get while backing up in most M/T cars. Do ya'll think it's the Diff? I'm wanting to drain the Diff fluid, How do I fill it back up? Do I need to drop the whole rear end? I also need to replace the U joints on the drive shaft, the axles seem alright though.

I have a noise that seems to be coming from the left rear... pretty sure this is a worn out strut, when I make a left turn and the weight is unloaded from that side the noise goes away.

She HATES to get cranked up when cold. After being driven shut off and then cranked back up shes fine. I plan on doing a complete tune-up in the next couple of weeks, but I feel this is a carb problem. I also need to adjust the choke, right now I have to pull it all the way back and hold it, other wise I'll be out there longer trying to get her started.

Door seals... Hatch seal... hood/cowl seal... I could keep going, maybe later.

But still, driving the Z is like nothing else on earth. Simple and Amazing! I love her! I grin from ear to ear just seeing it. And whether I want it or not she attracts plenty of attention.

Nate

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The bracket is made up because originally the choke mechanism is mounted directly to the plastic console, meaning a few years of use and abuse cracks and destroys the console around the area, by making up a little metal bracket the choke can then be mounted directly onto the transmission tunnel meaning that the centre console has none of the stress as you pull up/push down the choke lever and should last forever.

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I've got some issues.

Under deceleration I notice quite a bit of whining coming from the rear. That typical sound you get while backing up in most M/T cars. Do ya'll think it's the Diff? I'm wanting to drain the Diff fluid, How do I fill it back up? Do I need to drop the whole rear end? I also need to replace the U joints on the drive shaft, the axles seem alright though.

I have a noise that seems to be coming from the left rear... pretty sure this is a worn out strut, when I make a left turn and the weight is unloaded from that side the noise goes away.

She HATES to get cranked up when cold. After being driven shut off and then cranked back up shes fine. I plan on doing a complete tune-up in the next couple of weeks, but I feel this is a carb problem. I also need to adjust the choke, right now I have to pull it all the way back and hold it, other wise I'll be out there longer trying to get her started.

Door seals... Hatch seal... hood/cowl seal... I could keep going, maybe later.

But still, driving the Z is like nothing else on earth. Simple and Amazing! I love her! I grin from ear to ear just seeing it. And whether I want it or not she attracts plenty of attention.

Nate

Nate:

On the back cover of the diff, there is a filler plug. It can be a little difficult to get to, but you can do it.

If your driveshaft needs new U-Joints, don't wait too long. The original owner of my car had the front U-Joint fail and the d/s bounced all over the tunnel of the chassis before he could get stopped. Not a pretty sight.

What kind of noise is coming from the left rear?

Choke adjustment is easy. Loosen screws where choke cable attach to carb linkage, adjust linkage to remove slack (**Make sure the choke lever is pushed fully forward when doing this!), and retighten screws to secure cables.

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Noise from the left rear sounds a bit like a rock stuck in tire, with the sound speeding up as the tire rotation increases and vise versa. If I make a left and the weight transfers to the right side of the car the sound stops until the car levels back out again. The day I brought her home my friend was following me and said that the left rear tire was moving up and down quite a bit as I drove. I figure its the strut and I'll just replace them and be done with it. I'm thinking KYB's.

Nate

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Noise from the left rear sounds a bit like a rock stuck in tire, with the sound speeding up as the tire rotation increases and vise versa. If I make a left and the weight transfers to the right side of the car the sound stops until the car levels back out again. The day I brought her home my friend was following me and said that the left rear tire was moving up and down quite a bit as I drove. I figure its the strut and I'll just replace them and be done with it. I'm thinking KYB's.

Nate

Well your noise may come from the inner or outer bearing (a mess to replace..). If the car had been parked for a while they sometimes dry and worn very rapidly.

Concerning the choke plate, unless you have a brand new console, the plastic is not strong enough to last very long. For my part I made a metal plate (aluminum) that I'd fitted underneath the console and then I attached the choke lever after it. It completly invisible and works great.

Concerning the weather in Montreal, very few snow but butt freezing temp for two weeks (under 0 F). Not a weather to put a Z outside !!

I can send you pics of thing I have if you want.

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Well your noise may come from the inner or outer bearing (a mess to replace..). If the car had been parked for a while they sometimes dry and worn very rapidly.

I can send you pics of thing I have if you want.

Frank,

My previous experience with worn bearings is that they tend to make a "whiring" noise where as mine is more of a "clicking" sound. I do plan on replacing all the wheel bearings soon but I think I will try the struts first.

Pics would be great. You can either post them here or just PM me if you like.

Try to stay warm :)

Nate

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Nice car !!!!! If I can ask ??? How much did you pay for it !!! Good luck and take good care of it !!!!!!!!

$5000. And I had to buy it sight unseen too. It was very nerve racking waiting for it since I had to wait two weeks for it to get here! If I had been out there I would have probably paid a little less, but I am very happy with the price I paid. I got a nice, very original, unmolested 240. The only 240's I've found out here were only a 240 shell with a L28 and/or completely rusted out. This one has a few small rust spots, but the floor pans and battery tray look solid. It is missing all the badges except the hood ornament, though. Original owner and nearly 300,000 miles... a combination that shows he loved the car enough to keep up with it. He had his reasons for letting her go and was happy that she was going to someone that wanted to keep her classic, ie: no body kits, V8, or stickers. I love her and hope to keep her forever!

Nate

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Congratulations on your purchase, I wish you a long and enjoyable ride.

Do yourself and your car a HUGE favor.

Get to know each other FIRST, before you go chasing after moonbeams.

This may sound cliche, or even corny, but there are so many posts about people getting their car and within a very short span of time, are suddenly beset with a car that SUDDENLY needs several $hundred$ spent on it. Believe me, a car that is in the condition the pictures show SHOULD be ....at least,,, driveable. If so, then DRIVE IT!

(Of course, I'm presuming that you've already done the basic "receiving prepwork", i.e. the oil, air, gas, tires etc, so you KNOW that it will drive.)

Find out the best way to start it, full choke is not unusual on a cold start. That you have to hold the choke cable tells me that the friction on the screw for the choke handle is set too loose. Once you have that down, then take her out and enjoy.

However, please AVOID getting over-eager with the "repairs". Yes, you'll get to them, BUT not all at once, nor right now. Start by running the car, finding out what she will and will not do G E N T L Y.

Unless you know that the prior owner RAN the car as opposed to just operate it, I wouldn't go in and essentially STRESS the car in manners that it hasn't been stressed in YEARS. That's what causes things to BREAK.

So, first drive it like a bit of a museum piece, which she is. Then start doing the obvious FIXES, starting with any safety or mechanical issues, but avoid deciding that the car needs a tune-up just because you JUST bought the car. How do you know that the car NEEDS a tune-up?

Too many times that's what happens to a lot of new Z owners, they do the proverbial "tune-up", only to find themselves with a disassembled engine, with the body shell up on a rotisserie, and new weatherstripping coming in from the left moon of Pluto in just a few "tune-up" sessions.

I'll guarantee that you'll come to know the little lady within a short span of time and then any tune-ups you do will be ACTUAL tune-ups and not unnecessary repairs that further stress and cause more repairs.

2¢

Enrique

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