Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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It seems to me like there is way too much force required to push up my carb plungers. How hard should it be to push? On my motorcycle its way easier to push up. My car has initially good power when the throttle is cracked by then doesn't want to go, like the throttle isn't open. I think it might be the plungers going up and letting enough air in.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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What's the difference? My '72 currently has 3-screw SU's on its L28, and the second engine I have (F54/P90) has 4-screw SU's on it. Oh, and I'm referring to the number of screws holding the domes in place.
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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Ok i got this box with my Z when i purchased it last fall. I suppose it contains all (?) of the parts needed in 240z carbs. Needles are bent, but there's 2 new ones. I was wondering is there all the parts needed? And what might be value of these? In what price Ztherapy rebuilds this to new glory? I gotta check is there anyone here in Finland who rebuilds old SU carbs..
Last reply by zKars, -
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Found this while trolling CL tonight. Not sure if anyone is interested. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/pts/1662792468.html John
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
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So I filled the tank full for the first time after discovering the level sender has a problem when the car ran outta fuel while still reading nearly full. Previous owner had the tank hot tanked n new lines fitted including the filler neck, but the sender seal is original. It leaks badly, it's a steady stream of fuel that I traced with a flashlight to that seal. It looks like I can replace this seal with the tank still in the car if I pull the right rear wheel - is this a fair assessment, or should I gear up for dropping the tank? Also, is this seal still available, or should I plan on making a gasket?
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
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My '73 240z has a 2.8L engine, a Clifford intake manifold, and an Eldelbrock 1406 4bbl carb. Up until last weekend, it ran like a dream. Then I had a very rough time getting it started (although it would start and run on ether). By enriching the idle needles, it would start and idle well but it doesn't want to run above about 2,000 RPM. It doesn't much like throttle blipping either. I changed the gas line filter (this had been a problem before) and this changed nothing. I checked the fuel pressure (Eldelbrock electric pump) and I was getting 6psi. Since the car is only run about once a month and its a long time between tankfulls, I'm fearful of bad gas or junk clog…
Last reply by draztik280, -
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Ok, this has obviously been discussed more than 10K times but this is what these forums are for, right? I started my 72 first time for 5 months. It's in warmed garage so climate should be out of question. First it didnt want to give gasoline to carbs, so i open the valve cover and manually pumped fuel pump so that i could see it flowing through filter. After that it started, very roughly but after giving some pedal to the metal, it started to run with all 6 cylinders. In fall, when i make the first start, it didnt cough no matter how much you rammed it but now it seems to cough if you press too fast too hard. Front carb seems to be working alright but the rear one is sq…
Last reply by buysell, -
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Has anyone here installed these? I'd be curious to know how they perform on a Z. http://www.v-performance.com/products/air_fuel.html Thanks.
Last reply by Marty Rogan, -
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When I upgraded my brakes, I switched to a 280ZX master brake cylinder with the bleed nipples on the engine side. When removing the air cleaner, the forward bleed nipple keeps scratching the paint on my air cleaner cover. My solution is to move the carbs inward 0.35" by machining down the carb spacers. (see attached pic of original spacer next to thinner spacer.). This should provide adequate clearance for the air cleaner. This week I'll do a gasket drawing and use the laser at work to cut some new gaskets. (Yes, it's a cool toy...). * If you try this, be aware that machining phenolic can create toxic dust, so use a vacuum to carry-away the fines generated during…
Last reply by Inf, -
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I've come across some NOS fuel pumps over here, part# dont say me anything and the seller only know they are for Datsuns. My car is more than a hour from me, so can one of you that have a spare, take some measurements for me, i like the distance from center to center of the mounting holes and also length of arm. Thanks Chris
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
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This may be repetitive - but I've spent a lot of time researching and playing with the SU/Hitachi carbs – in my case three screw round tops. Here are some statements mostly about mixture that I’d like some feedback on - I think are all true, but please correct me if I’m wrong. 1. The rough setting for fuel mixture is the float level. 2. The fine setting for fuel mixture is the nozzle height adjustment screw. 3. The fuel level in the float bowl needs to be high enough to ensure adequate fuel supply at full load, but low enough to ensure that flooding will not occur. (approx. 23mm from the top of the float bowl) 4. If the fuel level is at the lower end of the a…
Last reply by tlorber, -
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Forty years is a long life for the plastic fittings that fit around the balls on carb linkages and such. :mad: Mine are still in "decent" shape, but being made by the hand of man, are subject to failure at any time. Does anyone have a source for these little white plastic heim-joint type thingy-bobs?
Last reply by Headstrong280z,
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